2LikesGo-Tech Engines Thread
06-30-2010 | 12:20 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
Changed my clutch to answer rc alum long life low wear with 1.1 springs,
Have kept retuning the engine from flush as the tune isn't right, mostly due to changing restricters, air temps and using different tracks,
have had the engine with good top end with no bottom and visa versa but always with the plug issue, I have used 11 plugs in 2 1/2 gallon now.
One of the main reasons for retuning though is kind people help tune it, first they up the idle then tune it by leaning the top end about 2 turns in, I know this isn,t right but hate to bash kind offers, engine runs reasonably well but blows plugs, cuts and just isn't the powerful engine i keep being told it is supposed to be so set back to flush and try again when they leave.
Would really like to be able to crack this tuning melarchy as I get bad quals all the time and loose 2 many laps in finals, I know i am faster than what results im getting but obviously loose 2 much time with cuts, was 2/3 of a lap ahead last sun but ended up 5th after 3 cuts, drives me mad.
Have tried to use Griz paragraph but sometimes the LSN needs to go in 2 1/2 to 3 turns to get the engine to cut out between 5 - 7 secs. when on the track and hot it bogs?
Have kept retuning the engine from flush as the tune isn't right, mostly due to changing restricters, air temps and using different tracks,
have had the engine with good top end with no bottom and visa versa but always with the plug issue, I have used 11 plugs in 2 1/2 gallon now.
One of the main reasons for retuning though is kind people help tune it, first they up the idle then tune it by leaning the top end about 2 turns in, I know this isn,t right but hate to bash kind offers, engine runs reasonably well but blows plugs, cuts and just isn't the powerful engine i keep being told it is supposed to be so set back to flush and try again when they leave.
Would really like to be able to crack this tuning melarchy as I get bad quals all the time and loose 2 many laps in finals, I know i am faster than what results im getting but obviously loose 2 much time with cuts, was 2/3 of a lap ahead last sun but ended up 5th after 3 cuts, drives me mad.
Have tried to use Griz paragraph but sometimes the LSN needs to go in 2 1/2 to 3 turns to get the engine to cut out between 5 - 7 secs. when on the track and hot it bogs?
They are committing all the cardinal sins - wide idle gap, rich bottom, super lean top.
Definitly set idle gap at .7mm and follow the instructions on my site (PM'd you).
06-30-2010 | 12:27 PM
I had the helpful tuners when I was a noob....they are trying to tune your long needle carb like a short needle carb...politely tell them to go jump in a lake.. then follow tuning above..I would take the time to just blow out the carb and needle seats and reseal everything..can't hurt and at least eliminates that from the equation..gimme a sec and i'll post the link to grizz1's guide
go here http://www.go-racing.co.nz/ and click tech tips...
go here http://www.go-racing.co.nz/ and click tech tips...
07-02-2010 | 01:39 PM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 52
From: Birmingham
Have stripped the engine down to have a look at the carb etc, the seal on the carb has split and the front bearing has play in it, the needles were not the cleanest either, think any one of these problems may be giving me tuning problems, there is slight wear on the conrod as well, I will be replacing the conrod, bearings and seals prior to rebuilding the engine to ensure I start tuning in a good position. Question - do you think the play in the front bearing has caused me problems with my clutch bearings? I use the answer rc bearings and they last about 25 mins running before collapsing?
07-02-2010 | 01:41 PM
Tech Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 891
From: Texas
Have stripped the engine down to have a look at the carb etc, the seal on the carb has split and the front bearing has play in it, the needles were not the cleanest either, think any one of these problems may be giving me tuning problems, there is slight wear on the conrod as well, I will be replacing the conrod, bearings and seals prior to rebuilding the engine to ensure I start tuning in a good position. Question - Is it really worth fitting the ceramic rear bearing for the extra cost over the standard bearing?
07-02-2010 | 02:59 PM
Tech Elite
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 2,983
From: Auckland, New Zealand
07-02-2010 | 11:27 PM
Answer-RC Has both the front and rear ceramic engine bearings.
$15.00 Front.
$30.50 Rear.
Check with MassiveMods about these bearings.
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...&cPath=28_5_20
$15.00 Front.
$30.50 Rear.
Check with MassiveMods about these bearings.
http://answer-rcusa.com/zencart/inde...&cPath=28_5_20
