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Old 12-28-2010 | 05:17 AM
  #1216  
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My batteries don't seem to fit well in my TC6. I've tried a few different brands of different sizes and I've tried every configuration of the braces, but they still slide forwards and backwards and side to side. Any tips on how to keep my batteries from sliding around even when taped in?
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Old 12-28-2010 | 06:02 AM
  #1217  
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Originally Posted by M.Abramowicz
Hi!


Probably it was described somewhere but what spacer is need for same
effect.

In some setups is for example:
- 2mm spacer with sliver outer ball on hub...

Which spacer I should put for same effect if I use black ball ?



Regards!
m


edit:

probably 0.5-0.7mm silver is higher then black one ...

It is very close to 1mm. That is what I use.
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Old 12-28-2010 | 06:05 AM
  #1218  
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Originally Posted by Timbulb
My batteries don't seem to fit well in my TC6. I've tried a few different brands of different sizes and I've tried every configuration of the braces, but they still slide forwards and backwards and side to side. Any tips on how to keep my batteries from sliding around even when taped in?
Using the Reedy packs, I used dbl. sided tape to attach a piece of lexan to the front of the pack and that stoped all movement. That makes it a snug fit.
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Old 12-28-2010 | 08:06 AM
  #1219  
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come on bulkheads, be available for sale soon please!

Originally Posted by walterhenderson
It is very close to 1mm. That is what I use.
Soon all that mm under the ballstud means less thread in the plastic which is why the silver was used so you get extra height without changing the amount of thread into the hub making it a bit tougher, but good to know 1mm will work in a pinch with no silver studs available....
Also as a note dont use the offroad .030" silver ball studs, they do not have same thread as the metric silver/black and they will back out on you
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Old 12-28-2010 | 11:32 AM
  #1220  
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Default Losi LCD style drive shafts

I'm in the process of testing / tuning my TC6. Great car so far, but I have a question regarding the amount of chatter coming from the front end when turning.

I'm not running the set screws in the front drive shafts to free them up as much as possible. However, I still see and feel a lot of chatter from the shafts when turning still.

How come Associated isn't making a double jointed style drive shaft for this car. Doesn't seem it would be too tough to get one to market and I'm sure a lot of racers would scoop them up.
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Old 12-28-2010 | 12:13 PM
  #1221  
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the double jointed front axles made a world and all difference in my 009 xray. very smoooooth!
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Old 12-28-2010 | 12:24 PM
  #1222  
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+1
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Old 12-28-2010 | 01:17 PM
  #1223  
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Originally Posted by damage
I'm in the process of testing / tuning my TC6. Great car so far, but I have a question regarding the amount of chatter coming from the front end when turning.

I'm not running the set screws in the front drive shafts to free them up as much as possible. However, I still see and feel a lot of chatter from the shafts when turning still.

How come Associated isn't making a double jointed style drive shaft for this car. Doesn't seem it would be too tough to get one to market and I'm sure a lot of racers would scoop them up.

I saw one of the team drivers running Hot Bodies DCJ's with a spool. I know you would have to swap out the bearings to make it fit. Not sure if any extra shimming is needed.
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Old 12-28-2010 | 04:18 PM
  #1224  
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Anyone with a TC5 and a TC6 can tell me if the turnbuckle are the same size
I know that the TC5 is.
1 1/4 front camber
1 3/8 rear camber
1 5/8 steering
is this the same with the TC6 any info would help.
Thanks,Guys
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Old 12-28-2010 | 04:49 PM
  #1225  
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Hi Timbulb, i used two velcro straps with the plastic loop on one of them. I sewed a loop at each end to slide tightly over the carbon fiber stays. The strap with the plastic loop on the end finishes about a third the way along the battery, then from the other end the velcro that is longer is threaded through the plastic loop and pulled back on its self (not too tightly because of tweak). The velcro seems to take up the slop between the battery and the stayin my case with no movement.
Hope this makes sense, and helps.
Anthony.
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Old 12-28-2010 | 05:03 PM
  #1226  
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Originally Posted by Handbrake
Hi Timbulb, i used two velcro straps with the plastic loop on one of them. I sewed a loop at each end to slide tightly over the carbon fiber stays. The strap with the plastic loop on the end finishes about a third the way along the battery, then from the other end the velcro that is longer is threaded through the plastic loop and pulled back on its self (not too tightly because of tweak). The velcro seems to take up the slop between the battery and the stayin my case with no movement.
Hope this makes sense, and helps.
Anthony.
Can you post a pic to see what it should look like
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Old 12-28-2010 | 07:15 PM
  #1227  
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I shoe-gooed a piece of high density foam underneath the belt between the motor mount and the battery, and it holds holds really well now.
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Old 12-28-2010 | 07:43 PM
  #1228  
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Top racing makes a nice velcro piece, thats what i use
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Old 12-28-2010 | 08:04 PM
  #1229  
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Just wondering, how come you dont just use velcro on the battery and chassis to hold the battery on? Too heavy? dirty? not enough to hold in a crash? A couple 4" pieces of velcro would certianly give you plenty of adjustment?
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Old 12-28-2010 | 08:58 PM
  #1230  
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I use tape, but all my batteries were smaller than the space between the braces, by about a 1/4 inch. But like I said, I have the problem licked with a little shoe-goo and foam. Now tape works just fine.
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