Go-Tech Engines Thread
#9514
there is no one temp to run at with these engines. we can have the exact same engine and mine might run at 240 all the time,yours 210. basically do not tune to temp. I can say we all tune for good bottom to top pull with no hiccups in between.And smoke at full throttle. I personally always set my idle gap[restrictor off] first,then never touch it. then the hsn/lsn I start at flush and usually need to turn the lsn in about 1/1.5 turns. This is with the gen 5.5 carb that i run on all my go-tecs. carb with the red go in the front. the hsn might need to go in a 1/4 turn? once the engine hits the 2 gallon mark I do what everybody else does,switch the rod out for a new one. I also always preheat my engines with a heat gun. If my engine starts to act funny, I do not assume it is the engine.as I usually have all my engines sealed before I run them at all. so 99% of the time when the engine starts to flame out,and I have learned this the hard way,it is usually something besides the engine. I will say that even tho parts are some times hard to get or a pain to get these engines are super reliable. they also last an extremely long time if taken care of properly. I have a 7 port with 12 gallons on it. still has pinch still fires right up when i need it. still competitive. I forgot to mention tune engines after they are fully warmed up! about 3 tanks of run time.
#9517
there is no one temp to run at with these engines. we can have the exact same engine and mine might run at 240 all the time,yours 210. basically do not tune to temp. I can say we all tune for good bottom to top pull with no hiccups in between.And smoke at full throttle. I personally always set my idle gap[restrictor off] first,then never touch it. then the hsn/lsn I start at flush and usually need to turn the lsn in about 1/1.5 turns. This is with the gen 5.5 carb that i run on all my go-tecs. carb with the red go in the front. the hsn might need to go in a 1/4 turn? once the engine hits the 2 gallon mark I do what everybody else does,switch the rod out for a new one. I also always preheat my engines with a heat gun. If my engine starts to act funny, I do not assume it is the engine.as I usually have all my engines sealed before I run them at all. so 99% of the time when the engine starts to flame out,and I have learned this the hard way,it is usually something besides the engine. I will say that even tho parts are some times hard to get or a pain to get these engines are super reliable. they also last an extremely long time if taken care of properly. I have a 7 port with 12 gallons on it. still has pinch still fires right up when i need it. still competitive. I forgot to mention tune engines after they are fully warmed up! about 3 tanks of run time.
That pretty well sums it all up. Like you say, taken care of properly (and that's a big problem with a lot of racers), these engines will last just as long, if not longer then engines twice their price. Plus they make awesome power.I am hoping the parts thing comes right in your neck of the woods in the near future. The factory is pretty onto it with orders, so I guess it's just a matter of distribution throughout the US.
After the last two orders I have done with the factory, I now have literally have every part listed in stock. Common things like rods and bearings etc I have in the dozens, other things like crankcases etc I keep at least 2 in stock.
I know the frustration of waiting for parts to get your motor up and running, that's why I make a point of having plenty of parts for my customers at all times.
You will just have to shift down my way mate. We are only 14,000 miles or so to the south, and we race all year
#9520
#9521
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 2,161
When I hit the lottory !!! I will have the a building built for 1/8 scale gas 250x150 ft long and 18 ft hi rafters ! Just for racing indoor. (or rob a bank) or find a rich old lady in a nursing home, then make her sign the will over to me, but I will have a track!!!!!!



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