I got mine from Office Depot for 6 bucks.

Hey guys I have seen pics of modded sleeves with bigger tapers on the bottom. What are the benefits of doing this?

I got mine from Home depot, it costs about $5 including tax.
I love that one, it has two x180 degree graduation, no need to calculate ( getting lasy ). It is made out of lexan or similar clear plastic-very right tool for us.

It is removing extra friction from the bottom. It is realy doesn't need to have any sealing on the bottom, so we made realy big tapper there. But it has limit, if it is too big, the piston will go out of straight line and will hit exhaust window's top line. So everything is reasonble limit. Can tell you, that one is one of the realy big secret of design, too many things are involve in this issue and a lot tries were done to find right tapering.

To add some info on engine modding secrets, can tell you, I don't have a lot of secrets from anybody, more then that on the beginnignof my present here in forum I offer my help for everyone here. More then that I was already on the process to build my motor and in the mean time offer to very respectible moddifier to supply him with my parts at very discounted price for his needs ( but i even didn't get respond). I know all my parts can be mesured and try to copy, materials can be checked for chemical constraction etc, but still don't see any secrets in it and ready to share with everyone. I do have some technological secrets, but it has nothing to do with modding. I can't release technology of piston material manufacturing, but I can supply anybody who needs with ready pistons ( by specs) or blank pistons, ready to be crinding to fit.
But unfortunately nobody needs my help in manufacturing, that is realy fine with me. Beside these couple secrets I can release any possible info on my work with engines and I am doing it so far and happy if somebody will use my expirience and knowolodge.

It must close straight, try to fix it.
The numbers are realy good, try to save them.
On exhaust, all Novas based engines ( not only them) have arc on the top line. It is some their theory, but I use staright line theory. Don't overcut that line, too much of exhaust will cut your torq on bottom end ( dwell time will be too short).
have fun and if you have more questions, please ask

Efdward:
I did all the mods you suggested, I think I may have goten the taper wrong on the low speed needle. The engine loads up even with the low speed needle turned all the way in ,the mid range is set to the middle of the carb opening. When I replaced the needle with a stock one everything was perfect, this engine has throttle responce out the WAZOO!I guess I will have to try to make another needle to see if I can get it right.

Hey Paul. Seems for me like needle isn't sharp enough-too lean on the bottom. Try to sharp it more, but don't touch the lenght please.

Anybody got any pics of a modded crank? I know some people \Dremmel the end scoop but how?

Cheers

Hey guys what are some of the ROAR legal mods you can do to an engine?

My website has pictures of some modified engines.

http://murnanmodified.5u.com/

Hi Uriah....

Will see you on Ft. Myers... want to talk with you and discuss some ideas regarding engines. Plan to go with Sirios or with the almighty RR12L3 you did lately?

What's up, I will be in Ft. Myers, and look forward to meeting you. I think I will run the RR, but I'm still undecided because my Sirio was extremely fast down there for the warmup race two weekends ago, but there is the reliability issue with their rods. I think the RR may be perfect on that track.

Hi Grinder
Long time no talk...Yes I'm having same problem with my Sirio Evo2 concerning premature wear on conrod......engine is extremely fast but.......conrods???? I just hope Sirio come up with a solution for this.
Good Luck at Winternats.
AFM

The problem is not the quality of the rod itself, but a brand new Sirio rod has too much play in it.