find a picco pipe

is there anywhere tricks to getting the sleve out and cant get it out to replace my con rod.

I'm naive in the nitro world, having run Rossi equipment 3 years back. I bought the Red Dot and hung my Rossi muffler and header on it, not knowing the need for a different header gasket apart from the obvious lack of groove for the flange on the gasket to ride in. Motor ran well enough in the beginning but after 3 tanks and thinking the motor is getting broken in, I found my self chasing the mix for a few more tanks in qualifying. Motor never settled down and found that the split collet that holds the carb in the crank case had loosened up and was bleeding bleeding air in as well !!

Having stripped the carb back down and found O rings from here and thereand having a friend tell me and give me a Picco exhaust gasket, I got a tune on and it ran well.

Next time out though, having not found any gaskets locally, I got some silicon hose pipe to fit.

You can guess the result: it just didn't work well with pressure dropping etc. So I gave in and have a Picco pipe and header coming from KK.Hoping this will fix the pipe/gasket /back pressure problem. I hope so, as the motor is well fast when in tune.

Probably, what I'm saying is Picco pipes for Picco motors until you're wise enough to know the fixes.

Jacko

Hey guys i was wondering if this picco pipe would work well with the Red Dot because i would like to get the picco pipe from Kamikaze but they dont except paypal

http://www.nitrohouse.com/catalog/pr...ducts_id=13004

don't waste your money on that pipe, that pipe does not work, I tried that pipe and my engine got slower, might as well use a skyline pipe if you can find 1, which is much cheaper and better than the ofna pipe, but the Picco 2651 will turn your Red dot into a missile

you will see a big difference in the pipe and also what plug are you using

the skyline work good but if you can get you hands on the picco its worth it

How is the powerband on the JLR? Is it smooth or does the mid-range hit hard?

I've got the Picco/Ofna .12 3 port motor in my NTC3 right now. It's got the same piston/sleeve as the JLR but a different crank. Mine is soft of the bottom and then hits the mid-range REALLY HARD and continues to a pretty decent top end.

My problem is the tracks I drive on are technical types for electric cars and I need a smoother powerband.

With the NTC3 you are limited in your pipe selection. I've tried the AE GT pipe, the AE double chamber, and the RD Logics double chamber turbo pipe.

I'm running the AE 3 shoe clutch with the shoes drilled some.

The motor runs great and is ballistic when it hits the powerband but I need smoother control for my tracks.

I can get the JLR crankshaft for $112 and drop it into my motor if it's worth it.

Any comments or suggestions welcome.

A lot of the engine components are set up to work in unison. Meaning the crankshaft, piston and sleeve and carb. may not generate any improvements when installed by themselves in another engine. Are you up for a $112.00 gamble?
You may be able to tap the engine power earlier using a centax clutch (or just and adjustable clutch) and different gearing in combination with one of the exhaust pipes you have.

I might as well put my .02 cents in ... I picked up a Red Dot Evo 3 from Kamikaze a couple weeks back .. ran it with my Skyline V12R pipe and header and it ran 'ok'.

Sam at Kamikaze suggested me purchasing the Picco 2651 matching pipe and header so I did and WOW. Night and day difference .. it runs much faster, much stronger and much more repsonsive!

I would STRONGLY suggest this pipe and header with the Evo 3 Red Dot.








Hope I helped shine some light on things ...

Ya, I hear you on the combination of components working together and totally agree. My motor came with the JLR piston/sleeve originally. I'm not sure if I'm up for the $112 crank gamble or not.

I'm also not so sure the pipes I have are that well suited to the Picco motor(s) but they are the only ones currently available that work on the NTC3. I'd like to get a more current belt drive chassis but I'm not ready to ante up for that just yet. I'm still trying to nail down at least 2 or 3 tracks locally that will be consistently running a 1/10th Nitro sedan class. I'm fairly new to the racing scene (~1yr now, racing both Nitro and electric) and working my way up the ladder.

What I'm trying to decide is what would be my best next step,

1. Buy a proper JLR (EDO tuned?) and keep my current motor for spare parts (mostly piston/sleeve & conrod, their value is equal to what I paid for it). Would it work with the pipes I'm restricted to?

2. Or search for a different motor that will be better suited to the NTC3 chassis, pipes, and tracks (shorter, more technical) I have to work with. If so, which motor?

In the end I'm looking for good, strong, smooth bottom to mid range power, not an outright mid to top end beast.

Slap in an OS .12 TZ, very smooth powerband, easy to handle and not a beast on top end. Also very easy to tune.

Has anyone tried a different Carb in the Evo3 Red Dot?, My carb has seperated at the sleeve (The carb body has come away from the metal sleeve that fits the engine case). I can get hold of an OS carb from a 12tz. I really dont want to purchase a new carb as the whole motor will be replaced in the near future. (By the way, this same thing also happened to my last picco red dot aswell , not very happy with the way it's manufactured, 2 plastic lugs holding the metal sleeve on the carb)

Look forward to responses

don't think the OS carb will fit. however i've tried sirio carb and it works...

also tried a nova carb but i find it's more difficult to tune correctly.
by the way, i have the IDM though but it should be same as the red dot; picco based.

This is not a uncommon problem. In our club we have had 2 motors that have had the carb problem. My motor was not that old, So I sold it for parts to other racer as he need the crank and piston. I don't think I would buy red dot again. I replaced it with a 353/09

I bought a new motor from a fellow member. I am running 20% fuel. The motor came with 4 shims in three different guages. Should I remove the thinnist one if running 20%? I recall reading that these engines are set up for 30% from the factory.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.