One thing I have noticed about the S120 is the tolerances are really tight. Which is good and bad. As the parts wear, they fit better and better but it does make for a little more effort when assembling the kit.

Try opening up the large holes in the T bar that the pivot sockets fit into. Do this with some sandpaper and to a little at a time until the pivot ball sockets fit into the hole with out having to force them in. Take off a little at a time. Remember, you can always take off more but you can’t put it back. Do this until the pivot balls are free and smooth with the two screws in place. You may have to trial fit several times until you get just the right amount removed. Also, do not tighten down the two screws real tight. I just use my thumb and finger and tighten them until they are barley snug. It’s a feel thing. They will not back out as the screws are going into plastic/delrin.

I was tightening quite a bit. However the point at which the wheels stop turning freely is only where the shaft is about half way through the nut, i.e. the threaded portion has only just bit into the nylon inside the nut. At this point the wheels run freely, any further tightening and the whatever resistance increases to the point where the wheels will not turn unless with reasonable force applied.

I am worried that as soon as I've run a few laps one or both wheels are going to decide to travel in different directions to the rest of the car!!

Neither the king pin or the springclip is close to the inside of the rim.

Could it be the wheel itself? I'm using Jaco tyres.

You are doing exactly the right thing. The axles need to be just a little longer. Hopfully in future production runs they will correct that. But, even with the nut only threaded on that much, I have never lost a wheel. I did shop around and found some smaller 3mm nuts which does allow the nut to go on a little more than the kit nuts before the wheel starts to bind.

Cheers, thanks for that. Will look for some other nuts as well

Is there a set up guide from serpent for this car. i got mine off the for sell thread and only got the manual with a base guide line for one road or carpet. hoping for something the explains the more.

Try the second one on the list... It worked pretty well for me!

http://www.serpent.com/racing/setups/

the axles are too short for the jaco wheel, but a thinner nut will work. i found the robitronic scalpel's wheel nuts to work well

It may appear at the IIC Vegas meeting that's on this week

Hi mate, try putting the wheel nut on back to front, so that the nylock bit is closest to the bearing, that may help for now until you find your low profile nuts! Cheers, Chris.

bump

Last I've heard is mid-October.

I just ran my S120 for the first time last night and I'm extremely impressed. This is not my first 12th scale but it is the best handling I've had(Assoc. 12L3, L4, Trinity Switch Blade, and 12R5). Consistent from run to run, and never had to change the car. Not one broken part and yes I hit stuff.........HARD!!! Didn't even tweak. Just the best experience with 12th scale.

nice to hear that, i just bought s120, also i have before 12r5 and i cant wait to run s120
i hear many time that s120 is best handling than eg. 12r5...
i hope so...

You're gonna like it.

I am about get one. got my fingers crossed