Since you replaced the piston and sleeve I suggest you take your time, these take close to a gallon when new to break in and with a fresh piston and sleeve it should be the same. Try to keep your temps where they are for now and you will notice the more fuel you run the better it will perform. The fact that it feels a little soft on the bottom is it being a little rich and still tight, as you lean the HSN out when it breaks in you will gain power from the bottom to the top. You will want to use the LSN for fine tuning the idle and off idle performance, but if it idles fine for now just keep running it and try not to worry about a tune for a while.

http://www.rbproducts.com/mainEn.php...E01010-SHARK10

Interesting. Looks like the Shark 10 is nothing like the Shark 9.

B10 crank/case + revised 5 port with 1 exhaust. 198 header + 9mm restrictor.

Sounds like a truggy engine, wonder why they didn't do a balanced crank like they did for the shark 9?

I think next up is for me to stuff a shark 9 crank into a B10 and see what happens... Either that or a B10 p/s into a shark 9 guts.

Says here in the manual it's a 5+2 port with 3 exhaust (MES)

http://www.rbproducts.com/explose/RB...10-SHARK10.pdf

interesting engine

Well after braking in my K9, i never really used it after because i had a lean bog problem, i went a head and sealed up the back plate and fixed my issues, ran the motor this past week/weekend at the bryons fuel challenge and the motor was on fire. not even a gallon on it and she was ripping around. run time was a little over 8 possibly? never pushed it but was awesome. Was able to put the RB into the expert B main!

The engine is still fat and temps are still in the 220 range.

I have about 3/4 gallon on it now. maybe a little more. I started with 1 1/2 gallons and I have 1/2 left. But I have been trying to get another engine running as well. Hopefully, it holds up. Otherwise, I might have to break down save for something more current.

I hope I can keep up with some of the newer engines out there.

Werks B5.

Had a huge wreck on our local track BIG jump which I'm sure we all have done. Continued on in the race and had a flame out 2 min after wreck. Thought that was strange so checked it out and found that the air filter had come off.(crappy cheep cable tie had broken). Pulled off back plate and removed glow plug to flush out engine with fuel and all seemed ok not really scratched or scored. Reassembled and seemed ok but kept flaming out. Got home and checked out the motor and found that I had screwed up on re assembly and it looks like I've done the piston skirt and back plate thing.
Anyway, just want to know where the best place is to get a new rod, piston , sleve and bearings for a B9. And should I go ceramic bearings. Does anyone do a complete rebuild kit.

Bit pissed about it but on a good note the wife gave me permission to buy a new motor and the B10 is now run in!!

a main hobbies for the B9 rebuild. Make sure you run 1 gallon through that RB B10 before you race tune it and always use a heat gun to heat it up before starting it. The RB B10 is a awsome engine.

I agree. Give A-main a buzz.

They ship quickly and stock

Buggy 9 did you say??

I checked stock, they are out.


here is there part number RBD01146-53] This the piston/sleeve/con rod.

Price is $169.00. Same price as my WS7. Cool.

Towers has it in stock.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXWDZ9&P=SM

Use a coupon and it could be cheaper than amain.

I don't know. RB always used the ports as a part of P/S #. ie. 01146-53 (5 + 3 exhaust.) 01146-33 (3 + 3 exhaust.) the p/s has a 501 as last part of the code on this thing. We'll have to see when it comes out

If you ever had a C6USA it will perform very similar to that engine. I have an on-road crank that is even more aggressive than the USA crank I run sometimes for truggy too. Overall I really like the Shark9 crank the most tho as I seem to get the best mileage with it.

alright i raced today with the #77 odonnell plug it defielty did run better and i dint have any flameouts at all and it give me a bit more punch. well in my, third heat my idle woulnt come down it was high so i went back to, my pit table and i tried to slow the idle down and richen the low end up a bit and it woulnt come back down to idle ? i think maybe i have a broken clutch spring or the clutch bearings went bad on me ? it was running fine during practice and a for a few heats.

by the way im getting the 53 pipe for sure now but would i have to go to a 50/14 gearing since thats a more torquey pipe than the 86 ? i was getting catch in the corners by some people because of the lack of torque.

Might be the clutch or the lsn is rich. Run the same gearing with 053.

yea, i will check the clutch as for the lsn it might be a tad rich or so but i forgot to mention that it would idle back down a little when i hit the throttle and than it wouldnt it so im thinking yea its ethier something with the clutch system or the lsn too rich.

sounds like the lsn is rich and not a clutch problem