I was thinking that may be the case as well.

I saw on A-mains reviews that Kurt Wenger says to seal around the outside of the carb and not inbetween the case/gasket/carb. So I may have to try that and see where it gets me.

I also have a small feeling it's just my lack of tuning experiance, causing me to have a hard time finding the proper starting point for this carb. As I'm reading a few other threads now with guys having all kinds of trouble with lean bogs or tuning issues.

Tower has a $30 off 249 coupon on the front page of the site. So Towers price right now is 219.99.

I had a problem going from a GRP to the Reedy as it tunes differently. My GRP's never ran more then 190, but the Reedy likes to run above 250. My pit man gave me a oh crap look when he first saw the temp. Then he gave me the confused looked when i said 265 was fine, and the motor was running great. I get tons of smoke too.

I think the only thing i am having problems with is the warmup. It is taking me seriously 4 minutes of warmup before i can put it on the track. If i go before that, it will flame out. its odd, but i can handle it.

Porter - Are you absolutely certain you don't have an air leak in the fuel lines, fuel filter, or fuel tank?

Edmond - Mine runs very rich during warm up too, but it doesn't take 4 minutes to get warm enough to make power. Maybe your LSN is too rich.

239.98 after tax and shipping... 20 off

I wish i have run my engine a bit more. I could prolly give better feedback.

i have found that if your having problem put a p4 in it
set the top and bottom and 2 and 1/2 out
and then your only a hour or two off!

Put new lines on when engine was installed. Could be a fuel tank issue, but my back up engine ran ran just fine after I decided to pull the reedy, using the same tank and lines.

Powerhouse RC makes engine warmer that runs off 110v and will warm the motor up to about 200f in about 10-15 mins. Clamp it on and come back when your up to race.

has the airleak problem been resolved i have heard that alot of people are having trouble with the sealing of the new style carby just curious as i really want one and at the price you cant go wrong.

Yup. Use a little Green Slime on both sides of the gasket between the carb and engine block, and use Loctite on the carb fixing screws.

Looks like a better design then what we have now. Hope it takes off.

I'm a fan of it. No more worries about the insulation material shattering when you remove the carb from the engine block!

Green Slime??? No gasket sealer or any other sealer?

Will have to try that out, and see where it gets me. I'm a huge fan of the design as well, just having some issues with my first go around. Hopefully I can get things worked out within the next few days.

Haven't had a leak, so far so good. I use locktight in the screws but be easy dont strip your case.