Community
Wiki Posts
Search

8T 2.0

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 07-25-2010 | 04:56 PM
  #8191  
tc5 man's Avatar
Tech Prophet
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
Default

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Something is wrong. The drive shafts shouldn't even come close to popping out with any negative camber setting. Make sure your droop is set right. Front should be 110mm rear should be 127mm.



Something is wrong with linkage setup. Without the losi split diff mount, you have to be really careful when setting the linkages up. It is very common for a linkage setup to only cause a carb to bind once at running temperature.

The other thing is, carbs can develop burrs on the inside of the slide where the idle screw slots in. This happens over time when running with an improper linkage setup. You can use the edge of an hobby knife blade to remove the burrs and then follow with a scotch brite pad or very fine sand paper/emery cloth to smooth it out further. Or just replace the slide. The idle screw itself can also burr up, so that should be sanded as well.



Try the setup posted below. It will take care of ANY steering problems you have.













well with the stock diff mount, you pretty much have to have the carb angle turned to the right where the carb boot isnt hitting the diff mount, i think i might have a little bit of blur on the slide carb .

i think a drop of after, run maybe should help it even if you have the linkage pulling straight it still does it after a while.


i wonder why losi made it like, that where you have to turn the carb at a bit of a angle ?
tc5 man is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 05:01 PM
  #8192  
JAMMINKRAZY's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,575
From: Pittsburgh PA
Default

Originally Posted by tc5 man
well with the stock diff mount, you pretty much have to have the carb angle turned to the right where the carb boot isnt hitting the diff mount, i think i might have a little bit of blur on the slide carb .

i think a drop of after, run maybe should help it even if you have the linkage pulling straight it still does it after a while.


i wonder why losi made it like, that where you have to turn the carb at a bit of a angle ?
Its like that because that was the best chassis layout. Everything is packed so tightly that there really isn't any other option. Simple solution... Take some time to set it up correctly and you won't have a problem. And no, carbs don't develop burrs unless there is something wrong with your linkage. At least not big enough burrs to cause a bind.
JAMMINKRAZY is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 05:04 PM
  #8193  
tc5 man's Avatar
Tech Prophet
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
Default

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Its like that because that was the best chassis layout. Everything is packed so tightly that there really isn't any other option. Simple solution... Take some time to set it up correctly and you won't have a problem. And no, carbs don't develop burrs unless there is something wrong with your linkage. At least not big enough burrs to cause a bind.




i got you i set the throttle linkage, up the way the losi manuel says too.

im pretty sure looking at the linkage, it looks like its pulling straight maybe not though.

its not a big blur i think just a little one .
tc5 man is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 05:07 PM
  #8194  
JAMMINKRAZY's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,575
From: Pittsburgh PA
Default

Originally Posted by tc5 man
i got you i set the throttle linkage, up the way the losi manuel says too.

im pretty sure looking at the linkage, it looks like its pulling straight maybe not though.

its not a big blur i think just a little one .
Shouldn't be there if everything is setup correctly, but if it is you will need to remove it or replace the slide.
JAMMINKRAZY is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 05:18 PM
  #8195  
CHOAS's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 940
From: Spring Mountain PA
Default

Originally Posted by shady3031
Be sure to take your front hinge pins out and check them everytime I have seen a losi truck have a driveshaft pop out it has hasd a bent hinge pin, doesn't really effect performance (binding or anything) just allows the dog bone to pop out.
I have bent a few on my truck and am now using M2C hardened hinge pins.
I bent the hinge pins twice.The second time it oblonged the hole in the arm.Then it rounded off the end of the diff cup from popping out all the time.. After struggling with the one side falling out numerous times I changed the pin, arm and dif cup,problem solved.

Last edited by CHOAS; 07-25-2010 at 05:30 PM.
CHOAS is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 05:29 PM
  #8196  
CHOAS's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 940
From: Spring Mountain PA
Default

[QUOTE=TheFcuddy;7716290]

On a separate note, my truggy hates to turn./QUOTE]

I am struggling with a tight in and tight in the middle on power. Coming off is fine. I did have the problem with the screws backing out and hitting the plate.With that fixed It still feels a little snug in. I have found tire selection has a significant effect on front grip . Still going to try a few things with set up.

This things a whole different animal than the Revo !
CHOAS is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 05:34 PM
  #8197  
tc5 man's Avatar
Tech Prophet
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
Default

[QUOTE=CHOAS;7717446]
Originally Posted by TheFcuddy

On a separate note, my truggy hates to turn./QUOTE]

I am struggling with a tight in and tight in the middle on power. Coming off is fine. I did have the problem with the screws backing out and hitting the plate.With that fixed It still feels a little snug in. I have found tire selection has a significant effect on front grip . Still going to try a few things with set up.

