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Old 03-31-2010 | 05:26 PM
  #2446  
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Originally Posted by JAMMINKRAZY
Yeah. I think it's probably going into my truggy so I figured the 2013 would be a better fit(more bottom end). Plus nothing beats the sound of a 2013!
I AGREE!!!!!! I have about 10 tanks on mine and it is fat as anything but still plenty fast enough to race.. I am taking it the way it is to the april fools race at crcrc this weekend and I think its going to fair very well.... it so wierd how the 2013 has such a unique sound, and the linear power is unreal even as fat as the motor is right now, I want to get it fully broke in but dont want to kill it right off the bat by rushing it. I have done my previous B5's with Rons methos and they last FOREVER!!!!! hopefully we should be good to go for the rebel race at whitehouse in 2 weeks. with Drake and everyone there its going to be a blast!!!!
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Old 03-31-2010 | 05:33 PM
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I have been running a b5 in my D8T for a little bit now, and I was using the 2013 pipe on it and it worked good, but recently i used a 2035 on it and fell in love one of the best motor pipe combos ive driven.
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Old 03-31-2010 | 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastguy1
I AGREE!!!!!! I have about 10 tanks on mine and it is fat as anything but still plenty fast enough to race.. I am taking it the way it is to the april fools race at crcrc this weekend and I think its going to fair very well.... it so wierd how the 2013 has such a unique sound, and the linear power is unreal even as fat as the motor is right now, I want to get it fully broke in but dont want to kill it right off the bat by rushing it. I have done my previous B5's with Rons methos and they last FOREVER!!!!! hopefully we should be good to go for the rebel race at whitehouse in 2 weeks. with Drake and everyone there its going to be a blast!!!!
Moe thats cool your going to the rebel race i will probley be going myself it should be a blast i have havent raced there in a while and they have done some nice changing to the track i will see you there man.
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Old 03-31-2010 | 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by DPowers
Moe thats cool your going to the rebel race i will probley be going myself it should be a blast i have havent raced there in a while and they have done some nice changing to the track i will see you there man.
cool Bro!!!! yeah you know I am just headin over there to put the smack down on Adam.... just as soon as I can figure out how to switch his fuel with water haha anyway cant wait for that one just hope we get nice weather
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Old 03-31-2010 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 1fastguy1
cool Bro!!!! yeah you know I am just headin over there to put the smack down on Adam.... just as soon as I can figure out how to switch his fuel with water haha anyway cant wait for that one just hope we get nice weather
I thought the same thing lol i am shooten for the A in pro truggy i just started driving but i should have it set and ready to go by then and how u liking the mugen.
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Old 03-31-2010 | 06:11 PM
  #2451  
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Ok I broke my B5 in with the heat cycle method. I followed this guys video on youtube that helped alot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPb7sOIBFck
There is 2 parts that is part 1. I got a little over a gallon in the B5 and its running awesome. Rons tuning guide that he typed up a couple pages back really helped. But not sure if this normal but I ran a few tanks through tonite and have a nice constant idle great bottom end with a nice smoke trail until i get to the very topend of the power band. When im at real high rpms there is very little if any. The temps are not getting over 212. But after a high speed run it seems to carry a high idle for about 15 or 20 seconds before it drops down. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?
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Old 03-31-2010 | 06:49 PM
  #2452  
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It is normal to have it drop down but 15 to 20 seconds is kinda a long time. Usually no more than 5 seconds. Probally still a little lean on low speed. You can tune it so it drops rather quickly but you will be blue in the face before you get it takes a while. I HEARD there is no gain.
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Old 03-31-2010 | 06:56 PM
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Is there an aftermarket head that will work on the B5?
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Old 04-01-2010 | 05:27 AM
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I currantly run all electric 1/8th scales but have decided to try nitro truggy this year for the challange. Before I started following this thread I purchased the new Anniversery addition V-Spec to try. After following this thread for the last couple of weeks and being very impressed with all the positive feedback about the engine and really impressed with how Ron handles all the questions and giving constant support to B5 users I HAD TO BUY ONE.

So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.

I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.

My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
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Old 04-01-2010 | 06:22 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeC
I currantly run all electric 1/8th scales but have decided to try nitro truggy this year for the challange. Before I started following this thread I purchased the new Anniversery addition V-Spec to try. After following this thread for the last couple of weeks and being very impressed with all the positive feedback about the engine and really impressed with how Ron handles all the questions and giving constant support to B5 users I HAD TO BUY ONE.

So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.

I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.

My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
All 1.0 to start then go to 2 1.05 if you need more, all 1.0 is what most run out my way with that clutch.
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Old 04-01-2010 | 06:32 AM
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Thank you.
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Old 04-01-2010 | 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JoeC
I currantly run all electric 1/8th scales but have decided to try nitro truggy this year for the challange. Before I started following this thread I purchased the new Anniversery addition V-Spec to try. After following this thread for the last couple of weeks and being very impressed with all the positive feedback about the engine and really impressed with how Ron handles all the questions and giving constant support to B5 users I HAD TO BUY ONE.

So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.

I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.

My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
I knew you would get one. Call when it gets there and I'll help you get it broke in.
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Old 04-01-2010 | 06:54 AM
  #2458  
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Thanks Dayton, you are the other reason I bought one.
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Old 04-01-2010 | 07:10 AM
  #2459  
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Originally Posted by nitroxr
Ok I broke my B5 in with the heat cycle method. I followed this guys video on youtube that helped alot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPb7sOIBFck
There is 2 parts that is part 1. I got a little over a gallon in the B5 and its running awesome. Rons tuning guide that he typed up a couple pages back really helped. But not sure if this normal but I ran a few tanks through tonite and have a nice constant idle great bottom end with a nice smoke trail until i get to the very topend of the power band. When im at real high rpms there is very little if any. The temps are not getting over 212. But after a high speed run it seems to carry a high idle for about 15 or 20 seconds before it drops down. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?
Ron, Is'nt the low "drop down idle" almost a false overly rich idle? The "high" idle is your correct idle, and then it richens out to drop it right? Dont you want to lean untill it does not drop down to the "low...or fourstroke" idle.....and then lower the resulting high idle with the idle screw? I guess Im kind of asking a question here...ha ha, thanks....871
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Old 04-01-2010 | 09:15 AM
  #2460  
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Originally Posted by Werks
When it comes to break in there realy is no right or wrong. The bestsystem is the one that works best for you. After all they all acomplis the same thing, basicaly wearing your engine in. I recommend the system that I do because it is gentle on the engine and at the same time basically allows you to tune your engine properly at the same time, it's kinda a no brainer. Some people prefer heat cycle methods but my concern about that is if you are ideling an engine at 200 degrees, how lean is it actualy? In my oppinion probably too lean. Reality of the matter is that even on a fully broken in engine, I highly doubt that I would ever have it tuned so lean that I would see 200 degrees on the box! If I did that would probably equate to 250 or so under load and to me that is too lean!
Ok... I'm gonna try your break in method this time Ron. My only question is about setting the idle gap. Do you initially set the carb to 2-2.5 with the carb restrictor in or set the idle gap with it out then put it in?
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