31LikesHow to solder correctly (a not so brief lesson)
12-23-2009, 12:46 PM
#61
Ok, this explanation reassures me, thanks Marine!
New question: why do you write "too much" solder in those examples in your drawing?
I thought that "too much" were only when it's too much between the post and the wire, but in the case of your two examples it's seem to me to have only the effect of fortifying the result. Am I wrong?
New question: why do you write "too much" solder in those examples in your drawing?
I thought that "too much" were only when it's too much between the post and the wire, but in the case of your two examples it's seem to me to have only the effect of fortifying the result. Am I wrong?
Too much solder... More solder is not better for the connection, it does not make it stronger or electrically superior. Having too much solder can hide bad solder flow problems, is can also weaken the connection by having extra solder flowing into the un-stripped section of wire, making it break easier. Its best to use just enough solder to make a connection, it has less resistance and holds up better.
Well if you can not get it out with some pliers with the iron on high, you may need a new one.
I read on the page of "W.S. Deans Racing Silver Solder 1 oz." on Towerhobbies' site that "Silver or Gold plating requires a special solder. Ordinary solder causes a chemical reaction which will degrade the joint. Deans Racing Solder is 2% silver with high activity ProFlux. [...] The Best Solder for Silver and Gold Plated Surfaces."
Marketing or truth?
Marketing or truth?
But the issue is not a big problem because gold and silver plated electrical components are designed to be used in mechanical/contact type connections like plugs and bullet connections. This is because gold and silver do not corrode as easily, and the addition of electricity and two types of metals causes a lot of corrosion, the gold plating stops/slows that process. Any normal part designed for solder will not be gold plated. (at least the solder tab area) So don't worry about that, Gold and silver plated parts cost a lot more than normal ones, a set of deans plugs would cost near $10 instead of $4.
Silver solder is harder to use and is actually more poisonous than lead solder. To me, unless it is absolutely needed, its benifits are not worth its problems.
It also has a higher acidic flux, with is harsher on components and iron tips, meaning it is even more important to clean up after. In the real world, there is no such thing as No-clean flux.
12-23-2009, 02:17 PM
#62
Tech Initiate
Too much solder... More solder is not better for the connection, it does not make it stronger or electrically superior. Having too much solder can hide bad solder flow problems, is can also weaken the connection by having extra solder flowing into the un-stripped section of wire, making it break easier. Its best to use just enough solder to make a connection, it has less resistance and holds up better.
Can we say that, once we obtained a successfully result like that on the left, adding solder to reach the result on the right adds mechanical resistence without decreasing electric resistence?
The question is: is Sn63Pb37 + RMA flux the best for gold and silver plated parts too?
By the way, I notice that some RC wires appears externally grey instead of reddish like copper. Why? what material are they done of?
Last edited by Imbuter2000; 12-23-2009 at 03:23 PM.
12-23-2009, 04:25 PM
#63
Look at this new drawing: img707.imageshack.us/img707/5607/screenshotfg.jpg
Can we say that, once we obtained a successfully result like that on the left, adding solder to reach the result on the right adds mechanical resistence without decreasing electric resistence?
The question is: is Sn63Pb37 + RMA flux the best for gold and silver plated parts too?
By the way, I notice that some RC wires appears externally grey instead of reddish like copper. Why? what material are they done of?
Can we say that, once we obtained a successfully result like that on the left, adding solder to reach the result on the right adds mechanical resistence without decreasing electric resistence?
The question is: is Sn63Pb37 + RMA flux the best for gold and silver plated parts too?
By the way, I notice that some RC wires appears externally grey instead of reddish like copper. Why? what material are they done of?
No, lead solder is not ideal for gold or silver plated parts, but silver solder also has tin in it, and that is not good for plated parts as well. True gold/silver safe solders are not readily available and are harder to use and need higher heat. But like I said, plated parts are usually not designed for soldering. The parts that are plated are the parts designed for physical contact connections, like CPU sockets and PC board connections or High end audio/visual plugs. Deans plugs are not gold plated, or they are not listed as such. I will check up on that and the traxxas connectors. If they are, I would suspect that they are not plated at the solder area.
The thin plating on the connectors would not really cause much problems though. It takes a 5% concentration of gold in the solder to negatively impact the connection to any real degree. There is not all that much gold in the plating.
Some wire is coated in tin or other metal for corrosion resistance. Some is even silver coated, but that type is costly, and needs special solder or crimp type connections. Since the special solders are hard to get and use, and crimp type connectors are rare in RC the use of the silver coated wire is not needed or its benefits are negated by the use of improper solders and connectors.
Last edited by marine6680; 12-23-2009 at 04:36 PM.
12-24-2009, 09:08 AM
#65
12-25-2009, 07:19 PM
#68
More solder does not make things better. If you are running on brushless modified motor.. Excess solder will melt causing short to motor & ESC. The wiring to the motor just melt & disconnects.
Hence when solder you need to ensure each every strand of the wires stick properly to the terminal with enough solder.
Hence when solder you need to ensure each every strand of the wires stick properly to the terminal with enough solder.
12-25-2009, 10:07 PM
#69
what are some iron's yall are using, besides the team checkpoint? I'm thinking about upgrading my single temp iron now that Im actually starting to use it some.
12-25-2009, 10:18 PM
#70
If the tabs are large (contain a lot of metal/surface area) then they act like a heat sink and you need a very good iron and large tip to solder them well. You may also need to up the temp about 50*, no higher than 750* though.
The Checkpoint is just a re-branded Hakko. It is a good Iron, and I pick it over the actual Hakko because the graphics skin for it does not cover the temp markings. Weller makes some decent Irons for around the same price, but their quality ones, comparable to the Checkpoint and Hakko will cost around $150. The LPR station is thoroughly kick a** but is over kill for hobby use, it is basically a high end unit used for electronics repair, and you pay that high end price as well.
12-25-2009, 10:22 PM
#71
More solder does not make things better. If you are running on brushless modified motor.. Excess solder will melt causing short to motor & ESC. The wiring to the motor just melt & disconnects.
Hence when solder you need to ensure each every strand of the wires stick properly to the terminal with enough solder.
Hence when solder you need to ensure each every strand of the wires stick properly to the terminal with enough solder.
12-25-2009, 11:44 PM
#72
If your solder connections are melting and coming apart when running the electronics you have other issues to worry about...
Personally I like the Lead Free Novak Silver Solder.
Personally I like the Lead Free Novak Silver Solder.
12-26-2009, 12:39 PM
#74
12-26-2009, 06:39 PM
#75
Lead free sucks, and silver solders are more poisonous than the leaded stuff. 63/37 is the best solder you can use.