The New Werks B5 .21 Racing Engine
#273
Hey guys, just made it back from vacation and trying to catch up on everything (so if you sent me a pm over the last couple of days i will be getting back to you shortly!). Just wanted to see how everyone was doing with their engines so far?
Mo, let me know what you think once you get a chance to try the 2013, I think that you will really like it! I just got the 2056 and 2057 samples in today and sent them up to Kortz who should be running them over the next week so I'll have some comparative info that I'll bounce off of you to see if it jibes with your results. Also sent you an e-mail today regarding the missing shipment, let me know if you got that.
sstoffer, sorry to hear about the bad luck with the Trinity Big Boy pipe! What did you feel was the performance difference when you switched to the 2013?
Marcus, you're right the 2013's are nto the easiest thing to find right now! However Italy is now back from vacation so I should have some more available in about 2 weeks at the shops!
smb17, glad to hear that everything is good on the engine!
BermyDomRepRC, I'm assuming that's you Keenan lol! Thanks bud, the response so far has been really positive and I'm stoked! We put a lot of time into developing this engine and it's looking like it will pay off! You still in Bermuda or did you make it back home yet?
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
Mo, let me know what you think once you get a chance to try the 2013, I think that you will really like it! I just got the 2056 and 2057 samples in today and sent them up to Kortz who should be running them over the next week so I'll have some comparative info that I'll bounce off of you to see if it jibes with your results. Also sent you an e-mail today regarding the missing shipment, let me know if you got that.
sstoffer, sorry to hear about the bad luck with the Trinity Big Boy pipe! What did you feel was the performance difference when you switched to the 2013?
Marcus, you're right the 2013's are nto the easiest thing to find right now! However Italy is now back from vacation so I should have some more available in about 2 weeks at the shops!
smb17, glad to hear that everything is good on the engine!
BermyDomRepRC, I'm assuming that's you Keenan lol! Thanks bud, the response so far has been really positive and I'm stoked! We put a lot of time into developing this engine and it's looking like it will pay off! You still in Bermuda or did you make it back home yet?
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
#275
Before I forget, congrats go out to Kortz for winning last weekends Nitro House race at Revelations running another box stock B5 engine & Werks "Race Blend" fuel in his Hyper 9! Another podium finish for the little $200 engine that can
#277
That is correct. We also took second and third with our fuel at last weekends Nordic Championship in Europe that you guys might have read about on Neo Buggy! Great results but unfortunately we did not win it like we did last year but I guess you can't win everything lol!
#279
Tech Addict
iTrader: (44)
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 607
From: NE Ohio
I thought going back to the 2013 was just overall more power. Biggest difference was on the bottom. I had clutched the car for the 2056 so it was a bit too much with the 2013 especially with the good night air we had last weekend. I will be at the RAC and I think Mo will also so it will be interesting to compare his setup to what I’m running.
#280
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,252
From: W.V.
I thought going back to the 2013 was just overall more power. Biggest difference was on the bottom. I had clutched the car for the 2056 so it was a bit too much with the 2013 especially with the good night air we had last weekend. I will be at the RAC and I think Mo will also so it will be interesting to compare his setup to what I’m running.
I just gotta get a pipe
...-DC-
#281
Tech Apprentice
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 86
Hey guys quick question regarding tuning. After mid to high speed running I come in and the idle drops low and then comes back up. Would this indicate a lean low speed setting. And when I say it drops down low I mean it's at the point of barely running for a few seconds and then it will come up to a somewhat high idle. I'm thinking lean on the low and rich on the top. What do you guys think? Thanks
#282
Tech Regular
iTrader: (15)
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 494
It may sound obvious but make sure to check that your throttle linkage is setup properly. If the return spring isn't tight enough to return it when you bring it in and hit the brake it comes to the "right" idle and when you let off it bumps the linkage just enough to give it just a tick of throttle. A quick test is when you stop it and the idle comes up hit the brakes again if you have let off and see if it returns to low idle. If it don't then try to richen the bottom a tick or check for a typical air leak, or exhaust gaskets that may be worn.
#283
2) ...
