Hey guys, bought a Truggy with a S5 on it. Using a 2050 pipe, what is the recommended plugs for this engine?

I use the O99 plug in all weather hot and cold and it works great. the RB plugs are good to but the O99 is my plug of choice.

For head shims you should have two brass colored shims, one is a thick shim (0.20mm) and one is a thin shim (0.10mm) These are the shims that come stock with the engine. They are rated to run 25% nitro thru the engine at sea level and RB suggests that you run an additional 0.10mm shim to use 30%. I can say that I have run my engines at sea level without adding the extra shim and it was ok but you could be taking a chance.

If you engine is running in the high 200 degree range something is not right, 240 or 250 is the max you should be getting the engine up to and when it's 40 outside you should be running at more like 210. Are you running this engine in a buggy or a truggy? What is the gearing you currently run? Also what is the altitude where you are racing at?

I was wondering, I have a WS7 L2G in my eight 2.0 truggy. It runs great. I am running Byron's gen2 30% Nitro with 9% oil. I didn't add any shims from stock because most people told me most fuels that say 30% are really like 25-28% nitro. My motor ran great all year making me think these people were right.

I was told the EBMods fuel uses real 30% nitro. I was planning on switching over to it next year and wanted opinions?

If you ran the Byrons Pro Driver 30% and it worked fine you should not have anything to worry about. Even if you do end up with an extra 2% nitro with a fuel switch you should not see any issues. From time to time when you are putting after run oil in your engine check the top of the piston. If you see pit marks on the top of the piston that means the engine was pre-detonating and a head shim should be added.

There are a lot of things that go into deck height/shims. When a company tells you that it is shimmed to run 25% nitro, that means 25% at sea level. You could be in a situation like me where I run at 5,000 feet above sea level. For break-in I will leave the headshims stock, once fully broken in I actually remove the thin headshim from the buttom leaving only the thick shim. I also run 30% nitro and a hot glow plug with this combo and never have pre-detonation issues. You also need to take into account what temp glow plug you are using as this can also change what you want to do. Going hotter with your glow plug is a little bit like lowering the deck height, and it's going to cause the fuel to ignite a little bit sooner. When making any changes like this you should watch things closely to ensure you do not have any pre-detonation occurring.

just ordered the buggy9 pipe combo will the OD 97t plugs work well with this engine? any tips on break in would be appreciated. thanks

O97t is what I run. I use heat cycle method to break in my motors. About 10 tanks @ around 200-205, 3 tanks @ 210-215. After that I take it to track to do final break in with few more tanks. Making sure to cool it down between tanks.

The OD plugs do work in these engines, if you can get the RB plugs they will generally last longer than the OD plugs.

Like in2 said the key to breaking the engine in is heat cycle. RB's are very tight when new and they hold their pinch for quite a while. Make sure you heat it up to around 180 prior to starting the engine trying to always keep temps right around 200 degrees. For the engine to be fully broken in it will probably take a good gallon of fuel. If you want to start racing it after about 10 tanks you can do that but your not going to get the full potential of the engine. Generally after about a gallon you will notice you have more power than you have had in the past and the temps also dropped a good 15-20 degrees. You can now tune it for maximum performance. Just make sure your not trying to lean it down and get max performance out of it too soon or your going to overheat and decrease the life of the engine.

B9 VS Shark...hwo do they differ??

My Shark9 is still pretty new so I have not raced it at all yet. I live in Colorado so our season has been delayed due to snow for several months now. The little fuel I have put thru it seems like it has a little more grunt than the B9, but possibly a little less overall horsepower. It is supposed to get better fuel economy than the B9 so I am excited to start running it more.

got my bugg9 9 pipe combo heated it up tp 175 fired right up. idled 1st tank with blow dryer on low setting on engine for entire tank(195), let cool to room temp(80), fattened main neddle 1/2 turn did this 2 more times 450cc total. now its time to get her on the ground but i need snow shoes lol. so i cycled 6 more tanks on the box leaning 1 hour each time 200 degrees constant temp. the rb plug didnt last 1 tank i put the OD97t and its still going. i know its supposed to be on the ground now but i figured it couldnt hurt to idle some more tanks on the box.

Is it snowing in Korea.....

You will love the B9....just awesome motor to have. They take over a gallon to fully break in, but once they do. WOW

When tuning, try and keep the LSN around 3.75 to 4.25 turns out. If you get a lean bogg, even on the bottom, richen the HSN. It is a little tricky, but if you keep the LSN leaner, the motor really come alive.

I run RB 5's for plugs, tried the OD and I found the RB plugs allowed me to really dial the tune in.

Thanks im not a real advanced tuner so you may hear from me again, LOL. I check my settings and right now my bottom is 4.5 top is 4.25+ i havent run it on the ground yet so i dont want to set the top til i get to the track. i know its rich. but with the wheels off the ground it has good top end speed and like the instructions say wait to get it on the ground to tune for race. thanks

Aaron,

What are your HSN and LSN settings on your Killer 9 after break-in. I know the difference in fuel type may have some variances but I don't think it will be that far off? I'm running TQ 30%. I have about 12 tanks through it now and it still has mechanical pinch. I figure your settings will probably get me close to race tune.

Thanks,
Allen Bell