Has anyone tried the inline steerig block from the Rc10L3O on a 12th scale ???

Anyone running the old school front end on the
quad12? if so, can you PM, or email, or post pics and good general starting setup for 19t on a med-high bite tight (40x80 new ozite) carpet track?

Thanks,
Barry

BarryH-- I have done some testing with the old skool front and this is what I came up with.

Front:

.020 springs w/Trinity red stuff on the king pins and 1 degree of caster

Rear:

Spring steel T plate
Blue spring w/30wt oil in the shock
Corally Blue in the tubes

Purple and Grey tires and a CEFX body. The CEFX body gives the car a lot of steering so if you want less go to a Parma speed 8.

I am also running the old skool front end on my Quad 12.

Servo shoe gooed flat to the chassis and pushed forward with ball stud in the back of the servo saver.
.020 front springs with 5000wt diff oil on kimg pins
0.5 degree toe out, camber set so tire wear flat
T.M. Purple or Cyan, or Magenta front tires

In my CRC tubes, I am currently playing between Mugen 5000wt diff oil and Corally Red Stuff (which I find very stiff).
Adam the blue stuff must make it super stiff

OKAY, David, very good description of what goes on with the capacitor. Now a question for you related to the above quote.

1) How about a 35V 1000Mfd cap from RadioShack? Is there anything special about the device from Digikey?

2) If you do not throttle your car such that you get back to neutral throttle, does the capacitor recharge and help the motor supply extra punch? In other words, do you need to throttle your car such that you return to neutal frequently so that the capacitor can recharge.

3) Will battery run time be reduced when using the capacitor?

4) Why is high impedance required to work in a high speed circuit?

I disagree with Adam on this one. Sorry, but I have run the Rugrat with the spings on the dampners to handle the tweak of the chassis and provide return to chassis neutral after a turn. It works! This could be a valuable tuning option for you when the track surfaces are on the extreme side. Some have tried tweaking with both the t-plate screws and the springs with success. Good racing to you.

About capacitors, please read the following topic from start to finish with some though and you might get a hang of the physics behind the power caps:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...&threadid=4245

davidl.... Thanks for the input.

BTW.... We met at Tltyard during Mod Nats. I was the guy pulling my esc out of my carpet knife. I was one of the region 2 campers. And I had to paint my wing cuz of you!!! HAHAHA.

I haven't run the car yet, but will Saturday. I was thinking of running side springs just because I currently have only a .060 t-bar. I figured I might need to have stiffer side to side action than the t-bar could provide. Any input?

Also, since you have experience with this could you give me a quick comparison of the two AE t-bars to the Silva spring steel one (or is there more than one?).

Thanks again.

Bodido,

I have run both the thick T bar, and the spring steel.

The fiberglass bars will fatigue, and get a " soft spot " in them.

The steel bars are great, they have the same , if not stiffer side to side flex, which helps steering, and a little softer front to rear flex, which keeps the back of the car down over the bumps, and ripples.

Bodido, Chad is that you? Hit me up [email protected]. Holla!

I read the suggested thread today and found some of the answers to my questions. I am still vague on questions 2 and 3. I didn't feel the thread answered question 4, but I will take the word of the thread that the low impedance capacitor was the correct one for high speed circuits. Could it be the best choice for something else such as circuit resistance through the loop of the battery motor and speedo? I think that is it.

Anyway, thanks to Jesse T for the insight. I thought you did an excellent job on the thread of digging into the issue.

Bodido - You can put the parts you have to good use. Go ahead and tweek the car with that .062 t-plate and add the white springs to the dampners. Also, you should try some stiffer center springs to make up for the softness of the t-plate. Match that to the track surface where you may have some bumps or it may be smooth, or you have carpet that is inherently slick. You will have to decide that part on your own. But the good news is that you have an assortment of springs and oil to try.

Now the t-plate comparison topic which is very popular. I disagree with Casey in that each t-plate has it's own characteristics and is good for a particular application. The fiberglass t-plates have a dampening characteristic that the spring steel t-plate doesn't have. I suggest the fiberglass on bumpy tracks because you don't have to depend on the center shock to do all of the dampening. And you can adjust the degree of each based on whether you use 2 or 3 screws to mount to motor pod to the t-plate. The spring steel t-plate might have too much rebound in its natural frequency to use on a bumpy track because you might end up making the center shock too stiff. The side to side stiffness differs between the three so you can use the spings to give more options as stated in the paragraph above.

So, if you have a tremendously bumpy track, you can use the .062 fiberglass t-plate with a good center shock and spring combination that will let the rear of the car settle in for forward bite. Then you can use the springs on the dampners to adjust the response of the car to fit the characteristics of the layout.

Most important thing ------Tires. You have to be using the right tires before any of this makes a difference. And there are different tires available for these applications. Also, the different suppliers products have different characteristics, too. Good luck and good racing.

davidl - I disagree when you say that the spring steel t-plate might have too much rebound in its natural frequency to use on a bumpy track. I think the Silva spring steel t-plate destroys the fiberglass t-plats on bumpy tracks. Any inherent rebound dampening qualities of the different t-plate materials can be completely controlled by the center shock and damper tubes. I think tuning ability is greatly simplified and improved be decoupling the increased dampening (compared to spring steel) of the fiberglass material and the shock/tube dampening. On average, I run 10 wt higher in the center shock with the spring steel t-plate but fine tuning the dampening still depends on the track.

The spring steel t-plate does what fiberglass t-plates can't do. It combines the roll stiffness of a .075 t-plate with the forward compression stiffness of a .063 t-plate... with much, much, much more longevity and consistency. I have found on carpet that my car handles better and is quicker with the spring steel t-plate. It's kind of like running a .075 fiberglass t-plate that is good over the bumps and doesn't wear out after 1 or 2 weeks.

I do agree that each t-plate has its own characteristics and is good for a particular application, but I think right now the spring steel t-plate will work better then fiberglass t-plates in most applications.

Hey Mike,

Where can I get my hands on one of those Silva T-plate for my RC12L3? BTW, you going up to RC madness this weekend for the January Jam?

Later,

Silva distributes his products through IRS. You can get the Silva t-plate from anybody that sells IRS - hobby store, online, IRS website, etc.

Unfortunatly I won't be able to make the January Jam... I might make it up to the South Shore race. Not sure though...