8T 2.0
08-11-2010 | 01:11 PM
#8521
08-11-2010 | 01:13 PM
#8522
Tech Prophet
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
I have no problem with you asking questions here. I just LMAO at the 1.0 is better than 2.0 argument that some people like to make.
tc5, I'd just run what you have for the rest of the year and get a 2.0 when you're ready. I've seen some REALLY worn out chassis' still run fine.
tc5, I'd just run what you have for the rest of the year and get a 2.0 when you're ready. I've seen some REALLY worn out chassis' still run fine.
yea but the rear buckhead screw, wont even screw in all the way so i think its time to get a new one the screw wont get counterstuck with the chassis hole.
08-11-2010 | 01:16 PM
#8523
Instead of wasting you're money on a chassis, rear shock tower, body, body mounts just sell the 1.0 and buy a used 2.0 by the time you buy all that stuff you can spend the same amount and upgrade to a full 2.0 I have had both trucks and the 1.0 doesn't compare to the 2.0.
08-11-2010 | 01:19 PM
#8524
Instead of wasting you're money on a chassis, rear shock tower, body, body mounts just sell the 1.0 and buy a used 2.0 by the time you buy all that stuff you can spend the same amount and upgrade to a full 2.0 I have had both trucks and the 1.0 doesn't compare to the 2.0.
08-11-2010 | 01:24 PM
#8525
Tech Elite
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,648
From: Aurora, Colorado
I have no problem with you asking questions here. I just LMAO at the 1.0 is better than 2.0 argument that some people like to make.
tc5, I'd just run what you have for the rest of the year and get a 2.0 when you're ready. I've seen some REALLY worn out chassis' still run fine.
tc5, I'd just run what you have for the rest of the year and get a 2.0 when you're ready. I've seen some REALLY worn out chassis' still run fine.
08-11-2010 | 01:35 PM
#8527
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,113
Do this, take the rear of the car out and measure the thickness of the chassis where the rear toe in plate sits with a set of digital calipers and tell us how thick it is. I know some people who have Mugen's who run this chassis until it is less than 1mm thin and they cannot access the screws. DE skip plates are well worth it, front and rear!
08-11-2010 | 01:41 PM
#8528
Tech Prophet
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
Do this, take the rear of the car out and measure the thickness of the chassis where the rear toe in plate sits with a set of digital calipers and tell us how thick it is. I know some people who have Mugen's who run this chassis until it is less than 1mm thin and they cannot access the screws. DE skip plates are well worth it, front and rear!
i do that but the screws wont, go into the rear buckhead all the way that cant be good.
its 4.82 mm in the rear but like it said, the screws on the bottom of the rear plate dont screw in all the way and there fully tighten. the screws on the bottom go into the buckhead and are fully counterstuck.
Last edited by tc5 man; 08-11-2010 at 01:52 PM.
08-11-2010 | 02:08 PM
#8529
i do that but the screws wont, go into the rear buckhead all the way that cant be good.
its 4.82 mm in the rear but like it said, the screws on the bottom of the rear plate dont screw in all the way and there fully tighten. the screws on the bottom go into the buckhead and are fully counterstuck.
its 4.82 mm in the rear but like it said, the screws on the bottom of the rear plate dont screw in all the way and there fully tighten. the screws on the bottom go into the buckhead and are fully counterstuck.
Question are you trying to use a new screw in a worn chassis? If so, the screw head is not going to fully countersink. As the chassis wears out, the screws will wear too. Unless the chassis is super thin at the rear like under 2mm, you should be fine to finish out the season.
08-11-2010 | 02:10 PM
#8530
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,113
i do that but the screws wont, go into the rear buckhead all the way that cant be good.
its 4.82 mm in the rear but like it said, the screws on the bottom of the rear plate dont screw in all the way and there fully tighten. the screws on the bottom go into the buckhead and are fully counterstuck.
its 4.82 mm in the rear but like it said, the screws on the bottom of the rear plate dont screw in all the way and there fully tighten. the screws on the bottom go into the buckhead and are fully counterstuck.
It can't be 4.82mm, the chassis is only a 4mm chassis! What king of digital calipers are you using? It would help if you took a picture of your problem.
08-11-2010 | 02:35 PM
#8531
Tech Prophet
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
its 3.10 mm in the rear and, the screws that go into the rear bulkhead are the same leagth and size and tread also. the rear bulkhead is all the way in with the chassis
08-11-2010 | 02:41 PM
#8532
08-11-2010 | 02:45 PM
#8533
Tech Prophet
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
08-11-2010 | 02:50 PM
#8535
Tech Prophet
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa