start the fully charged battery checked 7.2v,
run untill it soft cutoff,
endup 3.12 each cell on this 2S, result 6.24v right? So it's under my cutoff custom 6.7v.
After the battery not being use for 1hr, i get 3.2v each cell. Tha's still under my cutoff,
is it something wrong with this cuoff ?

true if you do that in brushed, it will turn backward rotation.
because you put 90° endbell.
and it's over the range 0°~60°, according to it's brushed.

what happened on new generation
64° is 60°+4° in range 0°~60° per rotation,
this is what Brushed can't do, and what previously 60° brushless still mimic
the brushed method and add the Advanced Dynamic (what brushed cant do).

but there is more that Brushed can't do, is Dual Timing.
like i said it's 4° Secret's you can say 59°+5°
what ever it is, it can be done with in 0°~60° per rotation.
Good luck learning.

All this bickering and crap needs to stop!!!!
This forum is here for the general public to go to for help and etc.
No one wants to come into forums like this in the need of help or advice and see that this is what is going on in here.These sort of actions WILL detur people from posting useful information and asking for help.And could potentially cost Hobby wing sales as the product support forum for software is full of people arguing about rediculous stuff.
Someone from Hobby wing tech needs to come into this forum and sort this out weather the timing is in steps or actual degrees.
It doesnt help when someone posts something inregards to getting help and they dont recieve it due to everyone arguing

Anyways its just my 0.02cents
But someone from hobby wing tech wether its a software designer or simular position within the company needs to come on here and shed the light and ENd this by setting everyone straight on this.
Sorry guys

well said

however, like how it was said before, it doesn't matter whether its in degrees or steps. It's just a bunch of numbers really, and you
gear it,
time it,
turbo it,
until you can do it within temperature limits and the best lap times. Sometimes more, doesn't necessarily mean faster.

lap times rule, end of story.

looking forward to using the HW again since a 6mth hiatus.

Sounds like an issue to me. I have never run my battery to the cut off, but I will experiment with my car tomorrow to see if I can replicate it.


Shawn.

The timing is programmed to function in 1 degree increments .so every change you make in timing it is in 1 degree increments to a maximum of 64 degree may it be internal timing or turbo.nothing else .

for example if you are running 40 degree in internal timing and 30 degree in turbo timing the effective timing will be max 64 degree with the 211 software ,were the extra 6 degree of timing will be useless and thats from the turbo timing not the internal timing .i hope you all understand .

the most important is the internal timing which is a total of 64 degrees max now if you run max internal timing at 64 degree and 30 degrees of turbo timing the efective timing is only the internal timing and the 30 degree of turbo timing is wasted no turbo .

I hope that it helps you guys out

Irgo it seems there is alot of bickering going on and this forum is for people who own hobbywings or want to purchase hobbywings information thread it is not for you or anyone else to have a battle .If you want to battle especially about rediculous childish stuff please leave the thread and when your ready to return and make an effort to the thread instead of argueing please let us know or the other outcome will be i ask the administrator to shut the whole thread down and customers can get in contact with me by email .

its up to you now .

regards Angelo

Thanks Cobra!!! Hopefuly now everyone will let it be, its just frustrating to come into a new forum and find users arguing over what settings does what!!

When will the new software be available? I'm racing this weekend and have a new speedy here waiting new FW... I have not upgraded because i thought it would be out by now.. Not too worried either way. Just want some info

Cheers
Phill

+1

Not only are you bickering pointlessly you are now bickering pointlessly over software that the average customer doesnt even have access to. (211)

Counter productive for HW and all their loyal users!

Sorry if I was a problem, but NO ONE has it not even us. Sorry for any offence

Dear Guys

Here we are with the proper info :


The timing is programmed to function in single step increments not timing related to angle .so every change you make is in (steps) increments to a maximum of 64 steps may it be internal timing(which changes dynamicaly or turbo timing (related to time).nothing else .

for example if you are running 40 steps in internal timing(related to rpm) and 30 steps in turbo timing (related to time) the effective timing (steps) will be max 64 steps with the 211 software ,were the extra 6 degree (steps) of timing will be useless and thats from the turbo timing not the internal timing .i hope you all understand .

the most important is the internal timing which is a total of 64 degree (steps) not degree angle) max now if you run max internal timing at 64 degree Steps) and 30 degree of turbo timing (Steps) the efective timing is only the internal timing and the 30 degree of turbo timing is wasted no turbo .

conclusion timing is related to steps not angle of degree.

I hope that it helps you guys out

I did.

Let me try to explain, what I found out with Lipo's.
In my M11X transmitter, I have a 2S 2300mAh Lipo, why do I say that, well listen.
Fully charged, it is 8.4V (Duh ) Because I wanted to find out how long I could use my TX, I used it for several days, without charging. At the start of the last day, the battery voltage was 7.4V, which is nominal, so I thought I could still us my TX for a while (was already using it for 10 Hours up to to then)
But on the drivers stand, after a few minutes my transmitter started giving me low voltage alarms, and after checking the display, the battery was 6.7V.
So, conclusion, I drained the Lipo slowly, but when it reached 7.4V, it actually was almost empty.

Going back to the ESC.
The cut-off kicks in when the Lipo, under load goes under the set Voltage for more then 2 seconds.
The Lipo cut-off I have set to 3.4V (I drive 1S) and when the cut-off kicks in, I can still finish my lap (but slowly) and if I then measure my Lipo, it is around 3.7 - 3.8V
If I set the cut-off to 3.2V, the ESC doesn't give me the possiblity to finish my lap, and is even beeping the low voltage alarm... Lipo voltage is then also 3.2 - 3.3V

My conclusion, together with what I found out with my TX Lipo is that a Lipo set at a cut-off of 3.2 will just drain my lipo's to far, 3.4V is ok for me, for your information, I get 11+ minutes runtime on 3.4V....

I suggest you set your cut-off at 6.8V, just to check what happens...

firmware 211 now available.please send an email to [email protected] and i will reply with the firmware

regards Angelo

Contradictory posts within 4 hours from the english-language Hobbywing "representative"? Degrees and steps are not interchangeable terms.

What exactly is your relationship with Hobbywing? Because, to be blunt, it seems like you haven't got a clue how the software works, but choose to "unofficially" release software and documentation which then gets replaced and/or withdrawn soon afterwards.

Your "help" isn't helping.

I have great faith in the Hobbywing hardware, good faith in the older Hobbwing software, limited faith in the current software, and zero faith in your posts.

Perhaps someone from the actual Hobbywing factory can clear up this muddle once and for all rather than having page after page of random outbursts from Western dealers and distributors that purport to support the product but are actually damaging it?