The Speed Passion Thread
#2251
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 81
From: New Plymouth, New Zealand
Can anyone shed some light on whats going on with my motors. I have had 2 ultra sportsman 13.5 motors and both have cooked themselves after only a very short time of having them. The 2nd one cooked yesterday after only the 2nd run from new. I used the suggested gearing that the motor came with and after the first run was temp at 58deg celcius. After 3 mins of my 2nd race, about 3 mins into it the motor suddenly slowed so i pulled off. Temp gun showed 134deg celcius. Cars drivetrain is really free running and the speed control (Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro) was only at 56deg. I really dont know what im doing wrong but its getting really really expensive having to buy motors all the time and quite frankly, 2 motors in such a short time im regretting ever buying speed passion products. Please help
#2253
Can anyone shed some light on whats going on with my motors. I have had 2 ultra sportsman 13.5 motors and both have cooked themselves after only a very short time of having them. The 2nd one cooked yesterday after only the 2nd run from new. I used the suggested gearing that the motor came with and after the first run was temp at 58deg celcius. After 3 mins of my 2nd race, about 3 mins into it the motor suddenly slowed so i pulled off. Temp gun showed 134deg celcius. Cars drivetrain is really free running and the speed control (Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro) was only at 56deg. I really dont know what im doing wrong but its getting really really expensive having to buy motors all the time and quite frankly, 2 motors in such a short time im regretting ever buying speed passion products. Please help
with some SP GT2.0 that not yet been updated.
58deg Celsius for your GT2.0 Pro without fan is too hot
Some solved by increasing your FDR,
Check your Drag Brake
Decrease your Drag Brake , Drag Brake also create more
heat on Motor, and ESC.
Last edited by irgo; 02-08-2010 at 12:49 AM.
#2254
what i would say is aside from speedo/gearing one cannot ignore a good car setup and driving skills, some of the fast guys will remain faster because they are simply very good drivers...
lastly i am sure SP will be coming out with a newer faster software that will compete with the tekin 203.. probably sp 2.1 pro stock and it's software
here is my best 107 setup
ESC: SP GT 2.0 (PRO)
Software: 107
FDR: 104/47*1.9 = 4.23
Battery: Thunder Power 7.4v 40C
Motor: SP V3 17.5R
Track: 100 Foot Straight away total 100/50 foot
SP ESC Timing: 26 degrees
DRRS: 9
Drag Brake: 25%
Motor Timing: 10 degrees
Capacitor: SP Super Cap
if the motor is coming off too hot, i would go to 22 timing on the esc..
#2255
I have found 107 to be faster than the spx, however not as fast as the tekin 203 on top end speed., but on initial start torque, faster than spx and tekin
what i would say is aside from speedo/gearing one cannot ignore a good car setup and driving skills, some of the fast guys will remain faster because they are simply very good drivers...
lastly i am sure SP will be coming out with a newer faster software that will compete with the tekin 203.. probably sp 2.1 pro stock and it's software
here is my best 107 setup
ESC: SP GT 2.0 (PRO)
Software: 107
FDR: 104/47*1.9 = 4.23
Battery: Thunder Power 7.4v 40C
Motor: SP V3 17.5R
Track: 100 Foot Straight away total 100/50 foot
SP ESC Timing: 26 degrees
DRRS: 9
Drag Brake: 25%
Motor Timing: 10 degrees
Capacitor: SP Super Cap
if the motor is coming off too hot, i would go to 22 timing on the esc..
what i would say is aside from speedo/gearing one cannot ignore a good car setup and driving skills, some of the fast guys will remain faster because they are simply very good drivers...
lastly i am sure SP will be coming out with a newer faster software that will compete with the tekin 203.. probably sp 2.1 pro stock and it's software
here is my best 107 setup
ESC: SP GT 2.0 (PRO)
Software: 107
FDR: 104/47*1.9 = 4.23
Battery: Thunder Power 7.4v 40C
Motor: SP V3 17.5R
Track: 100 Foot Straight away total 100/50 foot
SP ESC Timing: 26 degrees
DRRS: 9
Drag Brake: 25%
Motor Timing: 10 degrees
Capacitor: SP Super Cap
if the motor is coming off too hot, i would go to 22 timing on the esc..
And you should comparing with
same Motor Turn and FDR,Battery, same Car, with TEKIN/SPX
otherwise it doesn't mean anything yet, or have you ?
#2256
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Solara -- Thanks for the response... I am pretty sure the ESC is OK -- the LRP cable plug just appears to be under-sized (it is too easy to insert/pull out of the ESC -- it also does not have any locking notch to engage with the socket on the ESC... I have not yet figured out what the problem was with the Novak cable, and I WILL order an SP cable, just to be safe..
However, for now, I may have to either try the "tape trick" to make the cable I have a tighter fit or see if the Novak has some molding flash that prevents it from seating... At the track, in the heat of competition, it is hard to accurately diagnose some things. I have had such great performance and relaibility from my GT2.0 LPF's that this just caught me by surprise -- especially since I had never had a problem before, even with the combo using Novak motors (I've used both a 13.5 SS and Ballistic 13.5's with the other SP GT2.0 LPF and had great luck)..
PS: The new v3 13.5 is a GREAT MOTOR! when the cable was working right, this new motor is STRONG! better torque and better top end than the Ultrasporstman 13.5 I had been doing so well with. Motor temps indicate I can still gear up, gaining even more speed!
PS2: I should point out that a cable problem like this with a Novak ESC would have been MUCH worse -- A Novak ESC will NOT even run without the sensor cable connected! With the SP ESC, I was at least able to finish the main (the SP just switched over to sensorless operation automatically -- some cogging at low speed and loss of top end, but IT FINISHED THE RACE!).
