Yes if those exhaust gaskets are bad you will have all kinds of tuning issues. That is the biggest issue I see people having at my local tracks. Many times the gasket between the header and the pipe is soo bad you can see oil has leaked and the header and pipe get a lot of buildup at the connection.

Well, I have no leaks one either engine.

I think maybe it's on the o-rings. That's the only think I can think of..

Aluminum washers on the Carb are crushed.

Maybe that could be it??

Well those washers are crush washers, when you tighten the HSN they crush and seal. If they are leaking you will see buildup around the HSN where they seal. I would really try to retune the way I suggested a few posts back. It's got to be either a tune issue or a fuel system issue.

New RB shark 10
http://www.neobuggy.net/modules/news...p?storyid=9007

Go Rinard.

Does anyone have base line needle settings for a RB Worlds S7??

Thanks

stock settings:

LSN: 5 turns out from flush

HSN: 3.5 turns out from flush

Would that be turns from bottom??

I think 5 turns from flush would put the needle out.


right??

Hi Chris.

It looks like settings are from bottom to out.

Buggy started really rich. Needed to lean out, but, that was the trick.

Idle issue has not gone away, but, it's no where as bad as it was. (Idles high

after engine is up to temp and engine is being reved. Stayed high for some

time, now it drops almost immediately. 1 - 2 seconds off) Wish I could say

the same for my Rossi engine. That puppy will stay at high rpm when you let

off the throttle. If you use brakes, it comes down. Go figure. (Hmm.

Clutch maybe?? Doesn't die if you stop though)

Might be the clutch

If using brakes brings the idle down then your trims are not set correctly and when you go to neutral your throttle is not closing all the way.

Well, that's what I had already suspected. I see the linkage upon getting off the throttle goes to newtral, but, either the carb doesn't close all the way or the spring on the linkage isn't closing it. If I push the spring further, then I won't have any brakes.

If I push the linkage rod connecting to the carb, then it closed. I have spacing on the backside of the linkage for the carb, but, the space is only taken up slowly upon closure unless I use the brakes.

The linkage rod seems straight, the linkage plastic piece that holds the rod seems clear. The carb doesn't seem hard to close and it's all in a straight line.

But, it closes slowly at the very end. I'll check the servo. maybe there is some
slop in the gears which would only give full movement in one direction.

Check to see if your servo horn screw is loose, the locking collar on the outside of your throttle may need to be spaced out from the servo.

That is exactly what your problem is. That spring on your throttle bar should be tight at neutral and should push the throttle closed at neutral, if there is any slop in that spring you are not set up properly. If you give your radio a little brake trim this should move the throttle arm in the direction you want, if it starts to engage your brakes when you do that you may have to adjust your brake collars so they are not engaged when your at neutral and the throttle is being fully closed. If this fixes your issue you should set your brake trim back to 0 and make the adjustments from the subtrim setting in your radio.