Go Back  R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro Off-Road > Offroad Nitro Engine Forum
The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine >

The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine

Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree63Likes

The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 03-05-2010 | 09:13 AM
  #1921  
nitroxr's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 303
Default

Ok getting ready to order some items from Amain. I have the new B5 that i ordered a couple weeks ago and i need a pipe. Whats the best pipe i have been reading about the 2013, and no i hear the 2053 is supposed to be good to. The B5 is in a mugen mbx 6. Also whats everyones fav glowplug? One last question Amain only sells werks fuel in 4 gallon or 1 quart increments whats the second choice for fuel. I can get blue thunder, oddonnel, and byrons fairly close to my house. Should i break the motor in on 20% or just use 30%? Any help would be great.
nitroxr is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 09:26 AM
  #1922  
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,769
Default

Originally Posted by smb17
Lol, I come in this thread and I don't think I've read one problem with this engine.
Lol, you have to put everything into perspective. If you page back through the previous 120+ pages you will find that that this engine has been in my opinion problem free. In fact I would say that the issues have been limited to the following. 2x engines where vehicles with a complex/unusual linkage set up was causing the carburetor to bind (which to me is more of a vehicle issue than a motor issue). 1x engine with a possible bent idle stop screw (which I have never seen before but can happen). And 1x engine where the carb would not seat completely (which I still think was caused by the o-ring in the bottom of the case/carb opening just not being seated/pushed in completely). For the rest having an o-ring under the carb is just something that we do differently and people have not seen before so it's not unusual to get questions about it.

I have not heard of a single engine blowing up prematurely, a single rod failing prematurely, a single bearing failing or anything along those lines. Nor have I ever been contacted by a single person to warranty an engine due to any type of manufacturing related failure (or even one that they wanted/attempted to attribute to any kind of warranty related issue even though it was not). I'm not going to post the exact number but I will say that there are literally hundreds upon hundreds of (far in excess of 500) B5's floating around out there. Hearing about 3-4 minor issues with those kind of numbers in cars is something that I'm actually rather pleased with.

As you guys all know the most vocal owners of products are the people that have problems with them lol. You are virtually guaranteed to hear from every single person that is running into issues with something you make while you may at best hear from 1 out of 20 or 30 people that have your stuff and are loving it just to tell you that.

So...all in all I'm pleased and I think that the users of this engine are too. Even though other companies are now trying to make engines in this price range I still firmly believe that the B5 is the best performing, highest quality racing engine (and the only Italian made one) on the market at this price range. In my opinion the B5 gives you more bang for your buck and performance for you dollar than anything else being offered period. Just my $0.02 ;-)

Regards,

Ron
Werks is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 09:26 AM
  #1923  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (16)
 
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 638
From: Franklin, Indiana
Default

Originally Posted by nitroxr
Ok getting ready to order some items from Amain. I have the new B5 that i ordered a couple weeks ago and i need a pipe. Whats the best pipe i have been reading about the 2013, and no i hear the 2053 is supposed to be good to. The B5 is in a mugen mbx 6. Also whats everyones fav glowplug? One last question Amain only sells werks fuel in 4 gallon or 1 quart increments whats the second choice for fuel. I can get blue thunder, oddonnel, and byrons fairly close to my house. Should i break the motor in on 20% or just use 30%? Any help would be great.
The 2013 to me is all about power, from top to bottom. The 2057 is far more easy for me to drive. I think it takes a little off the bottom and has good top end. The mugen is a pretty light car, and I get myself into trouble with too much power. I have used OS p3 plugs with great results. I just began using the Werks #5 plugs and they work great also. I have not run the #5s long enough to say they are better or last longer, but according to Ron they are a bit more durable. I will be able to provide better feedback after a few more weeks racing them.

If getting Werks fuel is a problem, any of the brands you mentioned are decent. I prefer Morgan Fuels, so of those I would choose Blue Thunder. But that is all just personal preference. The Werks is also great fuel, but shipping can be killer on it(HAZMAT) hopefully more shops will begin picking it up.

If you race with 30%, I would break it in on 30%. Just make sure to preheat the motor well, and you should be good to go.

