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Old 11-17-2010 | 08:56 PM
  #10186  
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Originally Posted by builtb16a
yes, horizontal with the crank. so in and out, not "wobble" on the crank.

sometimes i have good luck with the $1 bearings. but usually dont last more than 1/2 gallon. ive ordered a dozen TKO $1 bearings instead of the $avids. so we'll see if there's a noticeable difference.

but regarding the HD bell, i was just curious if it was worth the extra $3-4. i wonder if my camera phone has a good macro, or else i'll have to wait till i get home. im just curious about my mesh wear. there's some serious grooves in my teeth. if the standard bell is going to wear the same, or others arent noticing a difference, might as well get the cheaper bell.

are the metals harder? or is the HD bell just heat treated?





well the robinson bell is harded steel but they are a lot better than the hd cluch bell for sure.

the problem is with the standard clutch bell is they cant really take alum shoes that long before they have grooves inside.


i run tko cluch beaings with the blue and black seal they lasted about a 1/2 gallon .

i hate $1 bearings .
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Old 11-17-2010 | 08:59 PM
  #10187  
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For me the high endurance bell was horrible. Didn't last long at all.
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Old 11-17-2010 | 09:07 PM
  #10188  
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I have had good luck with the Robinson bell and I have heard very good things about the answer-rc losi bell. I don't like any of the losi bells.
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Old 11-17-2010 | 09:14 PM
  #10189  
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2 gallons max. maybe thats how long they last.. i wish i could get more out of it. its noisy as hell with the engine off. i can't hear it on the track.

now.. i must admit. once i set the mesh, with my quick change engine mounts, i NEVER move it again. would regularly re-meshing the gears make the gear wear last longer? lol

again, im the worst at maintenance, i hate it. but if its going to make a $60 clutch replacement every gallon, maybe i'll start. lol
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Old 11-17-2010 | 09:17 PM
  #10190  
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Originally Posted by builtb16a



2 gallons max. maybe thats how long they last.. i wish i could get more out of it. its noisy as hell with the engine off. i can't hear it on the track.

now.. i must admit. once i set the mesh, with my quick change engine mounts, i NEVER move it again. would regularly re-meshing the gears make the gear wear last longer? lol

again, im the worst at maintenance, i hate it. but if its going to make a $60 clutch replacement every gallon, maybe i'll start. lol


yea the teeth look bad on it yea i whould try to remesh the gears once in a while because as you know losis flex so if you have a hard landing sometimes the mesh can move .

i do think that could make it last longer
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Old 11-17-2010 | 09:29 PM
  #10191  
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here's a spare.. not nearly as bad on the teeth. the drum is caked up, i could dremel it real quick and throw it in no big deal.. but they're starting to add up every other shoe replacement.

this one im sure isnt' as loud.. but how long are bell's lasting for you guys? how often do you check your mesh? when it makes noise?
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Old 11-17-2010 | 10:10 PM
  #10192  
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Originally Posted by Sein
His name is Harold and this is his email, [email protected]. I paid 153.00 shipped to my door for the 1267sg and 1268sg

Just shoot him an email letting him know which one you want; his reply is always quick.
Sounds like hlpresley (aka Elvis) may finally be taking care of business, but here's a thread of the experience I had with him.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/trader-f...ressley-3.html

Hope that he's learned his lesson!
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Old 11-18-2010 | 04:28 AM
  #10193  
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I had a problem with that guy too..he beat me down on 2 servos i was selling saying all his stuff got stolen, some long sob story..a week later there were up for sale from for almost double what he paid. He's just here to make $
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Old 11-18-2010 | 04:42 AM
  #10194  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
yea the teeth look bad on it yea i whould try to remesh the gears once in a while because as you know losis flex so if you have a hard landing sometimes the mesh can move .

i do think that could make it last longer
Also, the center diff can be eating up those bells if the teeth on it are also banged up.
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Old 11-18-2010 | 04:49 AM
  #10195  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
I have had good luck with the Robinson bell and I have heard very good things about the answer-rc losi bell. I don't like any of the losi bells.
I use the Robinson one for the most part. I still think the Robinson bell is one of the best. It is a bit heavier than the losi bells are, but you really can't feel that little of a difference on the track.
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Old 11-18-2010 | 04:53 AM
  #10196  
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I'VE USED THE ANSWER BELLS. THE WEAR IS GOOD BUT THEY R VERY NOISY EVEN WHEN NEW. THINK I'M GOIN BACK TO LOSI BELLS.
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Old 11-18-2010 | 05:19 AM
  #10197  
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I've got a totally noob problem!

I got the aluminum rear hub as a hop up. However, I am having difficulty disassembling the stock hubs from the dog bones, pins etc. Could anyone give me some guidance on this? I would like to use the parts from the stock hubs and transfer them to the aluminum ones - I am new to the hobby and I have been following the manual but it's still not clear to me.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 11-18-2010 | 05:57 AM
  #10198  
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Originally Posted by dnebout
Sounds like hlpresley (aka Elvis) may finally be taking care of business, but here's a thread of the experience I had with him.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/trader-f...ressley-3.html

Hope that he's learned his lesson!
Originally Posted by GMS_Racing
I had a problem with that guy too..he beat me down on 2 servos i was selling saying all his stuff got stolen, some long sob story..a week later there were up for sale from for almost double what he paid. He's just here to make $
Thanks guys, maybe I will pass on this guy.Good looking out..........
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Old 11-18-2010 | 05:58 AM
  #10199  
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Originally Posted by khannibal
I've got a totally noob problem!

I got the aluminum rear hub as a hop up. However, I am having difficulty disassembling the stock hubs from the dog bones, pins etc. Could anyone give me some guidance on this? I would like to use the parts from the stock hubs and transfer them to the aluminum ones - I am new to the hobby and I have been following the manual but it's still not clear to me.

Thanks in advance!
there is a set screw in the center of the axel. loosen that and then u can take the pin out that holds the hex on.the u can puch the axel through the bearings.
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Old 11-18-2010 | 06:30 AM
  #10200  
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Originally Posted by pballer2777
there is a set screw in the center of the axel. loosen that and then u can take the pin out that holds the hex on.the u can puch the axel through the bearings.
Thanks pballer! What did you use to take the pin out of the hex? I tried using my hex driver but the pin didn't budge!
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