ha

ferget it.. found their website

Hey Everyone,

I'm new to 1/12, and having a blast. Recently I was looking through my car to notice there was a little more bump steer that I like to have in my cars. Is there any quick fix to this? I have a Hyperdrive 1/12 on road car (based of an RC12L3). I but the servo flat on the chassis so the links are fairly striaght. Any info would be great. Thanks.

-Sushi Boy

Moving the servo forward affects akerman. Having the links flat affects bump steer. A lot of guys are running the servo flat on the chassis with the new front ends. The links that connect the servo saver to the hub carriers should be flat horizonal. If you mount the servo at an angle, this is harder to do, but the geometry seems to be right that way anyway.

That's cool, is it any stiffer than the blue chassis do you know?

Anybody know where I can get some caster shims or wedges for the old school front end? Even a part number would be helpful also. Thanks!

call Calandra they have them or got to www.teamcrc.com and buy them there

Tres, Do you have a link or part number? Thanks Phil

What are the diferences of running old skool front end verses dynamic front end? I know of the 12 regulars we have there are 3 who switched to the old. What are the advantages or disadvantages. I have the CRC 3.2 and took it out for the first time sat. I was run into pipe and car was undriveable. (broke rear pod plate) I was done for evening. Then the guy next to me broke his also. Is This a common problem and Is the an easy fix beside puchasing more plates. Thanks Phil

I have broken one rear plate. I hit hard enough that some thing had to break. I found checking all screws once a week helps keep from breaking things too. Two weeks ago I hit a board hard enough to break my rear wheel and bend the left clamp on hub. Gotta love those graphite axles!

I use steel countersunk Allan head screws in my chasis.

Old school and new front ends are discussed here a lot. Basicly the old one is more solid, cheaper lighter, and simpler. I run the new one right now, but might try the old one too. New front end is supposed to have more steering IN the corner. Maybe a little more agressive.

Welcome to 1/12th!

David Root

Old new New style front end...

The old style is simplier, lighter and slightly less adjustable, you can still adjust castor, camber, toe, and springs, where as the new style you can also adjust reactive castor and camber in finer amounts (its a turnbuckle instead of a shim).

The new style does provide for slightly more steering but it is really hard and takes alot of time to build one correctly. Everything binds and you cant assume that because you place the castor shims the same on each side that the castor is actually the same, since the molds are off, you sometimes have to put 2 shims behind the arm and one shim behind and one shim infront to have equal castor on both sides, and it can change race to race depending if you hit something... Its really just a pain, and its very easy to have the car start handling really poorly because of the front end, but alot of people dont realize that its the front end making the car handle poorly, not something else.

I have tried both and run the old style front end for both mod and stock.

Can someone post a pic of the old skool front end please.

I have tried looking back through the thread but must have missed it.

thanks

The speedmerchant REV 3 comes with the old style front end. You can see the pic on thier site. www.teamspeedmerchant.com

I personally like the adjustments of the new style. You can also adjust roll center and everythin is a finer adjustment like mentioned before.

here it is

Thanks guy's - I just wondered what the old skool front end looked like and how well it worked and survived visits to the track markers.

The local track is very unforgiving of those without superstar thumbs ( yes - we use stick radio's in the UK ).

My 12L3 handles wierd after what feels like a minor tap.

Do you think the old skool front end is more average driver proof ?