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Old 07-22-2009 | 03:22 PM
  #3736  
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Originally Posted by Frank L
320 is too hot for any nitro engine. Richen up the top and bottom 2-3 hours or more. A fellow racer told me a good tech. Take the long straight and run the truck all out and just at the point where it starts to have a lean high idle at the end when you get off the throttle then richen 1-2 hours and it should be perfect.

As for the front and rear ring gears they are different. You cannot swap the front and rear without changing the ring gear. They both have 43 teeth but the way they line up with the pinion gear is opposite. Same thing on the 1.0
Hey Frank! Thanks for the quick response. So in order to swap the front and rear I need to change the ring gear, good to know. As far as my motor temps I understand thats way too hot. It wasn't that the motor was too lean it was that my motor was trying way to hard to pull my truggy around the track without a rear diff lol...right?? It may be a little lean but I have an air leak so im gonna fix everything tonight and re-tune.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 03:25 PM
  #3737  
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Can I please get a part number for the speed/ninja conrod. Wanna make sure I get the right part. Thanks.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 03:36 PM
  #3738  
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Originally Posted by crazysavage
You should take the weekend off from racing, get a good set of SAE hex wrenches, get out your instruction manual and tear the truck down section by section. Learn about how the thing is put together and you will have a better understanding of how it could malfunction. Get it fixed right and pick up a few spare parts to keep with you. This preparation will result in less failures and worries and you will learn more about driving the truck in the process. All this means...MORE FUN, LESS FRUSTRATION.
Crazy I completely missed your post. I couldn't agree more, but my local track is having a Friday night event that I really want to make it too.

I believe im going to put the front diff in the rear after changing the ring gear, put the smart diff in front/center (that I already have), and rebuild my shocks.

After that race, I can take my time and do exactly what you just mentioned. Tear her down completely and learn everything. Plenty of parts came with the truck, anything I've needed I have looked for and had.

Thanks for taking the time to respond
Much appreciated
Bryce
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Old 07-22-2009 | 03:44 PM
  #3739  
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Do i need a special tool to connect the connecting rod to the head?
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Old 07-22-2009 | 04:58 PM
  #3740  
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Originally Posted by Measy
Do i need a special tool to connect the connecting rod to the head?


to the piston you mean ?

if so not really....a good set of tweezers of really sharp needle nose pliers and take the project to a place that is surgery room clean....do it on the floor on a towel cuz when those clips pop and go for a ride they are extremely difficult to find.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 05:14 PM
  #3741  
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Originally Posted by Integra
to the piston you mean ?

if so not really....a good set of tweezers of really sharp needle nose pliers and take the project to a place that is surgery room clean....do it on the floor on a towel cuz when those clips pop and go for a ride they are extremely difficult to find.


Place your hands inside a Gallon or larger zip lock bag and you will never lose another wrist pin clip! The bag will catch the clip in case of emergency!
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Old 07-22-2009 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by underway
Place your hands inside a Gallon or larger zip lock bag and you will never lose another wrist pin clip! The bag will catch the clip in case of emergency!


interesting idea.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 05:39 PM
  #3743  
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Originally Posted by Measy
Can I please get a part number for the speed/ninja conrod. Wanna make sure I get the right part. Thanks.
Ninja..
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...dproduct=10454

SPEED...
http://carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scri...idproduct=5171

Both are the same. You can save some $$ by going with the ninja one over the speed.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Integra
interesting idea.
I've lost many of clips... got that idea from a buddy years ago....IT WORKS
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Old 07-22-2009 | 06:19 PM
  #3745  
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Originally Posted by Measy
Can I please get a part number for the speed/ninja conrod. Wanna make sure I get the right part. Thanks.
the Ninja rod, MUGJX10001 @ amain hobbies for,$40.99 OS Speed, OSM23755020 @ amainhobbies.com $46.99
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Old 07-22-2009 | 06:22 PM
  #3746  
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Originally Posted by aznitronut
the Ninja rod, MUGJX10001 @ amain hobbies for,$40.99 OS Speed, OSM23755020 @ amainhobbies.com $46.99
Usually the sleeve will not get damaged, hard chrome sleeves, the piston skirts break out chunks and or the wrist pin hammers out the sleeve connection.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 06:57 PM
  #3747  
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I'm still learning but I keep reading about shimming the back diff is this too align the back drive shaft to the center diff I'm noticing some additional noise from the drive-train. Can you explain the reason and how
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Old 07-22-2009 | 07:13 PM
  #3748  
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Originally Posted by underway
Place your hands inside a Gallon or larger zip lock bag and you will never lose another wrist pin clip! The bag will catch the clip in case of emergency!
Same here.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 07:23 PM
  #3749  
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it wont be the first time i learned something new.
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Old 07-22-2009 | 11:05 PM
  #3750  
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This true?

Originally Posted by xrayeddy
The Revo is the best MT out there, no doubt about it. It handles bumps better than an anything, is light, has good power, and parts ( if you need them) are plentiful.

The Losi truggy, I'll admit is a great design, has the worst quality out of anything. It's fast, but requires a TON of maintenance. I see alot of fast guys buy new cars after only a couple races as they get real sloppy in no time. Put it this way, I bought an 8t 2.0 back in March, took it out of the box, changed the diff fluids , and put it up for sale on here. That thing had more slop in it than anything else. Screws stripped easily, and the overall quality of it was about even with an Edsel.
Losi crappy quality?
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