One thing some people don't think about is checking their droop. If you don't have enough droop in the front your contact patch might be a lot smaller on throttle.

i see what, your saying but when i used 3 degress toe in on the rear it helped a, lot stabity wise and the 3 degress anti really helped on my eight-t .

yea i could, try removing the front swaybar one time i use the old sway bars from the first gen.

i dont race , on a blue groove track by the way my track is smooth and than it gets rutty and dry.

I would check your droop. Try less droop in the rear.

Lapper beat me to it.

3/3 is stock. He isn't looking for stability, he is looking for onpower steering. You cannot take information from the 1.0 and use it on the 2.0, they are completely different cars.

ok yea i know, they are diffrent but you cant use some information on a 1.0 t and use it on a 2.0 t ?

correct me if I'm wrong, on accel wieght is going to transfer to the rear (squat down) and ft end rise up, wouldn't running less droop in the ft make more sence since it would limit the amount it would rise, therefore maintaining "good" steering geometry as in being offpower?

Since they handle so different-1.0 being twitchy and bad in bumps,2.0 being smooth and great in bumps, you shouldn't use the same setup information from the 1.0 to the 2.0 i.e. what works on the 1.0 might not on the 2.0. Longer chassis, longer shocks, longer a arms, it really makes a different car and you might be heading people in the wrong direction from your last few posts.

servo saver check it

X2

Couple things I would try. Shortened rear camber links. For V1 tower run lower on the tower and A on the hub. You'll need to shorten the links some or buy a set of the 107mm front links.

Check your servo saver. It needs to be very tight.

Check your ride height. Ride height is essential on the losi cars. 39mm front and 42mm rear. You have to make sure you're setting ride height at the track on race day. Even a slight difference in ambient temperature can change your ride height. Half tank of fuel, and everything on the truck ready to go.

How's the tire situation? Is it possible that this problem is coming from running the wrong tires for your surface? Tires are the single biggest factor in setup.

What shock pistons and oils are you running? What's your droop setting front and rear? Give us some more info.

I know it has been suggested to try the short ackerman. That may or may not help you. The short ackerman will give you a bunch more turn in off power, but may not help with on-power steering.

Thanks Kayl! If you have a little artistic ability and A LOT of determination you can do it. Just takes some practice and trial and error.

Almost the same as being a competitive racer!



...Jim
W.E.D.
www.wedjim.com

3/3 is stock on the 1.0.

Thanks for all the suggestions, I have come to the conclusion that my engine was not tuned right..... So when I flip its always in slow, technical sections of the track, my guess is that it was loading up when in these sections and cleared out when I hit the straights. One of the marshals told my pit man that it was leaking fuel. When I came in the pits it was no fuel in the tank, or on the tank, chassis, servos etc... Although it idled great and ran good, it was really fat on bottom. Went back to factory settings and tuned from there. Ran about 8 tanks and flipped alot didnt flame.....

Is the referring to: Toe and Anti Squat

Stock on the 1.0 - the Orignial settings are:


Rear

2T= 2° of Toe In
3A= 3° of Antisquat


They came out with LOSA1749 to make it 3 degrees

n/m I messed that up lol.

Cool tuning can always be the issue with flame outs. But both engines were tuned wrong?