No prob.


If anyone else is missing wheel nuts feel free to PM or email me. [email protected]

HA!



As for diffs. I think that a premature wear thing isn't really a problem that can be avoided, even with other companies. Brushless motors and LiPo batteries produce so much more power then their brushed/NiMh counterparts that things wear out faster. Not to mention runtime has doubled, even tripled compared to back in the day. Remember when you had to pull your 27t out EVERY run to cut it? I still remember rebuilding diffs often (but maybe that's cause I was new). Tires and tracks have also come along way. Gone are the days, at least in SoCal, where you'd run ribbed front tires and M3 Holeshots. Tracks have become more SX style and the grip is quite a bit higher. Both these changes put alot more strain on your diff, CVAs, shocks and slipper. I'd put money on it that if you ran a B4.1 with a 13x1 motor and some GP3300s that your diff would last longer than a 8.5 and 40C LiPo

I still run 8175's and m3 holeshots at hotrod every club night!

I worked at a hobby shop for 3 years, and trust me, a bad diff was not going to stop a new guy from racing, as long as their car still went forward they were happy.

Yep, thats the tire of choice at Pegasus as well.

+1 Pegasus rocks for tires ) I run my tires down and then can still use them over there in Montclair

Sorry I was referring to the indoor tracks. At the old SoCal you could run 8175s, and M3s and be dialed. Now at OC you gotta run slicks and at WC its MC Suburbs/ Gold Barcodes.


And Jonny, you're not really in SoCal!

Hmmmm actually I ran some Double Dee's in the rear and some ribs up front at WCRC just this last week and had no problems with grip. I had to wait for everyone else to run the track after it had been watered though Definitely not a good set-up for 'wet' clay

Isn't that what the slipper is for?

Ideally? Yes. But stuff wears out. How long do you want your diff to last? I personally don't mind rebuilding mine every couple race weekends.

I feel like I'm coming off as a whiner or smart a$$ but... you work for AE

For the rest of us... $40 a pop

Ideally, I want it to last longer than a few race days...

Which they normally do just frustrating when you get that occasional "bad batch" or whatever... probably best just to make it a habit to have some sand paper on hand...

You're not coming off as a whiner or a smart ass, just a customer with a valid complaint, and that's why I'm here. To help.


Anyways, you shouldn't have to replace everything. When I rebuild my diff, all I replace is my diff rings. I run the #6584 ceramic diff balls though. They are $5 more but last extremely long. I've been running the same ones in my diff since I built my B4.1 which was right before the 2010 Nats. The thrust, at least mine, never seems to wear but if you want to replace them you can, again without buying a full diff. If you really want your thrust super smooth, get the 18T carbide diff balls, 21116.

I always carry sand paper with me just because you never know what you'll need it for. I sand my rings though for the extra smooth feeling, not because un-sanded ones suck.

The only time I ever replace my outdrives, is when I put new CVA bones on. And the only time that happens is when I do a full rebuild, normally before a series race, big race, or if I've been running ALOT (6 days a week for 4 weeks straight or something like that).

If you aren't replacing your outdrives or CVA's a diff rebuild should cost around $5 or so.

Are you sanding the thrust washers? Do you think ceramic thrust balls are necessary? How often do you replace the t-nut? Or just get the diff rebuild kit, sand the washers and replace everything. Sorry for the rapid fire questions.

I don't sand the thrust, just pull it outta the package and install it. I also don't think ceramic thrust balls are necessary, the stock ones fine but the carbide will work great as well.

I replace the T-nut every time I replace the outdrives. The only thing I'll replace is the rings.

I'm not sure what you guys are doing to your diffs, but, I sand the rings and use ceramic diff balls and I'm good for at least 4 race weekends. If I'm feeling lazy, I wont work on the diff for 6-8.

Back in the day when I ran an RC10GT (and the parts were supposedly better!) I had a diff that would get gritty after 1 tank of gas. No matter how carefully I rebuilt it, it would not stay true. After several attempts I realized the outdrives were bad. I ended up buying a complete diff and that fixed it.

Unless there is something wrong, an AE ball diff should and will last longer than most.

just got my ballistic 10.5 for the t4...what would be the recommended overall gearing? ill be running on medium sized dirt and clay tracks