+2

If you really need to use something, use a drop of CA tire glue.

Maybe use a little shoe goo

I used to use it on the Muggy as screws used to pull out of that all the time.
I've started using it on the 8ight on the hinge pin brace screws as found they can back out if you have some bad landings.

I only had one shock end come off, and unlike someone earlier mentioned, I actually made sure mine were screwed on as far as they could possibly go, as you can risk bending a shock shaft, as unlike in the 1.0, the pistons on the rear of the 2.0 show out the top of the cartridge if you push them fully up, and by backing off a few threads, you risk the piston ramming into the bladder and cap.

Bent a shock shaft before doing this, and haven't done so since

okey then i did not relize that , why is lock tight not good then on plastic ?

I was doing the same thing and one of my LOSI guys just grabbed a 3/32 and went in a full turn on the droop.

Never had that problem again.


+1 Jamminkrazy

first of all it wont stick right, second the chemicals used in locktite is made for a none corrosive (spelling) metal. Plastic is not strong enough to hold the lock tight. Use CA. I do on my bulk head screws.

okey will do in the future now thanks

Are you guys setting your droop by the length of the shock?

There are threadlocks that can be used in plastics as well as metal to metal.
6MIK has one in theri range and I'm sure there are others as well. However there are differences in those as well where others work like with metal ie. you can uncsrew them and then apply back where others dry out to tough stuff that messes the threads on plastics -> loctite bulk screws and change bulk every time you need to undo the screws

Yes, measure the overall shock length from the center of the stand-off to the center of the bottom screw with a set of calipers. stock setup and what most people run is 110mm front and 130mm rear.

+1 good info

Hey guys I was tearing my trug down this week getting it ready for this weekends race and I noticed the front CVD dogbone where it goes to the center diff is worn and flat where it turns the cup. I have about 4 gallons or so and I thought this was worn kinda quick. Has anyone else seen this kind of wear and also should I replace it before this weekend. I have an extra but as we no there kinda pricey and wanted to save it as long as I can. Thanks for any comments

What can I do to achieve this?

yes i would replace it. chances are the other rebuildable end is worn too this is the highest wearing part on the truck because of the hard angle

If you have atleast half of a pin leaft, I would leave it. It's very commen for them to wear on the losi because of the extreme angle that they sit at. Not a big deal as long as there is still a good bit of pin leaft.

First thing is to reduce the rear toe-in from 3.5 degrees to 3 degrees. Use the 3-3 plate in back. Makes a big difference.