whats the proper gearing for a 4600kv (8.5t) for the b4.1?

I run Tekin w/speed passion 8.5t. Gearing at 23/81 or 23/78...can't remember which spur I have in it right now. Boost at 25

Well there is your problem, the LRP X12 motors run very hot as they are horribly inefficient. A local guy switched out a LRP X12 13.5 for a Tekin Redline 13.5, same car, same gearing and the motor temp went from 160 degrees to 110 degrees instantly. My Tekin 13.5 never gets above 110 degrees, normally hovers around 100 degrees.

The other key to gearing is whether or not you are doing timing in the ESC. In other words without comparing ESC/motor timing settings it's impossible to compare gearing apples to apples.

My setup:

RC10T4.1 Factory
Tekin RS / Tekin Redline 13.5
Thunder Power Pro Race 50C
78 spur / 20 pinion
Tacoma RC Raceway (80x40 indoor tight clay track)

Here is my Tekin ESC setup sheet with all the timing details. I've got great low end torque and punch in the tight infield and dang near unlimited top end on the straight away.

http://www.amoney.org/rc/AnthonyL_Te...11-11-2010.pdf

Here is a site that helped me out tons.
http://www.comeseethis.com/gearing/

For a 13.5 novak what would you guys start with for gearing?????? T4

no timing advance or boost with esc

Anthony,
Is running the 0.5 degree hubs and the 2.5 degree rear toe block the same as running the 0 degree hub and the 3.0 degree rear toe block, or does that half degree difference, specifically with that difference being on the outside, free you up more?

this is an instance where 2.5 + 0.5 != 3. sounds funny but its true. best example i can give you to explain this is go ahead and read the xray setup guide for onroad touring cars. as they have both available to their cars and they explains the different in detail.

R

ok guys since im new to the b4.1's v2 shocks im trying to figure out what shock oils and pistons to go with. right now have no idea what the previous owner ran but he has rpm pistons and i want to go back to the stocks. i will be running on indoor wet clay (ocrc) and running a 10.5

thanks for the help!

I run 30 in the front, 25 in the rear. #2 Pistons all around. I run on clay as well. Those RPM ones you have are they the "dual stage" or whatever? How are those why are you switching back?

I Just made it through all 63 pages… lots of good info!

I’m returning to RC racing after a fifteen year vacation and this AE kit is by far the nicest/highest quality I’ve ever assembled. Can’t wait to race it and start the learning curve all over again!

I would start with the B4.1 Factory Team standard kit setup. It's a great starting point. The most I've changed is the springs and maybe the limiters.

Front:

Associated Brown Spring
Associated #1 Piston
Associated 30wt Oil
Limiter = 0

Rear:

Associated Black Spring
Associated #1 Piston
Associated 30wt Oil
Limiter = 1

Yes, that's why I specifically pointed out inboard vs. outboard toe-in. There is a subtle difference between the two. Hopefully someone can chime in that can articulate it a little better than I can.

Sunnyside huh? I spend a lot of time in Yakima so I know where that is. Where do you race out that way? I know of two outdoor tracks in your vicinity but both are closed for the winter.

i bought the car with them in it but i wanted to see the difference between the 2. i keep seeing that some are running #2 pistons all around and the setup you have or 35fr or 30 rear

That's what I thought, just wanted to make sure. Tri-Cities is my home track, nice big open track, so I'm not use to the tight indoor tracks. A couple of us went to Portland yesterday to test and tune. I was pushing bad through a tight section that leads to the front stretch, went to the 0.5/2.5toe in, it felt better than the 0.5/3.0, but I was still looking for a little more rotation.

Thanks for the help. I'll see you at the ECT race in December.

Cool I know the owner of the Tri-Cities track.

Try moving the shocks inside front and rear for more rotation. Drill the 4th inside hole on the rear tower if you are running the truck.