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Old 08-27-2009 | 12:25 PM
  #4321  
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Originally Posted by hambone
Where do i find the 2.0mm swaybar for rear of the truggy? Do i need to buy a set for the buggy or are they sold separate and i'm just not seeing it?
You want this bud - I've ordered one myself through local crack house

http://www.losi.com/Products/Feature...rodId=LOSA1751
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Old 08-27-2009 | 12:36 PM
  #4322  
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Originally Posted by shady3031
Just the man I was looking for-you must have known I was talking about you. How's it been going Jose. I haven't done much racing here lately with the new house and all, but I did manage a second overall in the rc pro midsouth open truggy class. Gonna try and make it to the snakepit sat looks like its gonna be a good crowd
Cool deal...I'll be running at the SHARC track this weekend. They have a new layout and should be pretty good.
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Old 08-27-2009 | 01:38 PM
  #4323  
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i placed a order with my LHS for a 8T 2.0. happy to join the family.

i'll be posting pics soon.
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Old 08-27-2009 | 02:08 PM
  #4324  
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I am looking forward to buying one of these next race season for a tekno conversion. This platform seems to make the best e-car. I see the main issue you guys are having is the ring and pinion gears.

Trevor Clement:
All that's needed to prevent the rear diff from going out is keep up on the basic maintenance. The plastic diff case and inserts wear as you race and develop slop so you need to check the tolerances from race to race. You also need to make sure your rear bearing is good, if it goes bad it will heat up and cause all sorts of problems.

You only want the slightest amount of play between gears, too much will cause problems. If I have a brand new truck, I will check the gears after each of the first couple races since they almost always need re-shimming after break-in. After that, I just check every 2 or 3 races.

I also use the aluminum inserts since they wont wear as quick as the plastic ones. They are extremely light and really help prevent slop due to wear.

Aluminum Rear Inserts



One last thing. If you ever do blow a rear diff, it's extremely important to replace the diff case along with the gears. When your diff gears go, they put a ton of stress and tweaking on the diff case. If you only replace the gears, you're looking for trouble.
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Old 08-27-2009 | 02:20 PM
  #4325  
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What if you haven't blown the diff yet but you get noise under braking? Replace the case or no? I also read where someone shimmed the pinion. Is there many doing this and what's the thoughts on it? Thanks.
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Old 08-27-2009 | 03:13 PM
  #4326  
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I haven't had any rear diff issues, except blowing a bearing, I replaced the bearings and put in aluminum inserts, golden since then.
I don't shim them too tight, just a little backlash, same as I did my mugen diffs.
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Old 08-27-2009 | 03:45 PM
  #4327  
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Originally Posted by Buzz3
What if you haven't blown the diff yet but you get noise under braking? Replace the case or no? I also read where someone shimmed the pinion. Is there many doing this and what's the thoughts on it? Thanks.
Thats usually a sign of the front diff going. I would replace bearings, case and gears.
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Old 08-28-2009 | 08:12 PM
  #4328  
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Default modded hubs

what up everyone. only 2 sets of losi 2.0 modded hubs left let me know if you want them thanks j-dub
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Old 08-28-2009 | 09:33 PM
  #4329  
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selling my 8ight t 2.0. anyone interested?
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Old 08-29-2009 | 12:28 AM
  #4330  
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Whats everyones opinion on cutting the windshield and hole out on the top?

Just making my decision?

The top hole seems to be for a fuel gun?

Does the Losi need the extra cooling gained by cutting out the windshield or a hole in the windshield?
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Old 08-29-2009 | 01:32 AM
  #4331  
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Originally Posted by jonoz
Whats everyones opinion on cutting the windshield and hole out on the top?

Just making my decision?

The top hole seems to be for a fuel gun?

Does the Losi need the extra cooling gained by cutting out the windshield or a hole in the windshield?
the top hole is for a fuel gun, the front window doesnt need cut except for the fuel lid puller. the new body design was so you didnt have to cut the whole
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Old 09-02-2009 | 08:22 AM
  #4332  
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Originally Posted by losi_racer
the top hole is for a fuel gun, the front window doesnt need cut except for the fuel lid puller. the new body design was so you didnt have to cut the whole
Also using the Losi fuel lid puller is great, no more opening of the tank lid when you take a hard role-over.
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Old 09-02-2009 | 10:31 AM
  #4333  
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Originally Posted by travis4380
Also using the Losi fuel lid puller is great, no more opening of the tank lid when you take a hard role-over.
Agreed. Works great.
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Old 09-02-2009 | 01:32 PM
  #4334  
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Originally Posted by travis4380
Also using the Losi fuel lid puller is great, no more opening of the tank lid when you take a hard role-over.
i never had that issue, lucky i guess cause everyone said they did. i did get the losi lid puller tho last weekend, i like it
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Old 09-02-2009 | 01:42 PM
  #4335  
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Originally Posted by travis4380
Also using the Losi fuel lid puller is great, no more opening of the tank lid when you take a hard role-over.
+1 the puller is awesome.
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