looks like I will need one of these to run the heater as per specs yes?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI....=STRK:MEWAX:IT

What about a small 11.5 volt regulator that could go inline. With only a 4 amp draw I wouldn't think it would be hard to design or that expensive to produce. Maybe just a circuit board kit like in the old days. Limit input voltage to 18 or so and then a 3 or 4 cell lipo would work. Even a fully charged gell cell is 12.6

Thats it. The power cord comes with a Deans ultra connector so may want to get one for the battery and it will plug right in.

so continuous runtime on 4amp draw would be about 1hr , that should be all good and the price is affordable for this battery thanks.

bingo !!! get it goin and i will take a few

Eric- are you guys coming to Myrtle Beach next weekend? If so I'd like to check it out and maybe even send you home with one less. Take care.

I have a 110V compheat, purchased from Monty this spring. I had to buy a 12V to 110V power inverter as there is no AC at my track, and anyway in europe that'd be 220V... I have 4S in my starter box, so the inverter just won't work as the voltage is too high as an input. So when I want to preheat, I use my full-size car battery, then the inverter, then the compheat.... this is a PITA, I was just sooooooo happy to read about a 12V version....

... only to hear it still doesn't take 4S And it doesn't take a lead battery either as it pumps out WAY more than 12V when fully charged.

I mean, I love the concept and I swear by the product now (I was a non-believer till I got one ) but I think that would have been savvier from a marketing standpoint to allow it to plug into the "most common" portable source of power most racers carry in their starter box already I don't have much space in my Hudy starter-box to add another 3S lipo in there , plus I'm not sure I want to either.

Paul

That's the plan as of now Brandon. We have heard nothing but great things about this race.

I think if you had a 3S lipo and the Comp Heat 12V you would change your mind. Portable pre-heating is the way to go. We didn't want to run the Comp Heater off the same power source as the starter to keep from having the possibility of depleting the starter battery at race time and not having the juice to start your Buggy/Truggy.

Get a couple of them and run them in parallel...loads of capacity then!

on there way

you guys better or Nick the Big Tuna Cutuna will be upset!!!!

I will go race with him once he wins a race

Looking to get an engine heater, just not sure as to get the 120v or 12v. I don't want to have to order a 11.1v battery just for the heater and have read on here that a lead acid battery will damage the heating elements over time. Can anyone confirm that the lipo battery is the only battery to use?

Kind of answered your own question no?

For portability, you pretty much have to use an 11.1V battery. It would be nice though to be sitting in staging for 5 + minutes and not having your engine go cold!

Edit: Unless you could rig up a voltage reducer for a 12V battery...