Now with the radio gear on, engine off and the slide closed look down the throat of the carb and slowly start to pull the trigger. Take note of the how much throttle you are giving at the point that the low speed needle (which is connected to the slide) comes out of the spray bar (the hollow tube) on the opposite side of the carb. We will use this as a referance for tuning later on but basically what is happening is that during the range of throttle movement that the low speed needle is embedded in the spray bar, the low speed needle will affect fuel delivery (for the purist we both know that this is a simplified explanation as the fuel first travels through the HS needle circuit before going to the LS but since we already set the HS to a rich setting and will not be touching this for a while it's pretty much a mute point). At the point that it is out of the spray bar the fuel delivery (or tune) is affected solely by the high speed needle.
Then I re-install the air filter, fire up the engine and toss it on the ground. Start slowly doing figure eights at say 3 to 4 mph until you run through the tank. Then for the next tank i fire the engine up again and back the idle screw out a couple of hours. You will immediately hear the idle speed start to reduce, to compensate for this I then lean the low speed needle a couple of hours until I again hear a smooth steady idle. Once I have this I then start doing figure eights again but now a little bit fasted until the tank is empty. Next tank fire up the engine, back idle screw out a couple of hours, lean LS needle a couple of hours, do figure eights a couple of mph faster.
Basically what I'm doing with this system is slowly reducing the amount of lubricant being pumped through the engine while at the same time slowly increasing the amount of load that is being put on the engine. This I keep on repeating until I get to approximately the point that I'm pulling the trigger far enough that I know the low speed needle is being pulled out of the spray bar (remember we checked this initially while we had the air filter off) at which point your air gap (the amount the slide is help open by the idle stop screw) will have been reduced to aprox. 1-1.5mm.
...
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
Now with the radio gear on, engine off and the slide closed look down the throat of the carb and slowly start to pull the trigger. Take note of the how much throttle you are giving at the point that the low speed needle (which is connected to the slide) comes out of the spray bar (the hollow tube) on the opposite side of the carb. We will use this as a referance for tuning later on but basically what is happening is that during the range of throttle movement that the low speed needle is embedded in the spray bar, the low speed needle will affect fuel delivery (for the purist we both know that this is a simplified explanation as the fuel first travels through the HS needle circuit before going to the LS but since we already set the HS to a rich setting and will not be touching this for a while it's pretty much a mute point). At the point that it is out of the spray bar the fuel delivery (or tune) is affected solely by the high speed needle.
Then I re-install the air filter, fire up the engine and toss it on the ground. Start slowly doing figure eights at say 3 to 4 mph until you run through the tank. Then for the next tank i fire the engine up again and back the idle screw out a couple of hours. You will immediately hear the idle speed start to reduce, to compensate for this I then lean the low speed needle a couple of hours until I again hear a smooth steady idle. Once I have this I then start doing figure eights again but now a little bit fasted until the tank is empty. Next tank fire up the engine, back idle screw out a couple of hours, lean LS needle a couple of hours, do figure eights a couple of mph faster.
Basically what I'm doing with this system is slowly reducing the amount of lubricant being pumped through the engine while at the same time slowly increasing the amount of load that is being put on the engine. This I keep on repeating until I get to approximately the point that I'm pulling the trigger far enough that I know the low speed needle is being pulled out of the spray bar (remember we checked this initially while we had the air filter off) at which point your air gap (the amount the slide is help open by the idle stop screw) will have been reduced to aprox. 1-1.5mm.
...
Hope this helps!
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing
I am on this stage in the breakin/tuning process. The bolded part is the one I am having issues with. I just don't know when I am done leaning the low speed needle and backing out the idle needle. Is there a point where the engine won't run any leaner regardless of how much air I give it or vice versa? Is that the point I am trying to get to?
The low speed needle comes out of the spray bar at full throttle when I have travel set to 55%. I am having trouble determining how this affects when I am done leaning out the low speed needle or backing out the idle screw.
Right now I have travel set to 30% so I don't push the engine too hard.
Thanks a lot.
#284
#285
Regards,
Ron Hopkins
Werks Racing



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