The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
#1921
Ok getting ready to order some items from Amain. I have the new B5 that i ordered a couple weeks ago and i need a pipe. Whats the best pipe i have been reading about the 2013, and no i hear the 2053 is supposed to be good to. The B5 is in a mugen mbx 6. Also whats everyones fav glowplug? One last question Amain only sells werks fuel in 4 gallon or 1 quart increments whats the second choice for fuel. I can get blue thunder, oddonnel, and byrons fairly close to my house. Should i break the motor in on 20% or just use 30%? Any help would be great.
#1922
I have not heard of a single engine blowing up prematurely, a single rod failing prematurely, a single bearing failing or anything along those lines. Nor have I ever been contacted by a single person to warranty an engine due to any type of manufacturing related failure (or even one that they wanted/attempted to attribute to any kind of warranty related issue even though it was not). I'm not going to post the exact number but I will say that there are literally hundreds upon hundreds of (far in excess of 500) B5's floating around out there. Hearing about 3-4 minor issues with those kind of numbers in cars is something that I'm actually rather pleased with.
As you guys all know the most vocal owners of products are the people that have problems with them lol. You are virtually guaranteed to hear from every single person that is running into issues with something you make while you may at best hear from 1 out of 20 or 30 people that have your stuff and are loving it just to tell you that.
So...all in all I'm pleased and I think that the users of this engine are too. Even though other companies are now trying to make engines in this price range I still firmly believe that the B5 is the best performing, highest quality racing engine (and the only Italian made one) on the market at this price range. In my opinion the B5 gives you more bang for your buck and performance for you dollar than anything else being offered period. Just my $0.02 ;-)
Regards,
Ron
#1923
Tech Addict
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 638
From: Franklin, Indiana
Ok getting ready to order some items from Amain. I have the new B5 that i ordered a couple weeks ago and i need a pipe. Whats the best pipe i have been reading about the 2013, and no i hear the 2053 is supposed to be good to. The B5 is in a mugen mbx 6. Also whats everyones fav glowplug? One last question Amain only sells werks fuel in 4 gallon or 1 quart increments whats the second choice for fuel. I can get blue thunder, oddonnel, and byrons fairly close to my house. Should i break the motor in on 20% or just use 30%? Any help would be great.
If getting Werks fuel is a problem, any of the brands you mentioned are decent. I prefer Morgan Fuels, so of those I would choose Blue Thunder. But that is all just personal preference. The Werks is also great fuel, but shipping can be killer on it(HAZMAT) hopefully more shops will begin picking it up.
If you race with 30%, I would break it in on 30%. Just make sure to preheat the motor well, and you should be good to go.
Thanks
Adam Kasch
Last edited by Adim_X; 03-05-2010 at 11:06 AM.
#1924
Ok getting ready to order some items from Amain. I have the new B5 that i ordered a couple weeks ago and i need a pipe. Whats the best pipe i have been reading about the 2013, and no i hear the 2053 is supposed to be good to. The B5 is in a mugen mbx 6. Also whats everyones fav glowplug? One last question Amain only sells werks fuel in 4 gallon or 1 quart increments whats the second choice for fuel. I can get blue thunder, oddonnel, and byrons fairly close to my house. Should i break the motor in on 20% or just use 30%? Any help would be great.
As far as plugs are concerned people are running a mix of the OD97T's, OS P3's and you might also want to take a look at our TLP5BT. This is a #5 plug that we made especially for off-road use (the BT stands for buggy turbo). This is what Kortz runs and people have recently started to run these and are getting exceptional life out of them. Go back a few pages and I think there are some comments from some people about these including one person mentioning getting 3+ gallons out of one of our plugs.
As far as fuel is concerned, any fuel will obviously work in the engine but there are some major differences with our fuel from a performance stand point which I think are significant but I'm also obviously a little biased here so I'll let some of the other guys answer this one! However the easiest thing is to break in your engine using the same fuel that you plan on using in the future. So if you are going to run 30% just break it in with 30% and save your self the trouble of having to re-tune it. Think this about covers things, let me know if you have any other questions!
Regards,
Ron
#1925
Hey trickedout, thanks for picking up one of our engines. As the other guys mentioned there is a small o-ring that is slid over the neck of the carb and sits up against the block. Normally carbs do not have this but we put it on as an extra sealing mechanism to stop the possibility of any debris or gunk getting into the area where the carb/block is joined. Basically I decided to do this because it has the same effect as adding air seal that a lot of people like to do without the mess that putting that stuff on creates.