Thanks

Adam Kasch

Last edited by Adim_X; 03-05-2010 at 11:06 AM.
Adim_X is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 09:37 AM
  #1924  
Thread Starter
Tech Elite
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,769
Default

Originally Posted by nitroxr
Ok getting ready to order some items from Amain. I have the new B5 that i ordered a couple weeks ago and i need a pipe. Whats the best pipe i have been reading about the 2013, and no i hear the 2053 is supposed to be good to. The B5 is in a mugen mbx 6. Also whats everyones fav glowplug? One last question Amain only sells werks fuel in 4 gallon or 1 quart increments whats the second choice for fuel. I can get blue thunder, oddonnel, and byrons fairly close to my house. Should i break the motor in on 20% or just use 30%? Any help would be great.
Hello nitroxr, thanks for picking up one of our engines! Regarding the pipes the 2 best solutions in my opinion are the 2013 and the 2057. The 2013 is going to give you the most aggressive bottom end and really great mid and top (better than the 2035). The 2057 is going to give you a smoother bottom end (than the 2013) with the same mid to top end as the 2013 but with around 30 seconds more run time. So really going to come down tot he type of tracks that you run on and your own personal preferences. For larger flowing tracks I would probably go with the 2057 for supercross style tracks with mega jumps you might want to give the 2013 a shot. Frankly you cant go wrong with either one or even having both in your box.

As far as plugs are concerned people are running a mix of the OD97T's, OS P3's and you might also want to take a look at our TLP5BT. This is a #5 plug that we made especially for off-road use (the BT stands for buggy turbo). This is what Kortz runs and people have recently started to run these and are getting exceptional life out of them. Go back a few pages and I think there are some comments from some people about these including one person mentioning getting 3+ gallons out of one of our plugs.

As far as fuel is concerned, any fuel will obviously work in the engine but there are some major differences with our fuel from a performance stand point which I think are significant but I'm also obviously a little biased here so I'll let some of the other guys answer this one! However the easiest thing is to break in your engine using the same fuel that you plan on using in the future. So if you are going to run 30% just break it in with 30% and save your self the trouble of having to re-tune it. Think this about covers things, let me know if you have any other questions!

Regards,

Ron
Werks is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 09:49 AM
  #1925  
trickedout's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (31)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,273
From: Las Vegas/Pahrump,NV
Default

Originally Posted by Werks
Hey trickedout, thanks for picking up one of our engines. As the other guys mentioned there is a small o-ring that is slid over the neck of the carb and sits up against the block. Normally carbs do not have this but we put it on as an extra sealing mechanism to stop the possibility of any debris or gunk getting into the area where the carb/block is joined. Basically I decided to do this because it has the same effect as adding air seal that a lot of people like to do without the mess that putting that stuff on creates.

As I mentioned I do not think that anyone else does this so it probably looks a little unusual. In hindsight it probably would have been easier if I chose not to do this (as I would not have so many questions to answer lol) but it works and in my personal opinion offers a better seal and/or solution to adding air seal/silicoln like a lot of people seem to do. If you choose to leave this thin o-ring in, the carb will end up sitting approximately 0.5mm elevated from the block, this is not a problem and is perfectly acceptable. You have the choice of either running this or removing it in which case the carb will sit flush against the block. Again it's 100% up to you, the user on how you want to do this. Hope this helps explain things as well as gives you a better understanding of why it is like this.

Regards,

Ron
thank you so much thats what i wanted to here lol!! i think its a good idea just like you said a little different so it raises questions! i will be breaking it in shortly and be sure to report back asap!! thanks a million! how do you beat that customer service!!!!!
trickedout is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 09:54 AM
  #1926  
tkge's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (123)
 
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,811
From: Arkansas
Default

Got about 12 tanks of fuel through my B5 so far and all I can say it that this is the easiest motor to break in and the power that I can already see is amazing. Cant wait to get it race tuned and run it Sunday at the track!

