any idea when amain will have the 12V units back in stock?

Next Week... Orders in transit.

12V heaters in stock http://www.nitro-north.com

http://http://www.houstonsengineservice.com/ Monty even has 3s lipos setup for these also.

this bench test was in my garage.. its currently 65*. 29 mins on the stop watch.. is this typical for other users?

whats the safe temp to crank over a tight motor? i want to break in my new XZ-B but don't want to play the heat game. during the day, 70-80* im sure 200+ shouldn't be hard to achieve.

oh, and comp. heat informed me that heat cycle time should be limited to 30 mins.. so thats when the heater will be cut off. so what kind of temps do you guys look for when pre-heating a engine?

200*F for a new engine is fine. Watch the temps during breakin. Rich mixtures often bring temps down while running. Allowing it to run too cool will cause more stress on the rod and wrist pin. I have (on occasion) kept the heater on the heatsink while the engine is running (unplugged, with the lead rubber banded to the wing). I position the heater up or down to keep the temps near 200.

It looks as though you are using the 120V model. If it took the full 30 mins. to reach 200*F, that seems a little long at that ambient temp. Your reading of 378*F at the heater shows that it is indeed working well, but possibly not transferring it's heat well. Was the car/engine at ambient at the start of the test? Was it snug on the heatsink? Is the heatsink shape straight l l , rounded ( ) , or tapered \ / ? The rounded or tapered shapes don't transfer heat as readily.

Moto

the head is straight. the XZ-B i think is tapered.. so its going to be interesting. now i haven't checked the voltage at my house, but im sure its close to 120V. i'll double check soon.

and the chassis was in my car all day, so when i pulled it out, it had to of been warmer than 65*.. the temp of the garage. so tomorrow, i'll take a before reading, and a 15 min reading, and then a final 30min reading.

378* sounds cooking! but i didn't get any initial smoke for the 1st use.. and at the end of my 30 mins, maxed it at 200 on top. also, the heat transferred, because i could feel it soaking into the bottom of the chassis..

my concern is, if this heater, right now, ambient 65*.. after 30 mins, the max time allowed on the heater.. and im getting 200*.. is that good enough? once i get the engine kicked over, yeah i can leave the heater on (unplugged) to help trap the heat for break in.

oh, and the 378*.. that was at the hottest spot on the sock i could find. most area's were in the 250's.. dont' know if its the extra material, if its the bare area of the heater, ect. the high 378 was the hottest spot check of the heater.

anything over 160 with the chassis soaking up heat & hot to touch is fine to fire it up

here to report back some more testing.

seams the heater woke up.. this is its 2nd cycle, so maybe now im getting more optimal results.

ok, so ambient temp was 69*. my engine head temp to start was same. 69*.

my garage voltage is 121-123.

10 mins into the test.. outside sock temp (hottest spot) 349*.
inside glow plug area. 188*.

20 mins into test.. outside sock temp (hottest spot) 370*
inside glow plug area. 208*.

with the inside of the head being 200+ i shut it down.

210 at the top fin of the head heat sink. 125 at the case.

so today, took 20 mins to make my 200* mark. very happy. not sure if this heater is going to become more efficient with the more cycles i go through it. very pleased with the temps im getting right now.

what temps are u getting under the chassis between the engine mount ?

Well after ready up on this thread and seeing good results I'm sold, looks like I'll be getting one of these next week....I need to break in a new mill and this is just the ticket to use....

Is anyone running the 12V heater on a 4 cell LiFe pack. I run a 4 cell LiFe system in my starter box, just wondering what the "effects would be if ran it off the starter box supply (13.2V-14.8V) rather than buying a 3 cell Lipo (11.1V-13.2V). Will it fail?

What I was told is you don't want the power supply to be above 12V. So even if you have a 3S Lipo, you can only charge it to 12V and not the full 12.6V.

Many user's don't bother with this and run em full voltage. 12.6 isn't sustained for very long anyways.

I thought the same thing. Just going with what I have been told with emails and on this forum.

Hey guys. I just picked up the 12v version and didn't realize i couldn't run it on 4-cell lipo till I got it here and read the instructions. Can someone point me to a good place besides HobbyKing, that sells cheap reliable 3s lipos. Thanks in advance.

Oh yeah...has anyone run the 12v off of a power supply turned down to 12v?