RC10B4.1 FT/WC
07-23-2012, 10:03 AM
Ok.... So I should get my b4 wc this week. I have my B4 non wc setup pretty well. The main difference in the new car will be the +8 chassis. What tuning changes should I expect from my current B4 baseline setup? Will I need more forward weight? I have heard the +8 pushes more, is that what I will need to overcome? I will tell you what my current setup is off the top of my head.
Front:
1mm under front stud. 2 spacers under ball stud
2mm bump steer
30 deg caster
30 wt oil
middle top inside bottom shocks with 2 limiters inside. Tower inner/arm outer
#2 piston
alum avid rack
inside on hub inside on tower.
Brown springs AE
rear
inside top and inside bottom on the shock. tower inner/arm outer
25 wt oil 27.5wt
#1 piston.#2 piston 2 limiters
middle on hub and inside on the hub. with 1mm under the stud and the "A" hub.
1 oz under the tower
1/4 in each rear triangle, 1/2 oz next to receiver
Batteries middle with 1/2 pad on each end.
-1 deg camber
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe in (i think)
silver springs AE Would run green AE, I run Losi BB
Hubs forward Middle
.5 alum hubs
Front:
1mm under front stud. 2 spacers under ball stud
2mm bump steer
30 deg caster
30 wt oil
middle top inside bottom shocks with 2 limiters inside. Tower inner/arm outer
#2 piston
alum avid rack
inside on hub inside on tower.
Brown springs AE
rear
inside top and inside bottom on the shock. tower inner/arm outer
25 wt oil 27.5wt
#1 piston.#2 piston 2 limiters
middle on hub and inside on the hub. with 1mm under the stud and the "A" hub.
1 oz under the tower
1/4 in each rear triangle, 1/2 oz next to receiver
Batteries middle with 1/2 pad on each end.
-1 deg camber
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe in (i think)
silver springs AE Would run green AE, I run Losi BB
Hubs forward Middle
.5 alum hubs
Bold are what my Buggy has done. It handle very well at 1H and W3
07-23-2012, 10:10 AM
yeah, that sounds reasonable. I tried hubs middle with my Non WC and it just didnt feel as stuck. Hard to describe, but the +8 mm, with the hubs middle i where I will start. I will also be running the Losi BB springs. Still undecided on the spring rates yet. Thinking orange front and yellow rear. I am running on an outside 1/8 scale track. Most of the jumps are reasonable. I would mainly need my damping for the uneven surface, as the raid has eroded the track a little. I was able to get on the gas pretty god between corners with out too much bouncy, but on a few of the jumps, if I miss the downside, I think my rear is slapping hard and causing a spin out. Yes, I know I need to downside all the landings, but I am no pro, lol. I over shoot sometimes.
07-23-2012, 10:17 AM
Going with the 0 hub your buggy wil rotate a bit better. Also with placing the rear shocks on the inner hole on arm it will absorb bumps better, if you haber the 8mm chassis it allah a tad more than standard length, but persuade on the rear arms with shocks our will have even more grip
07-23-2012, 10:25 AM
so I'm running 1 washer on the tower ball stud,if i run to does it make it not so aggressive?does it cause a push?or having one washer makes it push more?
07-23-2012, 10:31 AM
more washers = more forgiving. Less washers = more aggressive.
07-23-2012, 10:36 AM
So you are saying the +8 chassis increases rear bite over the standard chassis?
07-23-2012, 10:52 AM
07-23-2012, 10:55 AM
If you remove a washer it will turn a bit bette, two washers would be a noticeable difference. But washers are for minor adjustments, for bigger changes u adjust shock oils and springs, and shock locations
07-23-2012, 10:57 AM
I thought the shims were basically like small rod length adjustments, as opposed to making the link longer via holes, you shim it for a small change. no?
07-23-2012, 10:57 AM
Wildcat do u race with jbone?
07-23-2012, 11:00 AM
yeah, that sounds reasonable. I tried hubs middle with my Non WC and it just didnt feel as stuck. Hard to describe, but the +8 mm, with the hubs middle i where I will start. I will also be running the Losi BB springs. Still undecided on the spring rates yet. Thinking orange front and yellow rear. I am running on an outside 1/8 scale track. Most of the jumps are reasonable. I would mainly need my damping for the uneven surface, as the raid has eroded the track a little. I was able to get on the gas pretty god between corners with out too much bouncy, but on a few of the jumps, if I miss the downside, I think my rear is slapping hard and causing a spin out. Yes, I know I need to downside all the landings, but I am no pro, lol. I over shoot sometimes.
I run Red front and Yellow rear.
But I may be switching to Kyosho today
07-23-2012, 11:20 AM
adding washers in the rear put more pressure between your tire and the track giving you more bight...
I think the washers effect the car the most for me...shocks also...
lot of your setup is the tire.
I race with some of the best guys on the east coast, I think this info is pretty spot on bc I felt this a lot on my car
07-23-2012, 11:30 AM
Taking the washer away in the rear gives more bite. I have shaved all of my ubraces on b4, t4, and sc,10 and added the c hubs. All this do is lower the links and in return give more bite. When u shave the u brace u auto take away 2mm and on the truck a lot of ae guys are not running a washer at all the the sc rear. I take that theory to all my cars and it hasd help in traction a lot. The same effect goes with the front. More washers is less traction up front which is less steering and vise versa
07-23-2012, 11:57 AM
07-23-2012, 12:04 PM
Taking the washer away in the rear gives more bite. I have shaved all of my ubraces on b4, t4, and sc,10 and added the c hubs. All this do is lower the links and in return give more bite. When u shave the u brace u auto take away 2mm and on the truck a lot of ae guys are not running a washer at all the the sc rear. I take that theory to all my cars and it hasd help in traction a lot. The same effect goes with the front. More washers is less traction up front which is less steering and vise versa
lowering the WHOLE link gives you more bite but its totally different from what i explained before