Tim
tkge is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 11:14 AM
  #1927  
hyperc10's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 252
From: Midwest
Default

two gallons not a single flame awesome!!!!
hyperc10 is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 12:16 PM
  #1928  
Tech Addict
iTrader: (22)
 
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 587
Default

+1 one the 2013 and 2057 WERKS pipes, Best I have used for this engine!!
heidmann1 is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 05:26 PM
  #1929  
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 786
Default

Originally Posted by Werks
I have not heard of a single engine blowing up prematurely, a single rod failing prematurely, a single bearing failing or anything along those lines. Nor have I ever been contacted by a single person to warranty an engine due to any type of manufacturing related failure (or even one that they wanted/attempted to attribute to any kind of warranty related issue even though it was not). I'm not going to post the exact number but I will say that there are literally hundreds upon hundreds of (far in excess of 500) B5's floating around out there. Hearing about 3-4 minor issues with those kind of numbers in cars is something that I'm actually rather pleased with.
I think a large reason that you aren't seeing the bogus warranty claims is that Werks is not a faceless corporation. The time you spend here supporting your product has to weigh in your favor when someone is considering being underhanded.

On a different note, I changed fuels today because I had been having this wobbly idle. I had tried something new and ended up wasting $30. I'm now back to Byron's (no Werks in my area) and things are much easier to tune and the engine delivers plenty of power for my needs.
mthird is offline  
Old 03-05-2010 | 08:18 PM
  #1930  
hdcruzer's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (12)
 
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 737
From: Pittsburg Ca.
Default

Ive been running the Odonnells fuel in mine it works great. Tried out some Sidewinder Worlds today but havnt really ran enough to tell if its any better or not. Most the guys that were running Werks have had to change because they couldnt get it. Still cant. They have all changed to Byrons or Sidewinder.
hdcruzer is offline  
Old 03-06-2010 | 04:40 AM
  #1931  
alexrckid's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,555
From: south carolina
Default

after running the quals and main at motorama, i pulled the flywheel off on my B5.............front beraing was as dry as a bone(great quality bearing). the glow plug indicates a perfect tune which could also help explain why the truck(8T-2.0) was one of the fastest in the quals that i was in.......with the 2013 it was absolutely balistic....and that was with going up one tooth(14) on the clutch bell......fantastic motor.......still tons of THUMP even after about 3 gals in total......maybe this is why i bought a second B5.........
alexrckid is offline  
Old 03-06-2010 | 02:53 PM
  #1932  
VWVR6_T's Avatar
Tech Addict
 
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 560
From: Western,PA
Default

That sounds great Alex congrats. Hey! What pinion are you using in the center diff? 50 or 48. Thanks
VWVR6_T is offline  
Old 03-06-2010 | 08:40 PM
  #1933  
Chadstrotheide's Avatar
Tech Adept
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 131
Exclamation Werks b5. Problems

I have just bought a b5. About two months ago. Installed it. Broke it in at stock settings. Took it to the track leaned it out around 1/2 to 1 turn on the main."flush or a hair in" And about 1/4 turn on the slow.The motor ran great for one quart of fuel. "Bryon 30% nitro 11% oil". It will fire up and idle. And run when it's cold. But right after it warms up. It will not idle. And dies after giving it 1/2 throttle or more after releasing the throttle? The motor has less than 3/4 of a gallon through it. I haven't ran it to lean. One of my friends is having problems also. This motor has everyone shaking there heads.... On what to try. With all the hype on this motor. It has just turned into a huge disappointment. Any ideas? Any warranty on the b5?

Last edited by Chadstrotheide; 03-06-2010 at 09:06 PM.
Chadstrotheide is offline  
Old 03-06-2010 | 09:21 PM
  #1934  
jjshbetz11's Avatar
Tech Adept
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 234
Default

Take it back to factory settings, flush on HS, flush on LS, about 1.5mm on idle. Pre heat the head to 200d, fire it up. run the car for about half a tank to saturate the mill and chassis with heat. bring it in an notice the idle, if it's too high fatten up the low end, if its too low lean the low end. Clear it out after every needle change. After the idle is constitant, adjust high speed little bit at a time cleaning it out between each tweek. After you get the speed you want bring it in and readjust the idle with the low speed again so it idles good, not too high or low. Whala, there you have it. That will put you at about 80% tuned. The rest you can fine tune at the track. You can use this method with any mill also, hope this helps.
jjshbetz11 is offline  
Old 03-07-2010 | 05:03 AM
  #1935  
alexrckid's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 1,555
From: south carolina
Default

50 spur/14 clutch bell ..stock clutch. losi 8t-2.0
alexrckid is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.