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Old 10-07-2010 | 09:38 PM
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Default Oops! Stripped Heat Sink Screw...


Greetings,
Today I stripped one of my heat sink screws on my .21 engine. I think most of you know that's like the worst thing in the world that can happen to a r/c enthusiast. It's almost as bad as pouring a bowl a cereal and then moments later noticing you don't have any milk it's just dreadful... I want to cry...

What are some ways I can attempt to remove this stripped screw without damaging the engine if any? It's a 2.5mm hex screw btw ...

One attempt I was thinking was JB Welding a Hex Key to the screw and trying to get it off that way, but didn't think that would turn out to well ...
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Old 10-07-2010 | 11:46 PM
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Just drill the head away, when removing the head there is enough flesh to get the rest out.
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Old 10-08-2010 | 02:43 PM
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Try taking out the other screws and try the stripped one last. Should be losser with the other screws out, taking the pressure off of it.
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Old 10-08-2010 | 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dayglo33
Try taking out the other screws and try the stripped one last. Should be losser with the other screws out, taking the pressure off of it.
I've personally found that to have the opposite affect. Think changing a tire on your real car.
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Old 10-08-2010 | 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by dayglo33
Try taking out the other screws and try the stripped one last. Should be losser with the other screws out, taking the pressure off of it.
+1
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Old 10-08-2010 | 04:02 PM
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best bet is to drill the head of the screw then unscrew it out with vice grip after motor head is off..
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Old 10-08-2010 | 04:20 PM
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Slo you are joking right?
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Old 10-08-2010 | 04:35 PM
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HAHAHA...thanks for the good giggle guys. Last I checked stripped is stripped, and first or last doesn't matter much. And yes, relieving pressure on all other screws will make the last screw tighter because the head will lift and put even more pressure on the single screw. That's why you just "crack" each screw and reseat lightly before actually loosening them

Tap and EZ-out or drill the head of the screw off (stop when you get to the engine's head and go easy and let the drill do the work), or using sharp needle nose pliers from the side... if that's even possible with your head. One of those will get it.

Last edited by makaluch; 10-08-2010 at 04:45 PM.
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Old 10-08-2010 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by dayglo33
Slo you are joking right?
No. Think about it. The head wants to go upwards to release the pressure of the screws holding it on. There are 4 screws(for arguments sake) each holding 1/4 of the pressure. Now take 3 away, where does that pressure have left to go? All to one screw, thus making it even harder to take off. Unless you have a lot of room between the sleeve and the part on the head that goes into the sleeve, which is a different issue, but in that case it would work.

Maybe I'm way off, but this just seems like common sense. But I could be wrong, I have been awake WAY too long And I know for a fact if you take off all but one lug nut on a car tire, it's a beotch to get that last one off, it's the same principal.
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Old 10-08-2010 | 09:50 PM
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Slo you are right it is common sense .. and its right.
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Old 10-08-2010 | 09:54 PM
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I think common sense just went out the door! I would try it first, if the screw isn't terribly stripped, before I get the drill out. Just saying.........
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Old 10-09-2010 | 02:57 AM
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find an imperial hex the next size up its usualy in the .00 of mm and gently tap it in OR try a slightly bigger TORX or STAR bit
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Old 10-09-2010 | 06:35 PM
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If the hex in the screw head isn't totally rounded out.......try this.

Preheat the bolt somewhat with a soldering iron. Use a precision ground 2.5 tool, put a dab of valve lapping compound on the tip of the tool, insert it into the bolt, turn slowly.

It's worked for me.

Otherwise a sharp left-handed drill bit. It often "bites" into the bolt causing left-handed turning of the bolt..........presto!
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Old 07-17-2013 | 07:49 PM
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I finally out today ... Damn and almost 3 years later no damage, no drills it just came right out with a new allen key...
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