If I was in your situation I would run the 3 Port in the buggy and the 7 Port in the truggy.

For a buggy both the 3 and the 7 are great. I favour 7 Port myself. Run 1.1 springs and shoes of your choice on either of these in the buggy, maybe weaker springs on a loose dusty track, but the 7 definitly likes a later hook up so it can spool up, so 1.1 on the 7 always - IMO.

Truggy would suit the 7 Port. It has more than enough bottom for a truggy. Same 1.1 springs with alloy shoes.

The best truggy motor is the stock 5 port. Massive bottom end and great mid to top, with excellent economy. Run 2072 or 0801 pipe.

The 3 port is a nice motor, but would be more suitable for the buggy only.
It has a more linear power band and is smooth. 0801 or 2072 pipe.

The 7 Port has good bottom and incredible top end. Not quite as linear as the 3 Port. Best with 2047 pipe and 0801 header, (or any longer header with same measurements as the 0801). This set up gives a nice power band and great bottom end response. The 0801 or the 2072 pipes are also nice on the 7.
Of course all this is my opinion only. I am sure you will get some differing views, but 5 Port in truggy, 3 or 7 in buggy is a pretty well established set up for the GO engine range. We are talking stock motors here. Modded motors are a different thing all together, with the modded 5 Port being the best buggy motor of the lot (with the exception of the new and only just released MG66 I would expect) - once again IMO

good call grizz exactly what i use my buggy moded 3 port r 2072 truggy moded 7 port 0801 pipe very happy with both ... i like the feel of the 7 port in the truggy and gives excellant fuel economy to

hi guys,

I was running my 5 port last race and trying the 801 pipe. 1.1 springs with dynamite maxx life shoes. Anyways it's still running rich beacause still in the break in period. I notice this thing is just like a bullet after several more tanks. The bottom is just crazy could you suggest anything that I can do to tame the low end a bit. I want to try thr 2047 but they are hard to find (cheap prize) I like to try that combo (801 header and 2047 pipe) or even better the Grenade pipe someone post that he tred it and it works awesome too. either way this motor is great loving it everytime I use it.

thanks

hey i have a good deal on jp 4 pipe but b4 i buy it i want to know if any of u guys have used this pipe with a go tech if so how was it. i have 3 port and 7 port

You are probably just getting to the point where most of the metal pinch has gone. It will be a monster now
Couple of things to tame the beast down would be clutch and gearing.
Drop down to 1.0 springs, and maybe 2 x alloy and 1 x carbon shoe to smooth the take up a little. Maybe even change one of the 1.0 springs for a .9, but you don't want the clutch to early or it will start bogging down.
If it's really out of hand, you can also get a one tooth bigger clutch bell. This will give you a little less snap on the bottom end and a little more top end.
Programing in 10 - 15 % exponential on your controllers throttle is also another way of taming things down a little.
Try the clutch set up and the exponential first. These should be enough to get things just how you want them.

The JP pipes are "sort of ok" on the GO's. They are a bit flat, and economy is not geat. I would not really recommend them for the GO's.
Get yourself either the GO 0801 or the newer GO 2072 pipe. Either of these are very well suited to the 3 and 7 Port, so you can use them on either motor with great success.

Grizz you forgot the dynamite pipes/086-I use on the 5/7ports and the 053,have not tried but was told would give the 7 port more bottom and still maintain the ripping top.

Oops Yep, spot on Matt. The 086 is great on the 5 and 3 ports, and the 053 on the 7 gives a lovely smooth powerband. The Dynamites were the first pipes I ever used on my 5 and 7 ports when I first discovered the GO motors, and I still have pleasant memories of the performance and value they gave (lovely strong stingers too).

I'll try the clutch setup and exponential hope I can tame it more..you're right grizz the monster is showing up slowly yet surely

Thank u for some good info

Definately go to a 1.0 spring in the clutch. I install a shim under the sleeve that works awesome, basically changes the timing in the motor. It takes away some bottom and give's it more top. I run all my 5 ports this way.
I get $10.00 shipped if you want to buy a shim, or you can send it to me to change it.

Rex

is there a way to keep the case from cracking on the left motor mount post?

I'm looking for a replacement carb for my go 3 port I found these two:


http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...etor-Main-Body

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Complete-Set

I understand one comes with the needles and the boot and the other is just the housing, other than that are the exactly the same thing or is one better than the other since one looks like its half metal and half composite and the other is all comp. Are they different generation carbs if so which is which?

the complete one is the one you want.that looks like a gen 5.5. whats wrong with your carb?

make sure your engine mount is tall enough,so the bottom of the case is not rubbing or to close to the bottom of the chassis. also I use a washer and some thread locker to make sure the engine will not come loose and vibrate. which will cause the hold down mount to break.

Can anyone tell me the base needle settings on a GO 21 sport engine just got a used one and need to find a starting point.