20LikesTeam Associated TC6 Thread
02-01-2011 | 06:00 PM
#1667
Does any one know what the best body shell is for the TC6 is. On my TC5 I tried the R9 and that was the worst shell I had ever used so I changed to the DNA 2 which I also put on the TC6. The P37-R looks quite good but does it handle well or is there a better shell out there?
thanks
thanks
Go with the LTCR or a Speed 6 and call it a day.
02-01-2011 | 06:13 PM
#1669
Lots of guys at my track are running the R9. Seems to be working rather well for them. Like anything else, body is just another tuning tool in the entire set up of the car.
02-01-2011 | 08:35 PM
#1670
Not sure if this has been brought up lately, but I was having issues with my right rear bulk head having poorly threaded holes. The bulk head was stripped on one hole and on the bottom side as well. I actually had a screw back out during a race and fall out (which I check before each run). So I changed my M3X14 to M3X16 for a little more bite when holding on the A arms. For the chassis underneath to the bulk head I used M3X8 instead of the M3X5, but some 8's didnt fit, because of inconsistant depths of the treaded holes.
02-01-2011 | 11:45 PM
#1672
Tech Adept
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 112
From: Germany
Hi!
I use some cnc cut 10mm tool to put inside bearing more,
and now:
- outside is 5x10x3,
- inside is 5x10x4,
- hex is from yokomo: bd-011c (5mm) or nr graupner: YBD.011C,
- spec-r bd5 double joint axle
Need some work on c-hub to fit it, and I will squeeze tc6 diff, it is a little slop,
or put Y bd5 gear diff to front with 100k oil
Anyway, works, from slow rpms to high without big shaking
Also I wait very long time for ae factory to do own axle ...
tool:
Attachment 702326
| + YouTube Video | |
I use some cnc cut 10mm tool to put inside bearing more,
and now:
- outside is 5x10x3,
- inside is 5x10x4,
- hex is from yokomo: bd-011c (5mm) or nr graupner: YBD.011C,
- spec-r bd5 double joint axle
Need some work on c-hub to fit it, and I will squeeze tc6 diff, it is a little slop,
or put Y bd5 gear diff to front with 100k oil
Anyway, works, from slow rpms to high without big shaking
Also I wait very long time for ae factory to do own axle ...
tool:
Attachment 702326
Good Luck with the Spec-R axles. We tried them in the Yokomo BD5 (All in Modified) but they didn't last long. They kept braking at the Joint.
02-02-2011 | 08:34 AM
#1674
-b
02-02-2011 | 10:12 AM
#1676
The real secret is to pick up 2 or 3 bodies, as it is the quickest tuning aid (ie less then 10 seconds to change the body) and it makes an unbelievable difference in handling. It will take a couple of laps to adjust to the difference in the body. Like JRS_chris suggests maybe the R9 gives you a ton of front bit that you need in the rain to make your standard setup just work.
-b
-b
While todays TC's DO have a lot of steering, there is something to be said for greater downforce in almost any racing situation. Using an R9 in the wet is a great example of that. I use it because our local track has less grip than most. But i would likely shy away from using it at a big event that has high grip, like the Snowbirds... because the body DOES require more wrench time to find a setup that works for your particular chassis.
Im just saying dont shy away from the R9. A lot of people hated the Mazda 6 body when it first came out because it had so much steering. It went on to become a staple in TC racing for years.
02-03-2011 | 04:28 AM
#1678
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 786
From: Poland, Warsaw
litemodz tc6 axle
anyone try them in the past with tc5 ?
maybe now with tc6?
http://www.litemodz.com/product_info...roducts_id=402
