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Old 09-27-2010 | 11:09 AM
  #1591  
Lille-bror's Avatar
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Default Killer engines

Hi.

What plug, shim, nitro percent, pipe and header do you guys use with your Killer engines in a buggy?

Thanks in advance
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Old 09-27-2010 | 11:58 AM
  #1592  
cdc
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Originally Posted by Lille-bror
Hi.

What plug, shim, nitro percent, pipe and header do you guys use with your Killer engines in a buggy?

Thanks in advance
I don,t run a RB k10. Though i recommend using a RB #6 turbo plug or o,donnell 97t. 30% fuel. RB 2045 tuned pipe.

Last edited by cdc; 09-27-2010 at 02:03 PM.
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Old 09-27-2010 | 01:59 PM
  #1593  
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Originally Posted by Lille-bror
Hi.

What plug, shim, nitro percent, pipe and header do you guys use with your Killer engines in a buggy?

Thanks in advance
You can always peek in the JL .21 thread in here as they are basically the same engine. A lot of guys have been trying different pipes and head shims in theirs but I have not kept up on what people like the most.
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Old 09-27-2010 | 02:43 PM
  #1594  
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Talking Throttle spring

Well, I've been doing this little standard trick with the spring since I started

with nitro in the 90s. Anyway. what I am finding is that the shaft is not sliding

quickly enough to close the throttle. The shaft is straight and the hole where

the shaft mounts on the servo horn is also free. Looks like the carb is not

allowing itself to close quickly. If I push with a finger, then it closes quickly, but

if I close with the servo, the linkage stays out and slowly goes back in.

Hmm. I'll readjust my servo horm to be 1 slot off and that way I can put more

pressure from the spring without loosing brakes.
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Old 09-27-2010 | 04:38 PM
  #1595  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
You can always peek in the JL .21 thread in here as they are basically the same engine. A lot of guys have been trying different pipes and head shims in theirs but I have not kept up on what people like the most.
Chris
Are you coming down for Bryons at the Pit this week.
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Old 09-27-2010 | 11:26 PM
  #1596  
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Originally Posted by cdc
I don,t run a RB k10. Though i recommend using a RB #6 turbo plug or o,donnell 97t. 30% fuel. RB 2045 tuned pipe.
Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
You can always peek in the JL .21 thread in here as they are basically the same engine. A lot of guys have been trying different pipes and head shims in theirs but I have not kept up on what people like the most.
Thanks guys.

I´ll check that thread
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Old 09-28-2010 | 06:10 AM
  #1597  
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Originally Posted by diamondracing
Chris
Are you coming down for Bryons at the Pit this week.
Man I wish, I just had surgery for a hernia and it really put me outta commission!!! I did not expect it to lay me out like it has. My daughter lives in Anthem, Az tho so I will be making several trips out there this winter!!!
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Old 09-28-2010 | 06:43 AM
  #1598  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
Man I wish, I just had surgery for a hernia and it really put me outta commission!!! I did not expect it to lay me out like it has. My daughter lives in Anthem, Az tho so I will be making several trips out there this winter!!!
Sorry to hear of your surgery, it's not fun, I had that, about 10 years ago, what a nut buster! Good luck.
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Old 09-28-2010 | 01:46 PM
  #1599  
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Originally Posted by Dr. Evil
Well, I've been doing this little standard trick with the spring since I started with nitro in the 90s. Anyway. what I am finding is that the shaft is not sliding quickly enough to close the throttle. The shaft is straight and the hole where the shaft mounts on the servo horn is also free. Looks like the carb is not allowing itself to close quickly. If I push with a finger, then it closes quickly, but if I close with the servo, the linkage stays out and slowly goes back in. Hmm. I'll readjust my servo horm to be 1 slot off and that way I can put more pressure from the spring without loosing brakes.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...e-Return-Bands

Find them much better than throttle return springs.
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Old 09-30-2010 | 09:47 PM
  #1600  
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i have a question about sealing the carb on a rb im using lucky 7 sealent are you supposed to seal above the carb o-ring or the bottom ? i used the sealet on the top and slided on the o-ring while it was still wet not dry and mounted the carb. i only used a little bit of the sealent.
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Old 09-30-2010 | 09:48 PM
  #1601  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
i have a question about sealing the carb on a rb im using lucky 7 sealent are you supposed to seal above the carb o-ring or the bottom ? i used the sealet on the top and slided on the o-ring while it was still wet not dry and mounted the carb. i only used a little bit of the sealent.
why are you sealing the carb.
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Old 09-30-2010 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by cdc
why are you sealing the carb.

just for extra insurance.
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Old 09-30-2010 | 09:49 PM
  #1603  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
i have a question about sealing the carb on a rb im using lucky 7 sealent are you supposed to seal above the carb o-ring or the bottom ? i used the sealet on the top and slided on the o-ring while it was still wet not dry and mounted the carb. i only used a little bit of the sealent.
I would suggest you ask in the Lucky7 thread, I have never had to seal my engines. If there is a leak new o-rings fixes it for me.
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Old 09-30-2010 | 09:56 PM
  #1604  
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Originally Posted by Chris Peralta
I would suggest you ask in the Lucky7 thread, I have never had to seal my engines. If there is a leak new o-rings fixes it for me.
well i dont think its a leak and the carb o-ring looks fine its a nova carb ring its thick but it dint look damage its not old. maybe should just remove the sealent than.


cdc on here said to remove a shim to run 20% with a hot/meduim plug what do you think of that will it do any harm ? the s5 has 2 shims on it already but it hasnt ran right with a meduim plug so i was thinking there was a leak.

the shims are .20 mm.
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Old 09-30-2010 | 10:03 PM
  #1605  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
well i dont think its a leak and the carb o-ring looks fine its a nova carb ring its thick but it dint look damage its not old. maybe should just remove the sealent than.


cdc on here said to remove a shim to run 20% with a hot/meduim plug what do you think of that will it do any harm ? the s5 has 2 shims on it already but it hasnt ran right with a meduim plug so i was thinking there was a leak.

the shims are .20 mm.
If you know the signs to watch for to know if your engine is pre detonating you can try pulling a shim. I would stay with a medium plug to start. The S5 is not a high performance engine it is more of a mid level engine. I have felt an S5 be somewhat underpowered in a buggy for my driving style so in a truggy it will never perform like a high end race engine.

Just know that you can destroy an engine if you run it while its pre-detonating.
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