The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
#2446
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,737
I AGREE!!!!!! I have about 10 tanks on mine and it is fat as anything but still plenty fast enough to race.. I am taking it the way it is to the april fools race at crcrc this weekend and I think its going to fair very well.... it so wierd how the 2013 has such a unique sound, and the linear power is unreal even as fat as the motor is right now, I want to get it fully broke in but dont want to kill it right off the bat by rushing it. I have done my previous B5's with Rons methos and they last FOREVER!!!!! hopefully we should be good to go for the rebel race at whitehouse in 2 weeks. with Drake and everyone there its going to be a blast!!!!
#2448
I AGREE!!!!!! I have about 10 tanks on mine and it is fat as anything but still plenty fast enough to race.. I am taking it the way it is to the april fools race at crcrc this weekend and I think its going to fair very well.... it so wierd how the 2013 has such a unique sound, and the linear power is unreal even as fat as the motor is right now, I want to get it fully broke in but dont want to kill it right off the bat by rushing it. I have done my previous B5's with Rons methos and they last FOREVER!!!!! hopefully we should be good to go for the rebel race at whitehouse in 2 weeks. with Drake and everyone there its going to be a blast!!!!
#2449
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,737


just as soon as I can figure out how to switch his fuel with water
haha anyway cant wait for that one just hope we get nice weather
#2450
I thought the same thing lol i am shooten for the A in pro truggy i just started driving but i should have it set and ready to go by then and how u liking the mugen.
#2451
Ok I broke my B5 in with the heat cycle method. I followed this guys video on youtube that helped alot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPb7sOIBFck
There is 2 parts that is part 1. I got a little over a gallon in the B5 and its running awesome. Rons tuning guide that he typed up a couple pages back really helped. But not sure if this normal but I ran a few tanks through tonite and have a nice constant idle great bottom end with a nice smoke trail until i get to the very topend of the power band. When im at real high rpms there is very little if any. The temps are not getting over 212. But after a high speed run it seems to carry a high idle for about 15 or 20 seconds before it drops down. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?
There is 2 parts that is part 1. I got a little over a gallon in the B5 and its running awesome. Rons tuning guide that he typed up a couple pages back really helped. But not sure if this normal but I ran a few tanks through tonite and have a nice constant idle great bottom end with a nice smoke trail until i get to the very topend of the power band. When im at real high rpms there is very little if any. The temps are not getting over 212. But after a high speed run it seems to carry a high idle for about 15 or 20 seconds before it drops down. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?
#2452
It is normal to have it drop down but 15 to 20 seconds is kinda a long time. Usually no more than 5 seconds. Probally still a little lean on low speed. You can tune it so it drops rather quickly but you will be blue in the face before you get it takes a while. I HEARD there is no gain.
#2454
Tech Master
iTrader: (122)
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,705
I currantly run all electric 1/8th scales but have decided to try nitro truggy this year for the challange. Before I started following this thread I purchased the new Anniversery addition V-Spec to try. After following this thread for the last couple of weeks and being very impressed with all the positive feedback about the engine and really impressed with how Ron handles all the questions and giving constant support to B5 users I HAD TO BUY ONE.
So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.
I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.
My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.
I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.
My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
#2455
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,737
I currantly run all electric 1/8th scales but have decided to try nitro truggy this year for the challange. Before I started following this thread I purchased the new Anniversery addition V-Spec to try. After following this thread for the last couple of weeks and being very impressed with all the positive feedback about the engine and really impressed with how Ron handles all the questions and giving constant support to B5 users I HAD TO BUY ONE.
So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.
I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.
My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.
I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.
My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
#2457
I currantly run all electric 1/8th scales but have decided to try nitro truggy this year for the challange. Before I started following this thread I purchased the new Anniversery addition V-Spec to try. After following this thread for the last couple of weeks and being very impressed with all the positive feedback about the engine and really impressed with how Ron handles all the questions and giving constant support to B5 users I HAD TO BUY ONE.
So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.
I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.
My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
So last night (even though I have a new in the box V-Spec) I bit the bullet and bought the B5 and Werks 2013 pipe.
I will be running it in a MBX6T with a M2C 4 shoe clutch on 30% Byron's.
My only question right now is what springs I should start with in the clutch setup. I run on a large, medium traction track with alot of jumps. Any suggestions will help. Thanks.
#2459
Ok I broke my B5 in with the heat cycle method. I followed this guys video on youtube that helped alot. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HPb7sOIBFck
There is 2 parts that is part 1. I got a little over a gallon in the B5 and its running awesome. Rons tuning guide that he typed up a couple pages back really helped. But not sure if this normal but I ran a few tanks through tonite and have a nice constant idle great bottom end with a nice smoke trail until i get to the very topend of the power band. When im at real high rpms there is very little if any. The temps are not getting over 212. But after a high speed run it seems to carry a high idle for about 15 or 20 seconds before it drops down. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?
There is 2 parts that is part 1. I got a little over a gallon in the B5 and its running awesome. Rons tuning guide that he typed up a couple pages back really helped. But not sure if this normal but I ran a few tanks through tonite and have a nice constant idle great bottom end with a nice smoke trail until i get to the very topend of the power band. When im at real high rpms there is very little if any. The temps are not getting over 212. But after a high speed run it seems to carry a high idle for about 15 or 20 seconds before it drops down. Is this normal or am i doing something wrong?
#2460
When it comes to break in there realy is no right or wrong. The bestsystem is the one that works best for you. After all they all acomplis the same thing, basicaly wearing your engine in. I recommend the system that I do because it is gentle on the engine and at the same time basically allows you to tune your engine properly at the same time, it's kinda a no brainer. Some people prefer heat cycle methods but my concern about that is if you are ideling an engine at 200 degrees, how lean is it actualy? In my oppinion probably too lean. Reality of the matter is that even on a fully broken in engine, I highly doubt that I would ever have it tuned so lean that I would see 200 degrees on the box! If I did that would probably equate to 250 or so under load and to me that is too lean!



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