I used to do this too but mine routed under the chassis brace.
I then went with a 3" extension so I would not be yanking on the ESC wire from the RX when I wanted to upgrade hotwire versions.

click

The plates are for the VE8. The chassis has replaceable front and rear clips. They make aluminum ones that strengthen the center part from cracking. If you do not run them on the hot bodies, you are pretty much guaranteed to break the stock chassis.

Is this ok to run with the Tekin and a Futaba Receiver?

4s is better in my opinion for the following reasons:

1. Weight, it's lighter than the other two combined.
2. Clean wiring.
3. Balance two 2s's together can be tricky without the right charger.

A 5.5 nut driver or thin wall socket would do it.

sure can

Ok, ordering :-)

Still kind of annoyed though that I need to do this. But, it's needed.

Ordered:

Along with a Losi Tire Balancer (since i'll be gluing my tires soon, might as well balance them!)

Do you know how to use the tire balancer?

I did. I ran a very long one so I don't have to pull up the tray if I need to disconnect my ESC for any reason.

I know the concept of spinning the tire around and watching where the heavy end is and counter balancing it with the putty....

Aside from that, do you know something I don't?

Although, the balancing isn't my concern. It's the gluing

I personally wouldn't run this motor in a buggy for racing. Too much weight, torque and power. You will never be able to put all that power down on loose dirt tracks and wheel spin will make you loose traction at the worse times. You'll have to tone it down on the radio. Which to me defeats the whole purpose of getting the motor. I run a Castle 1.5Y 1800kv and I can keep up with any nitro out there, no sweat. It's all in the gearing.

1 4s 5000 it is lighter and smaller than 2 2s.

Agree with Blade. I wouldn't run anything larger than a 1900kv if you are serious about racing.

Gluing isn't hard. And balancing isn't bad. Just where you put the putty.