I am 100% on board with this statement. I don't feel this "8lb pig" needs measurement to the exact .000001th degree, but I am all about getting SOME kind of measurement on chamber, toe in, and suspension because i do plan to race this summer and these things are important to handling and could mean your race over the next guys (depending on your driving)

3 tools I'm highly interested in:

chamber measurement tool
Toe in measurement tool
shock compression / height / w.e. tool to ensure the shocks are correct.

I've looked around the web and stuff, but I'm not sure how to such this stuff out. Anyone have any links possibly, or does this stuff not exist? LOL...

Oh, and bill & I were talking about foams for the tires, but I never really did get an answer... but I'm curious.. you guys running with foams in your tires?

Don't you need to compare ESC temp to motor temp, as brushless motors can overhead if undergeared, no?

Well i step it upto 17t and did a lot of speed runs up and down the street, came out to 140esc / 140motor... and its about 80* outside... so im happy.

Here are some pictures with the new body. I eventually want to get some black rims / tires on her...

I do not know anyone that does not run the foams in their tires. I am not sure anyone really has taken your view with round and flat or square and high. There is more bickering over what brand and type of foam you are using. AKA, pro-line, ofna, losi and jconcepts all have their own brand of foams. People tend to have their own preferences.

Start with tires first. That is 80% of getting the setup right. All the other adjustments are there to fine tune it further.

I use the RPM toe gauge and camber gauge:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...M-Toe-In-Gauge

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Camber-Gauge

As far as the shock tool goes, I bought one of those for my tenth scale buggy back in the day and never ended up using it. I'm sure somebody makes one of those for eighth scale buggies...With the RC8Be, I just compress both the front and/or rear shocks on a table, eyeball them, and make the necessary adjustments.

That's not always the case. My RC8Be runs cooler with a 2050 geared at 20/46 than it does with a 2050 geared at 18/46 or 19/46. Some of the old tenth scale motor rules are thrown out the window with these eight scale motors. For example, there's really not a trade-off between RPM and torque because the more gear you add, the more torque and RPM you'll get. In my opinion, with these motors it's all about finding that sweet spot where you're car is running cool and you've got enough power for the given track and conditions. For me, that's 19/46 with a 1900 on indoor tracks, 20/46 with a 1900 on small outdoor tracks, and 20/46 with a 2050 on large outdoor tracks...

Correct. These large torquey 1/8 motors don't always follow the same rules at the 1/10 motors.

For instance, with my Savage Flux HP. HPI recommends to run a 25T pinion when running 6S. With 4s, they recommend the smaller standard pinion.

Yep, and the easiest thing is just go over to the rx8 thread and search because most guys have found those sweet spots and can narrow it in quicker for you.

Anyone try the V3 series Pro-Line tires and wheels? I was able to get a set of V3 Bow-Ties with V3 wheels for a very good price. I'm mounting them now. It seems that AKA has more consistent molds for both the wheels and tires, but the additional width on the V3 Pro-Line series is nice.

One other question. Is motor spray the same thing as brake parts cleaner that you can buy at the local auto parts stores? All of the descriptions I've read of motor spray look just like the descriptions for brake parts cleaner (dissolves grease and oil, dries w/o residue, etc). Reason why I ask is that I see a lot of tire mounting vids/write ups that state only to use motor spray. Well, motor spray is $5 to $6 a can. I buy O'Reilly Auto Parts brand brake parts cleaner by the case, as I use a ton of it out in the garage. When I buy by the case, I can get the stuff as cheap as $2 to $2.50 a can.

Completely rebuild my kiddo's MERV today since he broke the chassis. I had plenty of time since we were "snowed in" today. Only 2 to 3 inches of snow, but that's over a thick layer of ice, so I stayed home today. Kiddo is getting over being sick, but now my wife has a bad case of strep. Hopefully we'll be 100% by next weekend. Plus my friggin face plates aren't going to be here today, so I'm not sure what I'm going to do this weekend with the full scale car. Probably work on the sphericals for the suspension, I guess.

all i run is proline and the v3 tires and wheels are wider in diameter you will have to adjust some stuff with the steering due to the fact the wheels are wider ive ran (bowfighters) crime fighters in front and v3 bowties in the rear great setup and car is rediculously planted in the rear

Sounds good. I was thinking that if I used the V3 size wheels/tires on the front that I'd have to turn down the DR. I was also thinking that using V2 tires/wheels up front with the V3 size in the rear would work well too. Thanks for confirming that. I'm going to order a set of V2 size wheels and tires to use up front.

BTW guys, I searched the Tekin thread for gearing suggestions, and I found this little gem (http://www.rctech.net/forum/5758689-post1284.html):

Slightly off topic here but for any of you guys who run a 1/10 buggy indoors what tyres do you go for?

And back on topic....is everyone here running the 46t spur or using the std plastic 44t?

Stock plastic spur is 46T.

Here's another gearing post http://www.rctech.net/forum/5802587-post1539.html

I've gone to the darkside!