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Old 03-28-2010 | 05:32 AM
  #2341  
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Originally Posted by trickedout
hey just a thought since you said it runs about 5 minutes and then starts running like crap...have you checked your fuel tank? after 5 min your about half way down thats where most tanks spring a air leak, and u might be lean bogging and flaming out for leaning out?? just a thought and my thoughts dont usually mean much..!!
I thought the same thing and i did the pressure text and didnt find no leaks i put a new glow plug in it and it had brand new clutches and springs on it max life with 1.1 springs i have a new tank coming so i am going to put it on and try it anyways just to make sure.
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Old 03-28-2010 | 06:47 AM
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Originally Posted by DPowers
I thought the same thing and i did the pressure text and didnt find no leaks i put a new glow plug in it and it had brand new clutches and springs on it max life with 1.1 springs i have a new tank coming so i am going to put it on and try it anyways just to make sure.

Thanks bro good to be back
As far as the issue I didn't realize it was after 5 minutes of running.
One thing to check is the clutch, I have raced with you and know you can tune an engine
So I doubt its that but after it starts bogging set it on the box and rip on it to check it without a load.
I had a clutchbell that gave me the same effects, whether I dremeled it or not it still gave me a bog after warmups. I changed the bell (of course after changing tanks,line,shoes,carbs ect ect. And the problem was solved.
Either way maybe something to check. Lemme know what you come up with
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Old 03-28-2010 | 06:55 AM
  #2343  
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Originally Posted by 1fastguy1
Thanks bro good to be back
As far as the issue I didn't realize it was after 5 minutes of running.
One thing to check is the clutch, I have raced with you and know you can tune an engine
So I doubt its that but after it starts bogging set it on the box and rip on it to check it without a load.
I had a clutchbell that gave me the same effects, whether I dremeled it or not it still gave me a bog after warmups. I changed the bell (of course after changing tanks,line,shoes,carbs ect ect. And the problem was solved.
Either way maybe something to check. Lemme know what you come up with
Yeah i have another clucth bell i will try it but this guy at the track said it sound like a front bearing but the motor was dry so i dont think that is the case i am going to chase everthing down one by one and see if i can find the problem and when its even off the ground u can still hear the bog.
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Old 03-28-2010 | 06:56 AM
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Originally Posted by patrick lsp
does anyone know where i can get the gasket that fits in between the header and silencer for a sirio 2013? it looks different than your std gasket that most pipes use. similar to a big o ring.
Actually its a normal gasket, I use dynamite #DYN6597 it comes with 2 and its 6 bucks
The gaskets will fit on both engine and manifold
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Old 03-28-2010 | 06:59 AM
  #2345  
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Hi

Going to be running the B5 in my new Mugen MBX6T and was wondering where does the extender go? On the engine or between manifold and exhuast pipe?

Thanks
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Old 03-28-2010 | 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Chubba
Hi

Going to be running the B5 in my new Mugen MBX6T and was wondering where does the extender go? On the engine or between manifold and exhuast pipe?

Thanks
It goes between the manifold and the pipe
Don't really know if you want it on a truggy though.... After you run it like that
Can you post your thoughts?
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Old 03-28-2010 | 09:40 AM
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ok guys... so i waited until my hobby shop.. or hobby shop where i used to live at but still support... got them in stock... i have my B5 here waiting on the pipe that i bought from a member on this forum to show up... i must say that the countless positive reviews on here sold me... just a matter of weeks b4 i test it out.. i have a wide variety of engines... and another brand is my engine of choice right now... so i will break that in first and get about a gallon of proper running in and get it ready and then break the B5 in and give a gallon or so and see if i will like it... i have about 4 engines to break in for this season....i like to run a gallon in on them over a weekend each... then go to real race conditions and really test them... 1 gallon at a time....
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Old 03-28-2010 | 09:43 AM
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The extender on the 2057 will give the pipe more bottom end. Which in a truggy is a good thing. Adding it will lose a little runtime but gain bottom.
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Old 03-28-2010 | 09:49 AM
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As Mo mentioned (by the way I'm also happy to have him back! For those that don't know Mo was one of the first guys to give the B5 a shot on RC Tech so it's great having him back as part of the family!) the extenders for the 2057 fits between the pip and manifold and in essence does justbthat, extend the pipe. The longer the pipe the more back pressure it creates making more bottom end. The shorter the pipe (as in if you run the 2057 without the extender) the less back pressure it creates producing more top end. This is one of the realy neat thing about the 2057, you in essence get 2 pipes for the price of one! The way that I recomend people to start off when using the 2057 is with the extender installed. If after running it for a bit you feel that yo still have more than enough bottom, pull the extender out and it will smooth out the power band even more!

