8T 2.0
03-09-2011 | 06:53 PM
Tech Master
iTrader: (45)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,059
Yep I do. I have backlash on the front diff as well. But when it comes to the rear diff I'll never run it again, too many failures. The rear diff takes a ton of abuse in the truggy. It needs to be tight. Every failure I've seen on a rear R&P in a losi truck was a result of too much backlash. I have explained the situation to many people, and when they shim their next set nice n' tight, they never have an issue again. This isn't just some BS pulled out of a hat. There are many people that share my opinion. It works, so I'm gonna keep on doing it the way I do and keep on recommending that others do as well. I've seen too many issues come from doing things other ways. I'm happy to hear your method is working for you, but for the great majority it causes problems...
03-09-2011 | 06:55 PM
03-09-2011 | 07:03 PM
OMG rear diff don't use any backlash aka play you will spend kiss $$ bye for no reason. Shim tight feeling the high spots eliminating any back and forth movement. Theirs one guy at my track with
diff issues over two years tried to give some pointers but he keeps blowing gears. I've replaced one set after two years no clicking noise period from AM to PM hot cold raining snowing oh it doesn't snow in hawaii but trust this method it works.
diff issues over two years tried to give some pointers but he keeps blowing gears. I've replaced one set after two years no clicking noise period from AM to PM hot cold raining snowing oh it doesn't snow in hawaii but trust this method it works.
03-10-2011 | 10:26 AM
OMG rear diff don't use any backlash aka play you will spend kiss $$ bye for no reason. Shim tight feeling the high spots eliminating any back and forth movement. Theirs one guy at my track with
diff issues over two years tried to give some pointers but he keeps blowing gears. I've replaced one set after two years no clicking noise period from AM to PM hot cold raining snowing oh it doesn't snow in hawaii but trust this method it works.
diff issues over two years tried to give some pointers but he keeps blowing gears. I've replaced one set after two years no clicking noise period from AM to PM hot cold raining snowing oh it doesn't snow in hawaii but trust this method it works.
03-10-2011 | 01:28 PM
I've ruined 2 pinion gears in two months by being afraid to shim it too tight, last Sunday and with the advice from you guys here in the forum I learned that the diffs need to shimmed tight until it feels gritty to the point where it feels almost too tight, after a few tanks it'll break in I'm hoping that this time around it'll last me 10 gallons or so.
03-10-2011 | 01:46 PM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,583
I hear the Mugens clicking now. It's common sense folks to shim them up tight. Backlash can cause more failure on older rigs where the bulkhead is worn or older. A tight R & P with grease will mesh in and run great.
Backlash vs tight differ on different tracks and driving styles. Last week, I heard Losi and Mugen both clicking and clacking when braking.
I've given up on trying to help people. It's useless and a waste of time.
Backlash vs tight differ on different tracks and driving styles. Last week, I heard Losi and Mugen both clicking and clacking when braking.
I've given up on trying to help people. It's useless and a waste of time.
03-10-2011 | 03:25 PM
+1 The trucks need to be shimmed tight in the rear. It should feel slightly notchy.. I always checked how it felt by hand every time i prepped for a race and shimmed as needed. When i got to 5 shims total, i would replace the gear box and bearings, AKA- START OVER FRESH. 
This method works!
This method works!
03-10-2011 | 03:32 PM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 4,583
What I can't understand is this just isn't a Losi problem. I have drove them all and due to wear on the gears, I was always re-shimming to keep the R & P tight. Now, the D8T was one truck that had excellent gears and never needed re-shimmed. Outside of that, everything else on the truck was pretty negative.
03-10-2011 | 03:36 PM
I hear the Mugens clicking now. It's common sense folks to shim them up tight. Backlash can cause more failure on older rigs where the bulkhead is worn or older. A tight R & P with grease will mesh in and run great.
Backlash vs tight differ on different tracks and driving styles. Last week, I heard Losi and Mugen both clicking and clacking when braking.
I've given up on trying to help people. It's useless and a waste of time.
Backlash vs tight differ on different tracks and driving styles. Last week, I heard Losi and Mugen both clicking and clacking when braking.
I've given up on trying to help people. It's useless and a waste of time.
03-11-2011 | 08:53 AM
Quick question.... Did Losi come out with an updated front center drive shaft? I just got one from A-Main and it has a universal joint. It looks like a rear axle shaft from a Traxxas or something. Just a question. The good thing is, I dont have to worry about the center pin comming out. The only set screw is the one to tighten it to the pinion. Less moving parts= reliability but you dont get the option to rebuild it. Unless I got on from the RTR's but I think they are the same.
03-11-2011 | 09:05 AM
Tech Elite
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,648
From: Aurora, Colorado
+1 The trucks need to be shimmed tight in the rear. It should feel slightly notchy.. I always checked how it felt by hand every time i prepped for a race and shimmed as needed. When i got to 5 shims total, i would replace the gear box and bearings, AKA- START OVER FRESH. This method works!
This method works!
03-11-2011 | 09:12 AM
Cool, Thanks. Not worried but just wondering. It looks a little beffier. Only thing I can see is you cant rebuidl it, just replace it.
03-11-2011 | 12:03 PM
03-11-2011 | 12:14 PM
I ran these truck for many years. The 1.0 had no shims and the r/p went for awhile in my truggy. The 2.0 now is shimable and everyone is having issues. I would always shim it to where there was still a little high spot but mostly smooth, not notchy and the r/p would last all year long. When I would rebuild the diff I would check the shim but I lost more front r/p than rear. This truck makes noise. IDK where it comes from but it is noisy.
