As I stated before the new Gx rods have the same rod bushing dia. as before, I checked new rods out of the package. The new coated cranks are slightly bigger because of the plating, but the rods are the same as they have always been.

Rex

This is how I check them, it reads down to .0001 inch or .003 mm.

If you are looking for more bottom end power then you could get a new 5 port p/s/r. If you are happy with your current motor but it is low on compression then I recommend just having the engine rebuilt and the sleeve resized. I charge $37.00 to rebuild an engine, I would also change the carb body for you, the parts are extra.

Rex

I can only go on factory specs and advice from those in the know, and that's what I have been told. I advise my customers to use the rod listed for their Gen of motor to alleviate any possibility of problems. If people want to fit old rods to new cranks and new rods to old cranks, then go for it. But don't come to me with a broken motor crying foul and expecting a replacement
The advice given is done so in good faith. You can take it or leave it

well mate ill be taking ur advice. might need acouple of older rods too. bring them down to the north islands and a turbo head aswell.

or should i save the coin and get a new motor?

cheers shane

Thanks for the quick responses guys. For the carb you guys think that just the carb body (amain part #GOT22-2001) would suffice for now?

I was on amain and saw the whole p/s/rod set for like $60 that is super cheapppp compared to my picco and nova motors you can only afford a rod for that much!! I'll run this engine to the ground then pick up the new gx. I'm really impressed with the quality of go engines and to top it off the parts are really affordable. Wonder why pro's aren't running these mills??

Mate, I would put a few pennies away and get a new GX-7R for that buggy. You will be very impressed !!
I will check in before the NI to see if you want anything. I will have a sh-t load of parts with me anyway, so anything you do need I should have down there.

22-2001-P2 is the baby you want. No more plastic inserts to break on these.
Get the new nitrile rubber OR-0004 and OR-0014 O Rings as well to replace the old ones when you fit the new carb.
The really early GO's had a few floors, and unfortunately became the butt of a lot of bad comments from knockers. These same people now still knock the new products (some 6 models removed from the originals) without really knowing anything about them. These are the same people who buy super expensive motors and expect them to last forever because of the extra money they paid for them. Ha ha, there's one born every minute.
The new GX Series motors are right up there. The image of the GO motors has taken on new strength over the last 6 months, with a lot of people joining the trend. We have had a good response in the Southern Hemisphere with some top drivers wanting to run these motors. I don't think it will be long before you see some well known names giving them a try.

Very true, I am expecting 2010 to be a great year for GO here in the states too. A new line of top notch motors and a first class new distributer = succes in the making.

Hey All

As previously stated re Rods and crank pins being the same as before , this is incorrect information. Please dont base your purchases on this info .

New Crank pins are 4.99 mm the .003 is added by the TiNi coating. The new rods have different dia too.

Rex i dont know if the rod you are measuring is new or not but it looks like its been used . this will give you a different reading . Its also a good idea to get into some digital read out gear if you want to measure accurately down past .01 mm incriments.

Cheers MM

That's what I'm talking about

Interesting Mark, could you please post pics of the
old and new style con rods being measured with your
digital gear? I would like to see the digital readings.
Also, who makes your digital measuring devices?
I am looking to invest in a descent digital measuring
set-up.

cool im' gonna go ahead and order the 22-2001-P2 carb body...

Any ideas how do I pull out the broken plastic sleeve from inside of the crank case?

I measured brand new rods right out of the package, Gx (pro)and older ones. I will measure some more though. The picture is just to show the bore guage not the actual rod, yes that one is used.

Mark, I posted that this bore guage reads down to .0001 inch or .003 mm, that is more accurate than .01mm as you stated. This bore guage I use is well over $1000.00 new.

Rex

can some one post some good internal pics of the GX after a gallon or 2 has been through it?


so no more reg go's are being manufactured anymore?

The anniversary motor and the sport models are similar to the older models. The sport crank will work in other models, you have to grind off the nub.

Rex

i generally use Mitutoyo and Testers Measuring equipment , always been happy with them . I use a digital Caliper and Digital micrometer , i also have a standard micrometer but i find them harder to read personally . For bores i have a set of steel set poles used to allign and calibrate CNC machines etc . These are extremely accurate. This is what i use here , when i want to get really accurate ise my Partners Engineering work shop. He has some real nice stuff there ... more than i could afford .

The point is for future is to use digital READ OUT . Its way more easy to read than to use standard gauge in terms of READING accurately past 0.01 mm incriments.