8T 2.0
#3421
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,835
From: Birmingham Alabama
on all four caps just drill a small hole, approx a #55 size hole or a bit larger. Clean out the cap and then glue to o-rings together and then glue them inside the cap, making sure not to block the hole. Then build your shocks with full rebound.
For me and talking with Adam it helps keep the shocks more consistent with the full rebound build. The more rebound the better on slick tracks o this works well, the higher bite the track the less rebound from what Adam told me.
I run it all the time, however I don't get the chance to hit a super high bite track often.
#3422
The upgrade stuff is tough. This is my second one this year so far. It all depends on how hard you crash and what crashes into you. The skins clean up good and it takes a lot to tear them up. I usually race 2-3x per month and they hold up for 4 months or so of that kind of abuse. Sometimes I tend to crash a lot too. I like them though. Now the starter box skin will last forever. I had one last well into 2 years with minimal signs of wear.
#3424
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 4,835
From: Birmingham Alabama
reggie, shoot me a email. the guy that does my stuff does a great job and he is cheap. His name is Chris Burling of Bmr racing products. I think for custom jobs he charges $100 for the first time fee. That includes your wrap for the body and a wing wrap to match, also includes the artwork/time to set up and work with you on the scheme. After that he has it saverd and you can get them for $20-25. I race, practice, etc a lot more than most. His material is the same high quality stuff and last a long time as well!
My email is [email protected]
My email is [email protected]
#3426
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,716
From: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
hey guys I bounced between gray and black springs today with weight and without.
in the rear I ended up with no weight gray springs 30 wt and a touch less camber around 1.5deg I did not have any whites but like Matt mentioned.
The track I ran at today had good traction when wet and as it dried out it became pretty loose. I was running vtr calibers m2. I wish I had some m3's because they would have been the ticket
in the rear I ended up with no weight gray springs 30 wt and a touch less camber around 1.5deg I did not have any whites but like Matt mentioned.
The track I ran at today had good traction when wet and as it dried out it became pretty loose. I was running vtr calibers m2. I wish I had some m3's because they would have been the ticket
#3430
Tech Master
iTrader: (5)
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,716
From: Having fun racing toy cars in beautiful AZ
I run a 3-3 block almost everywhere. Here is a clip of my truggy today with the set up we are talking about. The track was good wet and got pretty loose when it dried out
click here
click here
#3431
I run a 3-3 block almost everywhere. Here is a clip of my truggy today with the set up we are talking about. The track was good wet and got pretty loose when it dried out
click here
click here
#3433
casey when you run 3-3 on the rear do you run 1 up and .5 out of 0.
the arguement has always been that the adjustables losi braces are out and that 0's are 2.7 and .5's out are 3.25
so which ones do you run to get 3 degrees of toe in
the arguement has always been that the adjustables losi braces are out and that 0's are 2.7 and .5's out are 3.25
so which ones do you run to get 3 degrees of toe in
#3434
tix i know what your taliking about i have 0 in the back and .5 in the front i run this pretty much where ever i run