This things a whole different animal than the Revo !







i coulnt catch up to you, in the sportsman truggy b main i was in second the time some how. my steering rack screw got loose and had no turn in lol.

im gone to try the i-beams, the city blocks soft all around suck at the hut.
when its bone dry.
tc5 man is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 05:58 PM
  #8198  
deadmancourt's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (11)
 
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 2,574
From: Menifee,Ca
Default

well i went to the hobby shop and warrantied the hitec hs-645mg and paid $20 for the hs-5645mg...i only had $20 so i hope this will work!...the 645 had 133 oz of torque and the 5645 has 168!...i was going to get a nice airtronics for the same price but hitec is the only company that allows shops to exchange bad servos on the spot!...so i went with the hitec till it blows and then i will just keep warranting it till i get $50 more to get a 7955tg!
deadmancourt is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 08:05 PM
  #8199  
TheFcuddy's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 388
From: Philadelphia, PA
Default

Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Something is wrong. The drive shafts shouldn't even come close to popping out with any negative camber setting. Make sure your droop is set right. Front should be 110mm rear should be 127mm.



Something is wrong with linkage setup. Without the losi split diff mount, you have to be really careful when setting the linkages up. It is very common for a linkage setup to only cause a carb to bind once at running temperature.

The other thing is, carbs can develop burrs on the inside of the slide where the idle screw slots in. This happens over time when running with an improper linkage setup. You can use the edge of an hobby knife blade to remove the burrs and then follow with a scotch brite pad or very fine sand paper/emery cloth to smooth it out further. Or just replace the slide. The idle screw itself can also burr up, so that should be sanded as well.



Try the setup posted below. It will take care of ANY steering problems you have.
I will plug your numbers in and report back. Thank you.
TheFcuddy is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 08:49 PM
  #8200  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 528
From: Marble Falls, Texas
Default

Originally Posted by tc5 man
well with the stock diff mount, you pretty much have to have the carb angle turned to the right where the carb boot isnt hitting the diff mount, i think i might have a little bit of blur on the slide carb .

i think a drop of after, run maybe should help it even if you have the linkage pulling straight it still does it after a while.


i wonder why losi made it like, that where you have to turn the carb at a bit of a angle ?
Dude, Im serious...i have worked on this truck for DAYS. Tried every angle possible, 5-6 different carbs, different motors, different everything!! And i would say its just me...but i have seen 3 in one race day with the same problem and another buddy of mine had the same issue earlier in the year. This carb sticking thing is a HUGE deal. Everything looks SPOT ON! You can put a dot of lube and it will work great for bout 3 laps, then start it all over again. That lead me to think that the fuel was low on oil content and just drying out the slide so we switched that. No gain!! Its been an ongoing issue just wondering how many others are having the same problem?
motoclay is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 09:05 PM
  #8201  
tc5 man's Avatar
Tech Prophet
 
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 16,997
From: levittown pa
Default

Originally Posted by motoclay
Dude, Im serious...i have worked on this truck for DAYS. Tried every angle possible, 5-6 different carbs, different motors, different everything!! And i would say its just me...but i have seen 3 in one race day with the same problem and another buddy of mine had the same issue earlier in the year. This carb sticking thing is a HUGE deal. Everything looks SPOT ON! You can put a dot of lube and it will work great for bout 3 laps, then start it all over again. That lead me to think that the fuel was low on oil content and just drying out the slide so we switched that. No gain!! Its been an ongoing issue just wondering how many others are having the same problem?





i guess what you could do , is see if theres dirt stuck inside the carb boot that could cause it also.


trust me i know how it is when the throttle gets stuck.
tc5 man is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 10:04 PM
  #8202  
Frank L's Avatar
Tech Lord
iTrader: (148)
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 12,520
From: NorCal
Default

No issue here with any carve sticking. May e you just need a stronger servo? Just a suggestion.
Frank L is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 10:15 PM
  #8203  
JAMMINKRAZY's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (17)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,575
From: Pittsburgh PA
Default

Originally Posted by Frank L
No issue here with any carve sticking. May e you just need a stronger servo? Just a suggestion.
Actually I think a stronger servo would probably just dig an even bigger burr into the carb slide. IMO it can't be anything but a linkage problem.

What kind of engines(carbs) is this happening with?
JAMMINKRAZY is offline  
Old 07-25-2010 | 10:41 PM
  #8204  
bigjayjay1's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (87)
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,614
Default

Originally Posted by tc5 man
i guess what you could do , is see if theres dirt stuck inside the carb boot that could cause it also.


trust me i know how it is when the throttle gets stuck.



This is a common problem if the linkage isnt setup correctly take the throttle linkage and hit it with some light sand paper you probably have spurs on the linkage from constant binding. Have not read the whole back thread if it was mentioned good luck.
bigjayjay1 is offline  
Old 07-26-2010 | 04:06 AM
  #8205  
offroad racer's Avatar
Tech Regular
 
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 357
From: Appleton Wisconsin
Default

I was just having the same problem with my buggy yesterday.
offroad racer is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.