As I mentioned I do not think that anyone else does this so it probably looks a little unusual. In hindsight it probably would have been easier if I chose not to do this (as I would not have so many questions to answer lol) but it works and in my personal opinion offers a better seal and/or solution to adding air seal/silicoln like a lot of people seem to do. If you choose to leave this thin o-ring in, the carb will end up sitting approximately 0.5mm elevated from the block, this is not a problem and is perfectly acceptable. You have the choice of either running this or removing it in which case the carb will sit flush against the block. Again it's 100% up to you, the user on how you want to do this. Hope this helps explain things as well as gives you a better understanding of why it is like this.
Regards,
Ron
As I mentioned I do not think that anyone else does this so it probably looks a little unusual. In hindsight it probably would have been easier if I chose not to do this (as I would not have so many questions to answer lol) but it works and in my personal opinion offers a better seal and/or solution to adding air seal/silicoln like a lot of people seem to do. If you choose to leave this thin o-ring in, the carb will end up sitting approximately 0.5mm elevated from the block, this is not a problem and is perfectly acceptable. You have the choice of either running this or removing it in which case the carb will sit flush against the block. Again it's 100% up to you, the user on how you want to do this. Hope this helps explain things as well as gives you a better understanding of why it is like this.
Regards,
Ron
#1926
Got about 12 tanks of fuel through my B5 so far and all I can say it that this is the easiest motor to break in and the power that I can already see is amazing. Cant wait to get it race tuned and run it Sunday at the track!
Tim
Tim
#1929
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 786
I have not heard of a single engine blowing up prematurely, a single rod failing prematurely, a single bearing failing or anything along those lines. Nor have I ever been contacted by a single person to warranty an engine due to any type of manufacturing related failure (or even one that they wanted/attempted to attribute to any kind of warranty related issue even though it was not). I'm not going to post the exact number but I will say that there are literally hundreds upon hundreds of (far in excess of 500) B5's floating around out there. Hearing about 3-4 minor issues with those kind of numbers in cars is something that I'm actually rather pleased with.
On a different note, I changed fuels today because I had been having this wobbly idle. I had tried something new and ended up wasting $30. I'm now back to Byron's (no Werks in my area) and things are much easier to tune and the engine delivers plenty of power for my needs.
#1930
Ive been running the Odonnells fuel in mine it works great. Tried out some Sidewinder Worlds today but havnt really ran enough to tell if its any better or not. Most the guys that were running Werks have had to change because they couldnt get it. Still cant. They have all changed to Byrons or Sidewinder.
#1931
after running the quals and main at motorama, i pulled the flywheel off on my B5.............front beraing was as dry as a bone(great quality bearing). the glow plug indicates a perfect tune which could also help explain why the truck(8T-2.0) was one of the fastest in the quals that i was in.......with the 2013 it was absolutely balistic....and that was with going up one tooth(14) on the clutch bell......fantastic motor.......still tons of THUMP even after about 3 gals in total......maybe this is why i bought a second B5.........
#1933
I have just bought a b5. About two months ago. Installed it. Broke it in at stock settings. Took it to the track leaned it out around 1/2 to 1 turn on the main."flush or a hair in" And about 1/4 turn on the slow.The motor ran great for one quart of fuel. "Bryon 30% nitro 11% oil". It will fire up and idle. And run when it's cold. But right after it warms up. It will not idle. And dies after giving it 1/2 throttle or more after releasing the throttle? The motor has less than 3/4 of a gallon through it. I haven't ran it to lean. One of my friends is having problems also. This motor has everyone shaking there heads.... On what to try. With all the hype on this motor. It has just turned into a huge disappointment. Any ideas? Any warranty on the b5?
Last edited by Chadstrotheide; 03-06-2010 at 09:06 PM.
#1934
Take it back to factory settings, flush on HS, flush on LS, about 1.5mm on idle. Pre heat the head to 200d, fire it up. run the car for about half a tank to saturate the mill and chassis with heat. bring it in an notice the idle, if it's too high fatten up the low end, if its too low lean the low end. Clear it out after every needle change. After the idle is constitant, adjust high speed little bit at a time cleaning it out between each tweek. After you get the speed you want bring it in and readjust the idle with the low speed again so it idles good, not too high or low. Whala, there you have it. That will put you at about 80% tuned. The rest you can fine tune at the track. You can use this method with any mill also, hope this helps.



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