DPowers, it sounds like you have changed most of the stuff that I would have looked at to start with. One thing that you did not mentioned is what type of temps you are running at but just a suggestion. If with all of the new stuff next time you run you are still getting the bog after a few minutes try richening up the needles a few hours and see if it gets better. It's possible that you might just be a little on the lean side and after 4-5 minutes once the engine realy comes up to temp you are seeing this. When I tune I generaly do it so that the engine is slightly fat off the bat. When I do this I find that after 1-2 laps (like in your typical warm up) the engine then comes up to temp, clears out and will stay realy consistent for however long the run may be. If the motor is realy crisp right off the bat when you just fire it up, this is usualy a sign to me that the engine is on the lean side. Jet something to try. Let me know what you find once you run it again.

Regards,

Ron
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Old 03-28-2010 | 03:08 PM
  #2350  
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got the werks clutch (its a 35mm flywheel really wanted 34 or less ...)bolted up on the B5.. which spring are you guys using on a truggy and also how tight do you adjust the nut.. aprox. how much mm from the top of the flywheel nut....

thx again
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Old 03-28-2010 | 03:17 PM
  #2351  
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Originally Posted by Werks
As Mo mentioned (by the way I'm also happy to have him back! For those that don't know Mo was one of the first guys to give the B5 a shot on RC Tech so it's great having him back as part of the family!) the extenders for the 2057 fits between the pip and manifold and in essence does justbthat, extend the pipe. The longer the pipe the more back pressure it creates making more bottom end. The shorter the pipe (as in if you run the 2057 without the extender) the less back pressure it creates producing more top end. This is one of the realy neat thing about the 2057, you in essence get 2 pipes for the price of one! The way that I recomend people to start off when using the 2057 is with the extender installed. If after running it for a bit you feel that yo still have more than enough bottom, pull the extender out and it will smooth out the power band even more!

DPowers, it sounds like you have changed most of the stuff that I would have looked at to start with. One thing that you did not mentioned is what type of temps you are running at but just a suggestion. If with all of the new stuff next time you run you are still getting the bog after a few minutes try richening up the needles a few hours and see if it gets better. It's possible that you might just be a little on the lean side and after 4-5 minutes once the engine realy comes up to temp you are seeing this. When I tune I generaly do it so that the engine is slightly fat off the bat. When I do this I find that after 1-2 laps (like in your typical warm up) the engine then comes up to temp, clears out and will stay realy consistent for however long the run may be. If the motor is realy crisp right off the bat when you just fire it up, this is usualy a sign to me that the engine is on the lean side. Jet something to try. Let me know what you find once you run it again.

Regards,

Ron
Hey Ron yeah we tryed to richen it and it would just get worse and then we would try to lean it and it would be about the same i turned both needles out 2 fuel turns and even tried that i tried alot of different things and when we got it to run descent it would flame out i am going to replace the gas tank and check the motor over and see what it does.
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Old 03-28-2010 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by DPowers
Hey Ron yeah we tryed to richen it and it would just get worse and then we would try to lean it and it would be about the same i turned both needles out 2 fuel turns and even tried that i tried alot of different things and when we got it to run descent it would flame out i am going to replace the gas tank and check the motor over and see what it does.

Ok, just pull the engine apart and see if you see anything. I honestly don't think the motor is the issue though because if it was it would not run fine for 5 minutes and then start acting strange (unless it was too lean but it sounds like you took care of that concern). The issue that you are describing sounds like it might be a pressure issues, replace the tank as you mentioned and change the fuel line at the same time. Let me know what you come up with!
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Old 03-28-2010 | 04:18 PM
  #2353  
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Originally Posted by kgombe
got the werks clutch (its a 35mm flywheel really wanted 34 or less ...)bolted up on the B5.. which spring are you guys using on a truggy and also how tight do you adjust the nut.. aprox. how much mm from the top of the flywheel nut....

thx again
Thanks for picking up one of our clutches! Regarding set up it's as easy as can be! Just follow the instructions on the starting point with this one, they are spot on. When you make adjustment start out with half turn increments and you'll be good to go. You will probably end up around 1/2 turn in from flush. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron
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Old 03-28-2010 | 04:23 PM
  #2354  
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Originally Posted by Werks
Thanks for picking up one of our clutches! Regarding set up it's as easy as can be! Just follow the instructions on the starting point with this one, they are spot on. When you make adjustment start out with half turn increments and you'll be good to go. You will probably end up around 1/2 turn in from flush. Hope this helps!

Regards,

Ron
thank.. i read the instructions but assumed it was gear towards a buggy.. thats why i asked for a truggy what would you set it as.. i have the B5.. and soon to get the 2013 if it ever gets here... its a brand new engine.. so i still got to break it in before i really get into it
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Old 03-28-2010 | 04:24 PM
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Originally Posted by kgombe
got the werks clutch (its a 35mm flywheel really wanted 34 or less ...)bolted up on the B5.. which spring are you guys using on a truggy and also how tight do you adjust the nut.. aprox. how much mm from the top of the flywheel nut....

thx again
I found for buggy to run it flush and on truggy to run it 3/4 turn in from there
Also make sure to take your pliers and compress the spring a few times if its new and the gold spring on both, sometimes I also run 2 black and 2 red shoes
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