Novarossi Conrod Extra Strong/Light Weight R7 (fits P5X/421BX/Plus 21-5/N21BF Limited Edition)
will this rod work in the go 3/5/7 port 21's? sold at a main

i remember mark saying that the brass bush was a differant ID i while back...
on the new gen models , but im sure mark will let us know again ,

Matt do you use these conrods ?

have not tried it yet It s for the gen 5.5 not the gx line

flanno here is doing tests with his after every race meet pulling the engine down and checking he trying to see how long he needs to run his motor befor changing conrod and bearings i think hes over 15 lt so far and no sighns of trouble the new line with the reduced pinch is very good IMO

I think I will do what I have always done. Replace con rod, wrist pin after 2 gallon break in. I have 4-5 conrods here. Thank you massive mods!

I tried the clutch because I have been having issues with the 3 shoe clutches eating bearings ..I found a discussion on this topic and the general opinion was that running one shoe with 1.0 springs and 2 with 1.1 springs means that every time the first shoe engages on it's own it pushes the clutch bell at an angle adding extra strain on the inner bearing until the other two also engage..makes sense to me especially as I keep destroying inner bearings..the 4 shoe clutches you match springs in pairs so clutch bell force is always in balance..anyway it was cheap and postage was reasonable ..came in 3 days from holland to France..spare sets of shoes with springs each time are cheaper than the RMV ones I was using and they reckon they last up to 3 gallons which is probably 5 times longer than the RMV ones..anyway it worked beautifully...I will reserve final judgement till I race with it next year but so far I'm a fan..
and yes as each shoe is lighter springs are softer..I read in a post by the guy who designed and sells it that the tension difference between his 0.9,1.0,and 1.1 springs is only 3% each time so the adjustment is pretty fine anyway..I tried 2x.9 and 2x1.0 but found 4x1.0 snappier..
Yeh I don't see me ever running my 7 port unless the MG66 dies..I am going to race next year then buy an mp9 for the 2011 season then I'll put the 7 port in the 777 and run the MG66 in the mp9..but I think I better keep that plan a secret from the missus for now

The new Rod ID is 5 mm , the new Crank pin is 4.993 mm

the old ones were 4.98 mm id rod and 4.973 mm crank pin

ALSO ! Great News

MM/RCHZ Team Driver, Adam Alexander wins the South Australian Title in Truggy with the GX5 Port ! and you guessed it A Main Fuel ! in the famous words of Alan Partridge , NUMERO ONE !!

ANNND !

We managed a 1,2 & 3 in Monster Truck using Go RTR .28 pull Start engines and you guessed it A Main Fuel !

Darren Nielsen had about 13 litres through his engine before he raced for the SA titles , put another 4 litres through it and WON ! With an RTR engine ! In a Monster Truck ! Im impressed !



M

AMains now has GO con rods for $9.99 and
piston pins are selling for cheap too.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Connecting-Rod

Runne (Trey), I and some others would like to
have a MSRP list from GO Engine USA. Prices
of all GO Engine USA products should be on
said list (ie. engines, engine combos, pipes,
p/s, con rods, cranks ect.). It would be nice
if the web site (go-engine-usa.com) would
provide some of this info, or you can e-mail
me the price list using my e-mail link from
this site.

Hi everyone.
FYI - I spent the best part of a day pickiing brains to find out the proper facts on crankshaft model vs con rod model. I think a lot of us on here where under the impression that all the GX Series parts where retro fitt-able to the earlier model motors. Not quite true. Here it is in a nutshell.

CRANK SHAFTS
Gen 5.5, GX Series TiNi and MG66 TiNi coated cranks can be fitted to all Generations of GO engines - but you must use the right con rod.

CON RODS
The new Pro Con Rod (part # 21-0600) can only be fitted to the Gen 5.5, GX Series TiNi, and MG66 TiNi cranks. This rod is NOT compatible with any Gen 5 or earlier motor.
The Gen 5 and earlier motors require the older Pro Con Rod (part # 28-0600)
Reason being the differing crank pin sizes and internal diameters of the con rod big end bushings given by Massive Mods in his earlier post.

TiNi WRIST PINS
These are compatible with all the GO motors.

For those of you who were unaware, I hope this sheds some light.

This clutch looks like the exactly same clutch losi sells with there kits??? Is it the same just a different color? Just curious. I've been tried and true to M2C clutch systems, the owner mitch has a A+ in customer satisfaction!!! Plus I have a couple of losi's and if it is the same clutch the only thing I noticed was the screws that hold the springs in place tend to seize in place making the heads strip out trying to get them out over time. I think it's due to the fact of the fly wheel heating up then cooling off after so many times. The other plus side to the M2C clutch is, it's alot easier and faster to change shoes and springs out on.

Sounds like you had a really busy day finding my conrod grizz.

Thanks for the great service!

never looked at a losi clutch but the JVD one has no screws at all except for the retaining nut..you just insert the center part and twist..job done.

great info on the conrods guys! Glad I ordered both types!

FYI, the new cranks work with the older pro model engines. When switching the crank, you can use the new conrod... which is lightened a bit.

I've got a fresh order of GX motors, combos, pipes, and parts coming in the next week or so.

Regarding the web site- it's still in process, but is underway. I'm going to sit down with the webmaster tomorrow and iron some things out.

T

(picture on page 616..im not allowed to use links )


Hi..i guess u run a Losi with quick change motor mount??

the gap between the two mounting plates is too narrow..so if u tighten the screws the engine mount stress the engine housing and its break like its seen on ur picture..

It need some dremel work on the engine mount to fit properly.

i had the same problem