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Old 07-22-2012, 08:04 PM
  #17011  
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Originally Posted by PFKAOG
That is a great, fast setup
thanks for the feedback, your the first person to give me something good. thanks
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:17 PM
  #17012  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
whats everyone running for caster blocks,2 hole or 3 hole?
You need to come back down and take my buggy for a few laps.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:22 PM
  #17013  
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Since a few people in here run reedy sonic. My sonic stopped working a few weeks ago. I unplugged the sensor and it would work. I tired 4 sensor cables, none worked. So before I bought a new sensor board, I thought i would open it up, blow it out and just give it a once over. When I was putting it back together, I realized I had no idea how to put it to zero degrees. Then I noticed that the ">" that I think points to the timing value was 180deg away from the timing notches. I loosened the Philips screw, removed the black sensor cap and peeked inside, it looked ok I guess, so i put it back on, and rotated it till it pointed to the timing notches. put it together and gave it a little throttle. And it worked with my sensor cable. Is it possible the timing pointer got loose and moved and cause the motor to not work with the sensor cable plugged in? I took a picture of the finished product. Does the timing look right?
Attached Thumbnails RC10B4.1 FT/WC-imag0313.jpg  
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:28 PM
  #17014  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
Since a few people in here run reedy sonic. My sonic stopped working a few weeks ago. I unplugged the sensor and it would work. I tired 4 sensor cables, none worked. So before I bought a new sensor board, I thought i would open it up, blow it out and just give it a once over. When I was putting it back together, I realized I had no idea how to put it to zero degrees. Then I noticed that the ">" that I think points to the timing value was 180deg away from the timing notches. I loosened the Philips screw, removed the black sensor cap and peeked inside, it looked ok I guess, so i put it back on, and rotated it till it pointed to the timing notches. put it together and gave it a little throttle. And it worked with my sensor cable. Is it possible the timing pointer got loose and moved and cause the motor to not work with the sensor cable plugged in? I took a picture of the finished product. Does the timing look right?
That is what my Sonics look like. The carat on the timing cover was 180 degrees out from the current position?
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:31 PM
  #17015  
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yes, I had issues with it a couple months ago, I sent it back to AE, they said they took it apart and cleaned it and it was fine and sent it back to me. I dont know if they put it together 180 deg off or if it moved. It did not seem loose. Would the goofy time setting cause it to not work with the sensor? Or do you think my blowing it out fixed it?
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:36 PM
  #17016  
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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
yes, I had issues with it a couple months ago, I sent it back to AE, they said they took it apart and cleaned it and it was fine and sent it back to me. I dont know if they put it together 180 deg off or if it moved. It did not seem loose. Would the goofy time setting cause it to not work with the sensor? Or do you think my blowing it out fixed it?
If it were 180 degrees out I'm sure it would be all kinds of jacked up. My motors only move approximately within the range of the timing marks on the can.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:44 PM
  #17017  
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Well, it seems it is together properly now and working. Hopefully it stays that way. Now I just need my worlds B4 to get here.
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Old 07-22-2012, 08:50 PM
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Originally Posted by madweazl
You need to come back down and take my buggy for a few laps.
did you get it dialed in?
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:26 PM
  #17019  
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Can anyone tell me if the hexlite wheels are a matte type finish like the prolines or more glossy like the jconcepts wheels in the white finish?
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:38 PM
  #17020  
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How do i set my caster to 30*? Is it where the front bumper bolts in?
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:41 PM
  #17021  
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Originally Posted by umm winning
How do i set my caster to 30*? Is it where the front bumper bolts in?
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...t-RC10B4-T4-GT

or

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ster-Block-L-R
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Old 07-23-2012, 05:31 AM
  #17022  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
whats everyone running for caster blocks,2 hole or 3 hole?
2 hole is carbon which wear longer..3 holes are plastic and have a extra hole!


I run the carbon ones...
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:06 AM
  #17023  
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Originally Posted by mxracer458
did you get it dialed in?
It's working pretty well. Layout is changing so we'll see how it works on the new track. Hopefully the dirt doesnt change too much.
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Old 07-23-2012, 06:52 AM
  #17024  
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Originally Posted by madweazl
It's working pretty well. Layout is changing so we'll see how it works on the new track. Hopefully the dirt doesnt change too much.
So traction has been alot better?
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:06 AM
  #17025  
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Ok.... So I should get my b4 wc this week. I have my B4 non wc setup pretty well. The main difference in the new car will be the +8 chassis. What tuning changes should I expect from my current B4 baseline setup? Will I need more forward weight? I have heard the +8 pushes more, is that what I will need to overcome? I will tell you what my current setup is off the top of my head.

Front:
1mm under front stud.
2mm bump steer
30 deg caster
30 wt oil
middle top inside bottom shocks with 2 limiters inside.
#2 piston
alum avid rack
inside on hub inside on tower.
Brown springs AE

rear
inside top and inside bottom on the shock.
25 wt oil
#1 piston.
middle on hub and inside on the hub. with 1mm under the stud and the "A" hub.
1 oz under the tower
1/4 in each rear triangle, 1/2 oz next to receiver
Batteries middle with 1/2 pad on each end.
-1 deg camber
2 deg anti squat
3 deg toe in (i think)
silver springs AE
Hubs forward
.5 alum hubs
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