Oops! Stripped Heat Sink Screw...
#1
Thread Starter
Tech Adept
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 178
Greetings,
Today I stripped one of my heat sink screws on my .21 engine. I think most of you know that's like the worst thing in the world that can happen to a r/c enthusiast. It's almost as bad as pouring a bowl a cereal and then moments later noticing you don't have any milk it's just dreadful...
I want to cry... What are some ways I can attempt to remove this stripped screw without damaging the engine if any? It's a 2.5mm hex screw btw ...
One attempt I was thinking was JB Welding a Hex Key to the screw and trying to get it off that way, but didn't think that would turn out to well ...
#4
#8
HAHAHA...thanks for the good giggle guys. Last I checked stripped is stripped, and first or last doesn't matter much. And yes, relieving pressure on all other screws will make the last screw tighter because the head will lift and put even more pressure on the single screw. That's why you just "crack" each screw and reseat lightly before actually loosening them
Tap and EZ-out or drill the head of the screw off (stop when you get to the engine's head and go easy and let the drill do the work), or using sharp needle nose pliers from the side... if that's even possible with your head. One of those will get it.
Tap and EZ-out or drill the head of the screw off (stop when you get to the engine's head and go easy and let the drill do the work), or using sharp needle nose pliers from the side... if that's even possible with your head. One of those will get it.
Last edited by makaluch; 10-08-2010 at 04:45 PM.
#9
No. Think about it. The head wants to go upwards to release the pressure of the screws holding it on. There are 4 screws(for arguments sake) each holding 1/4 of the pressure. Now take 3 away, where does that pressure have left to go? All to one screw, thus making it even harder to take off. Unless you have a lot of room between the sleeve and the part on the head that goes into the sleeve, which is a different issue, but in that case it would work.Maybe I'm way off, but this just seems like common sense. But I could be wrong, I have been awake WAY too long
And I know for a fact if you take off all but one lug nut on a car tire, it's a beotch to get that last one off, it's the same principal.
#13
If the hex in the screw head isn't totally rounded out.......try this.
Preheat the bolt somewhat with a soldering iron. Use a precision ground 2.5 tool, put a dab of valve lapping compound on the tip of the tool, insert it into the bolt, turn slowly.
It's worked for me.
Otherwise a sharp left-handed drill bit. It often "bites" into the bolt causing left-handed turning of the bolt..........presto!
Preheat the bolt somewhat with a soldering iron. Use a precision ground 2.5 tool, put a dab of valve lapping compound on the tip of the tool, insert it into the bolt, turn slowly.
It's worked for me.
Otherwise a sharp left-handed drill bit. It often "bites" into the bolt causing left-handed turning of the bolt..........presto!




