ok a go .21 5 port with a jp2 pipe. How well will they work together? On my 7 port it wasnt bad but im getting a new 5 port how will the combo be?

FIRST PLACE in the SC8 shootout with my Go-Tech .25

best clutch I ever tried too ..the 1.0 springs with the lighter shoes in the 4 shoe setup engage just like the 3 shoe with 1.1 springs.The shoes wear really well too..I've half last season and 3 races this year on my JVD (same as ascendancy) and I've yet to need to file off even a worn edge on a shoe..

Yeh get a new set of 1.1 springs in there..The difference will put a BIG smile on your face..240 is a better temp too..all my GO's run around 250-260 depending on ambient temp and track conditions.

Assume 5 port should run 1.1 spring as well?

Had an issue over last race day, started breaking springs. Fixed one, another broke right before the A main.

5 port, 1.1 springs, Dynamite max life shoes.

Have maybe half a gallon on this setup since clutch was rebuilt.

Thoughts?

hello guys,i need your help again..everytime i start to crank my engine it always dies,i adjust my lsn little by little clockwise,then it started and idles for about a minute and suddenly pulled the trigger the engine dies everytime i pull the trigger it will run for about a few meters then the rpm begins to drop and dies,my glowplug is new,cannot get this engine idle consistently eventough im using the vspec carb.btw im using a cosmo25% fuel this is the first i haved use this fuel,could it be this fuel is the culprit?or should i get a fuel that has low oil content?

The 5 port has a very strong bottom end so 1.1 springs may be too much, depending on whether its in a buggy or truggy and track conditions.
In a buggy I would go with 1.0, truggy probably 1.1's would be ok. Like I mentioned a lot will depend on track condition and surface. Breaking springs sounds more like a set up thing.



These engines will load up with fuel and stall after a short while, that's just the way they are. Even a really well tuned engine will load up and stall eventually. Sounds like you are too rich on the bottom end. This will load up the engine sooner and it will stop as you have described. Check your idle gap with the throttle completly closed (take the restrictor out to get a better look) and make sure it is no more than .7mm wide. If it's too wide you will have to run the bottom end needle very rich to make it run and idle, hence your problem. If necessary reduce the idle gap down to .7 mm then lean the bottom end until the motor will hold an idle. When you bring the car in to rest, let it sit for 10 sec, then give it full throttle and lean the bottom end needle until you get a crisp take off with no blubbery rich sounds. Now do some high speed runs and set the top end needle for good clear performance, ensuriing you have a good exhaust smoke trail at all times. If you needed to adjust the top end by a signifigant amount, re visit the bottom end needle and re set as before , as adjusting the top end will effect the bottom end.

Also try another plug. Even new plugs can be shonky sometimes. A motor that dies on reving up or dies a few feet out on take off can sometimes be a dying glow plug.
Your fuel should be fine unless it's really old and stale.

man oh man has this engine got power. I pulled a backflip off a double today. I don't think its ever been done with a nitro at this track.

What are the pros and cons of running a restrictor?
I am not running one at the moment.

They help to smooth the powerband out for better traction and drivability when racing. They also improve economy.
Standard size (as comes installed on most motors is 8mm).
The smaller restrictors give the best economy, with a slight reduction in top end revs as a trade off. However they can actually boost bottom end power by virtue of a "ram air" effect which sees the air being funnelled into the carb at a greater velocity than normal at low throttle settings due to the taper of the smaller restrictors.
Most guys run a 7 mm as standard, and go down to the 6.5 for economy if required. You can get restrictors down to around 5.5mm for .21 off-road engines if you feel the need.
Throw the 7mm one in your motor and see what you think. You won't notice much of a drop off in power, but economy and ease of driving on loose surfaces will increase. You will just have to lean both needles a tad to allow for the decreased air flow into the motor in order to retain a good tune - hence the increased economy.

followed your advice but still no luck for me,i guess im gonna go change my plug (novarossi c6tf)and my friend says that the c6tf is a medium plug.

Sorry the 6 is a medium but I'd try the c5tf the hot plug

try a medium to hot plug. A OS P3 is always a good start. I run O'donnell
97T's

+1 on the O'donnell 97t

Thats what i run is the odonnell 97. Ive had really good luck with them. I just order a brand new cloclwork modded Go 5 port Ill let you guys know how it works when it gets here

I wouldn't run a 97T in the engine I do for you..a 99T would be better suited...stock Go engines have very low compression, my engines has quite a jump in compression...chances are that the 97T will end up failing pretty quickly as they are not overly tolerant of higher compression....

Just bought RC8T with a Go .21-spec-3port engine with red head on it.Running 30% Sidewinder fuel.I'm new to these engines and am having issues and getting fustrated.After buying,I tore it down cleaned checked and rebuilt everything in the power plant.First off it starts great and idles fine.I'm having problems getting the temps up, I lean it out to get temps up and it seems to be starving for fuel and stalls out.Richen it up a little and it runs fine but after about 10 minutes temps only at 160 F it pukes the O'donnell 97T plugs that I'm using.The plugs are still clean and new looking but the wire is breaking about 2-3 coils up in the plug.
I'm hoping this is enough info for some help/suggestions with my problems.
thanks............gosharpie97.