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Old 02-20-2011 | 12:35 PM
  #3046  
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Originally Posted by agarabaghi
Did he still have the 2250 for sale?
Ya but wouldn't take less than 130 shipped and Id still need to buy an esc so just bought the whole combo new.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 12:36 PM
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his post says $110?
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Old 02-20-2011 | 12:52 PM
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Gregg, if it makes you feel any better, I'm having your kind of luck, but with my race car instead of the RC car. I just realized that I screwed the pooch on my battery box. The custom face panel I had made it awesome. They made it exactly how I wanted it. Problem is that I must not have measured correctly. I didn't take into account the flanges on the flange mounted connectors. The flanges on the connectors hit the cutout in the battery box. Problem is, if I make the cutout big enough, then there is no material for the mounting screws on the panel. So that's at least an $80 face panel down the drain, and maybe an $80 battery box down the drain. Not to mention the time I'm going to lose waiting for another face panel to be machined (that I have yet to design), and I can't completely finish up the wiring job without the battery box. Ugh...the race is in 3 weeks, and I'm really pushing it.

Well, off to fix the design on my panel...

Good news is that I finished rebuilding my kiddo's MERV and got everything aligned last night. I went ahead and aligned the RC8Be as well. Planning to finally hit the track this upcoming week with it.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 12:56 PM
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It's definitely not looking good for you either Billy. That's a bummer. You better get off of RCTech and get a move on with a race in 3 weeks!




Originally Posted by 117
Gregg, if it makes you feel any better, I'm having your kind of luck, but with my race car instead of the RC car. I just realized that I screwed the pooch on my battery box. The custom face panel I had made it awesome. They made it exactly how I wanted it. Problem is that I must not have measured correctly. I didn't take into account the flanges on the flange mounted connectors. The flanges on the connectors hit the cutout in the battery box. Problem is, if I make the cutout big enough, then there is no material for the mounting screws on the panel. So that's at least an $80 face panel down the drain, and maybe an $80 battery box down the drain. Not to mention the time I'm going to lose waiting for another face panel to be machined (that I have yet to design), and I can't completely finish up the wiring job without the battery box. Ugh...the race is in 3 weeks, and I'm really pushing it.

Well, off to fix the design on my panel...

Good news is that I finished rebuilding my kiddo's MERV and got everything aligned last night. I went ahead and aligned the RC8Be as well. Planning to finally hit the track this upcoming week with it.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 01:15 PM
  #3050  
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Default tight front RC8 cva bone

Hi
this is my first kit. I just completed the front suspension. I noticed its hard to turn the cva bone. Both wheel hexes do turn when you turn the cva bone but the cva is very hard to turn. Is this normal. The front suspension is on the chassis. Any suggestions would be great.
thanks
Peter
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Old 02-20-2011 | 01:16 PM
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did u make sure not to put the diff in backwards in the case?
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Old 02-20-2011 | 01:19 PM
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^^ That was my first thought too.

Thanks Gregg. Looking into alternatives now...
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Old 02-20-2011 | 01:22 PM
  #3053  
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Default differential in case

I'm almost certain I put the differential in the correct way. before I put the front end on the chassis it turned easier.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by agarabaghi
his post says $110?
I made an offer on a few. The one I'm talking about was still NIB. To be honest I dont even remember which ones i sent PMs to.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 01:37 PM
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not sure, found a 2050 i tihnk im gonna snag it.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by citizen16
Hi
this is my first kit. I just completed the front suspension. I noticed its hard to turn the cva bone. Both wheel hexes do turn when you turn the cva bone but the cva is very hard to turn. Is this normal. The front suspension is on the chassis. Any suggestions would be great.
thanks
Peter
My right front was the same way. It loosens up after a while.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 03:20 PM
  #3057  
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Originally Posted by agarabaghi
not sure, found a 2050 i tihnk im gonna snag it.
I have a 1900 on the way back from Tekin warranty right now. When I get it my 2050 will be on the market and it runs great.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 03:21 PM
  #3058  
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how long u thinking... i need something by the end of the week.
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Old 02-20-2011 | 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jasons36
I have a 1900 on the way back from Tekin warranty right now. When I get it my 2050 will be on the market and it runs great.
What happened to the 1900. Didn't you just get that!?!?
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Old 02-20-2011 | 03:49 PM
  #3060  
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Gregg,

You're making me nervous! LOL! My Tekin is installed, and hasn't even been turned on yet. I'm almost afraid to turn it on. For your sake, and for mine I hope that was just some really bad luck.

Billy,

Wiring job looks alright. Although, you are pretty close to the spur... Why did you go straight up on the ESC and straight out on the motor with the wire connections? I went up with both. Just wanted to keep as little stress on the solder joints as much as possible. Personally, I think I might have too much wire...

Frank
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