However, for now, I may have to either try the "tape trick" to make the cable I have a tighter fit or see if the Novak has some molding flash that prevents it from seating... At the track, in the heat of competition, it is hard to accurately diagnose some things. I have had such great performance and relaibility from my GT2.0 LPF's that this just caught me by surprise -- especially since I had never had a problem before, even with the combo using Novak motors (I've used both a 13.5 SS and Ballistic 13.5's with the other SP GT2.0 LPF and had great luck)..
PS: The new v3 13.5 is a GREAT MOTOR! when the cable was working right, this new motor is STRONG! better torque and better top end than the Ultrasporstman 13.5 I had been doing so well with. Motor temps indicate I can still gear up, gaining even more speed!
PS2: I should point out that a cable problem like this with a Novak ESC would have been MUCH worse -- A Novak ESC will NOT even run without the sensor cable connected! With the SP ESC, I was at least able to finish the main (the SP just switched over to sensorless operation automatically -- some cogging at low speed and loss of top end, but IT FINISHED THE RACE!).
#2257
i am racing in the 17.5 class so everyone runs 17.5 from one brand or another, people are running anything from a duo, duo2, lrp x12, novak and speed passion v2 and v3 motors, but speedos are mostly either tekin or spx also most folks here are using similar 40c to 50c type lipo batteries as well
my motor temps are around 155-160 in the above setup, not sure the temp on the esc but i have the stock sp fan running on it..
i am currently racing with the same cars as well (xray t2/t3) that are running Tekin and SPX... I know off the line at start of the race my car has much more torque but Tekin 203 will pass me fairly easily once the turbo kicks in...
I think what i was trying to point out to in my observation is that car setup and driving skills are also a big part of the equation... i think you are probably at a greater competitive advantage by being a better driver and knowing car setup really well vs having the fastest speedo/motor or an expensive new car
#2258
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
Can anyone shed some light on whats going on with my motors. I have had 2 ultra sportsman 13.5 motors and both have cooked themselves after only a very short time of having them. The 2nd one cooked yesterday after only the 2nd run from new. I used the suggested gearing that the motor came with and after the first run was temp at 58deg celcius. After 3 mins of my 2nd race, about 3 mins into it the motor suddenly slowed so i pulled off. Temp gun showed 134deg celcius. Cars drivetrain is really free running and the speed control (Speed Passion GT2.0 Pro) was only at 56deg. I really dont know what im doing wrong but its getting really really expensive having to buy motors all the time and quite frankly, 2 motors in such a short time im regretting ever buying speed passion products. Please help
(2) Gearing...you said you used the suggested FDR, what would that be?
Give us these info and we can start from there.....
I had one motor blew (brand new motor) within 3 minutes cause I was using a prototype software with no suggested FDR....blowing motor is what I was expected (Gear it too low was the reason). But if using the suggesed software, with suggested FDR...I have no SP motor melting problem including 2 first generation SP 13.5 motor that is more then 3 years old.
#2259
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (66)
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 762
From: Mississippi
I am running the lpf with the 107 software with a 17.5 and our track has a 75 foot straightaway, I am faster on the straight and more punch inthe infield than the spx s/s and The ko's but can't touch the topend of the tekin. But I can put down the same lap times as the tekins. Also I played with the 107 & 110 this weekend and for me the 107 has much more punch and delivered 2 more mph on the radar gun on the straight with same fdr and motor timing, but did also produce about 10 degrees more motor temp. Hope this helps someone.
#2261
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
by no means this is an official and detailed comparison analysis of the different speed controls, I have all three of them and tried running them all and ended up staying with SP gear
i am racing in the 17.5 class so everyone runs 17.5 from one brand or another, people are running anything from a duo, duo2, lrp x12, novak and speed passion v2 and v3 motors, but speedos are mostly either tekin or spx also most folks here are using similar 40c to 50c type lipo batteries as well
my motor temps are around 155-160 in the above setup, not sure the temp on the esc but i have the stock sp fan running on it..
i am currently racing with the same cars as well (xray t2/t3) that are running Tekin and SPX... I know off the line at start of the race my car has much more torque but Tekin 203 will pass me fairly easily once the turbo kicks in...
I think what i was trying to point out to in my observation is that car setup and driving skills are also a big part of the equation... i think you are probably at a greater competitive advantage by being a better driver and knowing car setup really well vs having the fastest speedo/motor or an expensive new car
i am racing in the 17.5 class so everyone runs 17.5 from one brand or another, people are running anything from a duo, duo2, lrp x12, novak and speed passion v2 and v3 motors, but speedos are mostly either tekin or spx also most folks here are using similar 40c to 50c type lipo batteries as well
my motor temps are around 155-160 in the above setup, not sure the temp on the esc but i have the stock sp fan running on it..
i am currently racing with the same cars as well (xray t2/t3) that are running Tekin and SPX... I know off the line at start of the race my car has much more torque but Tekin 203 will pass me fairly easily once the turbo kicks in...
I think what i was trying to point out to in my observation is that car setup and driving skills are also a big part of the equation... i think you are probably at a greater competitive advantage by being a better driver and knowing car setup really well vs having the fastest speedo/motor or an expensive new car
But I can say this...if your track has more then 75 foot long straight, V203 is definitely the FASTEST.
#2263
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
I also recommand those $250 netbook....you can watch movie while wrenching cars plus save/create report on your software testing.
#2264
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,295
From: Chicago Illinois USA
AMTS set at 6, DRRS set at 7....motor timing @ stock.



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