Hey Nick i was thinking of trying these out, i currently run yeah racing lipos, only thing i dont like is i cant run the foam inside so its putting a lot of pressure on the lipo. do you run yours with foam?



AND TC5, take a pic. ive had my 2.0 chassis on my buggy down to 1.5 with zero issues other then handling lol

whats was wrong with the handling with the 2.0 chassis ? im guessing it was pushing ?

yea i wish i could take, a pic but i lost my plug for my camera and my computer doesnt have a camera on it.

but for now how much would, you think that the flex chassis for the 1.0 would help when the track gets rough ?

Make sure there is nothing in the diff housing also!! Dirt in the holes??

oh il check that out i wouldnt be suprised if there is some.

it just flex so much cause it was thin, i mean it wasnt undriveable just didnt get as much traction.btw this is on my buggy not truggy. and do you have a phone that can take/send pics? if so ill give you my number and ill post it

thanks but i think i know what the problem is though .
but how much do you think, the flex chassis for the 1.0 t would help when the track gets rough ?

It'll help but it ain't gonna be a 2.0. So AGAIN I will say... Ditch the 1.0 and get a 2.0.

The flex chassis is a huge improvement I ran a 1.0 and with the flex chassis it drove easier. Why not just go for the 2.0 flex chassis and a rear center driveline?

i made my mind up than il, get the 2.0 flex chassis the cheapest i found it at was at thercshack.com for around $90 something.

but it would be cheaper, to get the 1.0 flex chassis though since i dont need to get a new body and a couple more things.

i know il get the 2.0 next season, i know its not gone to be a 2.0 but it should defieltly handle better. with a diffrent chassis 1.0 t or a 2.0 t chassis flex chassis.

i have to say though the 1.0 t rocks when the track is smooth !

hey guys im having an issue with my low end on my engine, it seems sluggish and i think it might be cause its a lil older. i was thinking if i were to put in stiffer clutch springs then the stockers would this help the bottom? i figured if the engine engaged at a higher rpm the sluggish bottom wouldnt be as bad. i no the tune is good cause i have great smoke trail and the temps r 220 and the engines got 10 gallons on it so it deff is cause its ok. but the thing still works good mid to top.

im guessing you are using the alum/plastic shoes ? if so use a all alum clutch setup with ethier a green/gold spring setup or a all gold setup.

it does depend on what kind, of engine you have and get the engine running at 235 to around 245 depending, on what engine you have they all run diffrent.

you could change you pipe, or a header but cluch springs are cheaper for instance i run a hobby 9, rb s5 engine on my truggy and i think i have to go to a all gold setup. for more punch and stay away from the hard alum shoes omg lol.

the truck is wider!...i have measured this many of times!...even with the extenders and the 0 offset wheels on the 1.0,the 2.0 is still wider!...anyways nobody is saying the 1.0 is better just saying it can be competitive!

OK you're right. I'm wrong...

The 2.0 is a whopping 2.3mm wider per side for a grand total of 4.6mm wider. You REALLY need more room to pass Huh?? LMAO. That's HILARIOUS.

And about the 1.0 being competitive... Same driver or even same level of driver, the 2.0 will win every time.

well for club racing the 1.0 t, is competive with a few suspension tunes.
your right the 2.0 is wider i looked at it.

yea i can see if its the same driver, and a 2.0 t would win but thats if he doesnt crash for one. but what level are you talking about though club racing ?