Tim,
I'll send you a private message with info on the Quad12 and my contact info.

D.P.

Thanks for the replies guys...I found one from Pro-match that im going to pick up. thanks

DP!!!! Would you send me the info on the Quar 12 too? LC

Or is there basic info in this thread? So much discussion about this car! What are the particulars?

Graphitedust,
I'll send you a private message with info on the Q12 as well.

D.P.

I'd like to ask for your thoughts and prayers this weekend...I'm running mod 12th for the first time at least 10 years... My poor 12L3....it will be begging for a stock motor to be bolted back in it...

I'll pray for you if you pray for me...

I'm running Stock 12th scale..for the first time ever on Tuesday...

I'm used to running my HPI Savage offroad..and when running my HPI Micro on the same course I thnk it traveled more miles rolling over sideways than it did rolling straight ahead...

Just pray that I can remember that you're not supposed to go for big air jumping the corner dots

brozly- May god be with you! jk. Mod 12th scale isnt that bad, its just very different than everything else in some ways. Its actually alot like mod buggy outside than anything else. You never want to go full throttle unless your wheels are pointed straight or else you will draw too many amps and dump. Its basically all about how little battery you can use. If you are really good with the throttle than you can run a lower turn motor and have more speed, however, if you are greedy and use more than you need you will dump and have to run a high turn motor to comensate. Alot of guys actually just run 19t turn motors in mod to get used to the speed without having to worry as much about throttle control.

windsorguy99- Have a fun time. 12th scale is a blast. Take it easy, remmeber to tweak your car and make sure all of the car is set properly (ie all correct right heigh and all of that stuff), and to remember how much you sauce your tires each run. I suggest starting out with full rear always (always run full rear sauce) and in the inside half of the front tires. Also I dont know how much you know about 12th scale, so this might be repetiative (but please dont be insulted if you already know this stuff, lol).

-start out with around 50% dual rate, and make sure to check your endpoints BEFORE you ever do a lap

-always ask someone who knows there stuff if you have any questions. most people are very friendly and willing to help, and it makes a hgue difference

- are your tires trued? You really dont want to run a larger tire than a 1.83 front or a 1.93 rear, or else you will have all sorts of problems with handling and traction rolling and such... (this is for carpet, asphalt sometimes you run fresh tires).

-Remember, take it easy, everyone started out somewhere, just try to learn and have a fun time!

I'm a sponge...tryign to suck up as much info as I can....

I'm pushing my luck though...I took the approach that if I'm goign to get into it...get into it all the way...

Bloody Knife, GM Purple SX9, JR 3550, Fantom 410 P2k tuned stock motor, Fantom 1.180+ pack and just bought a Turbo 35 BL Stelath to give those batteries the love the deserve.

I'll be fortunate if my pretty little graphite chassis isn't a pile of splinters after the first turn.

I plan on setting up my ESC and then dialing some of the speed out of it for a little while....adjust the throttle end point so that I CAN'T go full out....otherwise the chicane at the end of our track's longest straight will help my launch my car into the wall as I try to carve the corner too tight... (already doing this with my micro)

The hottest laps on our track layout have been 12.9-13.0s...Im turning 21's with my micro second night out...the hot drivers are doing 19's....

I'm thinking anything in the 18-19 range for the first few nights is respectable.

I've latched onto a couple locals (that tempted me into buying into on-road) that are both running CRC's....which is why I went that direction instead of the reportedly easier to tune Corally's..

They didn't mention anything about bringin the tires down to size though. I figured that I'd be slow enough off the start that I'd let the chunking shew the tires down???

A page or two back a a few racers said they had some old 1/12 cars still..... Post some pics of your vintage cars.

If you wanted the best car you would have gotten a Rev. 3 lol

Anyway, the world needs more people like you! Willing to go all out for 12th scale!

I wouldnt be so hard on yourself though, you would be amazed at how easy to drive a well maintaned and set up 12th scale is. Just remmeber, if you have any Q's make sure to ask them, because if you dont thats when problems normally occur.

Also if you true down yoru tires, you have a lesser chance of chunking. the car will also be alot more drivable and consistant with cut down tires.

stormperson-it is true-a properly set-up and maintained 12th scale is the MOST fun RC car to drive!!! Mine built by Mo is so good I am putting it away and building a "Club" car exactly like it to run. I'll break this one back out two weeks before the Champs or Nationals!!

Exactly what does Mo do that is so special. I NEED to know. Please let me see the light and take in the wisdom. Seriuosly, I'm new to 1/12th scale and would like some setup and tuning tips.

We have a grand total of 1 Rev 3 at the track...and he does well with it...mind you..he was just as fast with his Corally G3...

The Rev3 felt a little more free with how the rear pod was floating...and has the old school front end...

I seriously thought about it....but in the end...the parts availabilty locally and the number of people to soak information on setup from was just toomuch greater so I got the Knife instead...

I was also shocked to find out that the Rev3 had even worse quality control than the CRC's when it came to making sure that you had all the proper parts in your kit....

Of just a few people that have complained locally on the CRC's 3 were missing complete shock assemblies, 1 was missing damper tubes, mine had the wrong cone washer and 2 different plastic sliders for my damper tubes...but there have been lots of kits sold...

The Rev 3 was missing lots of parts too...and was theonly local kit sold....

Guess it'd work out to a 30-40% defect rate from the local sample for the CRC's and 100% for Speedmerchant

I woudnt say the Rev3 was missing parts as that denotes a QC issue!! It doesnt come with certain parts that is true. But they arent missing!! YOu need two turnbuckles for the steering and some ball-cups and motor screws. I think thats all.


Oh and some damper fluid and shock oil. I guess the idea is anyone buying a Rev3 is a pretty hard core racer and owns most of that stuff anyways. The only hard parts to find on the kit are the Losi medium, light and heavy hydra fluid for the dampners.


Ray

Mo's performances are the result of meticulous preparation, and constant experimentation with set-up, both with chassis and motor. It doesn't hurt that the guy can flat-out wheel a car as well. When Mo started running with us, he was average at best, two years later he was fast as hell. All because he is so methodical and so driven.

The only real tips he has are to try everything and narrow it down to what WORKS FOR YOU. Believe me, I've had the privelege of watching him work for several seasons now.