i agree you should just do and learn ....i hate to give my needle settings because the will deinitely not work for some people ....if you tune your motor based on common sense and facts ...the motor will tell you what it wants ......its hard to try and not help someone with there motor .....i want eveyones grp to run as good as mine has for many gallons ....unfortunately they wont because all peoples conditions are different ....i believe if all else fails go back to stock settings ....and tune from there ...if that fails and the motor doesnt hold a tune ..then you have a problem elsewhere ...and well you know how it ends up from there

+1 fuel will make a big differance to a tune to

Sorry if I appear stupid but what do you mean +1. I agree fuel will make a big difference. The fuel I just switched to is sold and used widely at our club, AT Racing 10% Syn 5% Castor. I have just increased from 20% to 25% mitro since learning that the GRP 21 Tuned is shimmed for 30%,looking to get more bottom end. I also uped my clutch springs to 1.1mm. Yet to see if the wheelspin can be limited enough at this setting to improve lap times. If I can get it to bloody idle for more than 10 secs.

means i agree about the tuning the motors tips are helpful but learning is the key and once you have it its all good i just mentioned about the fuel as i wouldnt really run anything less than 25% nitro and that the brand makes a differance aswell.....
my grp idles for ages when its all warmed up but my mates grp doesnt idle very well at all it had a air leak the o_ring on the HSP needle was not sealing.

mate try a differant brand of fuel personly i have had bad experiance with AT but i am certainly not bragging any brand at all

Cheers for the comments, See how I go tomorrow. A more experianced hand might make the world of difference and be able to see straight away if is my tune or a prob.

I HATE FLAME OUTS AND DNF'S

is there any where to get the tcs sleeve for the carb or do you just have to buy a whole new carb? i pulled my carb out during routine maintnence and the sleeve was stuck inside the case and came off the carb ( i think i may have had the pinch bolt cranked down too tight) ANY thoughts Thanks

Got up this mornin and pulled motor back off buggy and performed air leak test. couldn't sleep. found no leak around needles but removed, inspected and greased o'rings anyway just to be sure. Did find that front bearing was passing air but sort of expected that after reading this thread. We'll see today if it's enough to muckup idle. Note I run the motor yesty arve and did not oil motor when finished so there would be very little residual oil in there to take up any seal in the bearing. Did you buy your TKO's from the US. How much of a pain was that and how long did they take

Does anyone know where u can get ceramics for the GRP 21 tuned in Australia.

Finally got mine figured out. The Dynamite 053 pipe was chocking it. Hung a
GRP pipe on it, DIALED. Everybody told me the 053 would work so maybe there
is something wrong with mine but as much as I hate tuning, I'll just trade it back in to the hobby shop and get the GRP tuned pipe for it and be done with
it.

Ok, to anyone that is interested and has read my last couple of inexperianced tuning efforts.

Got to track this mornin and club guru concluded after trying his hand at tuning that the front bearing was no good. We changed it out and it was better but not perfect. The pinch is lacking and the right tune was hard to find.

I can only suspect it was the way I run it in. I used the heat cycle meathod (5x3min at 180F using a hair dryer each time to pre heat block ) But I had probs with firing it up a couple of times with glow plug issues and motor probably done a few too many revs on the bump box not firing. When I removed the plug at this stage the fuel had aluminium dust in it. I was suspect at the time as to how much damage I was doing on the bump box not firing. I followed this with the usual rich tanks at low revs on the ground for two tanks, then bit faster for two tanks and so on until it started to loosen up. But I did these tanks for around the 3 to 4 mins as well.

In saying this I think the evidence is obvious. To start that prewarmed but cold motor so many times with the glow plug issues I had caused the most damage early on. All too rushed....................

I'll be budgeting in a new piston and sleeve and rod. I'll be running it in with 4 full tanks on the bench 2 slighlty leaner than the first. Then takin my time on the ground and usin about 2 litres at low revs then medium revs.

I have also been advised to add a shim from new and lower the compression to suit Australian conditions. And I reakon I might use my used rod to run in the new piston and sleeve and then change to the new rod. I just hope the run in doesn't stuff the new ceremic front bearing.

Leasons hard learnt.

In saying that

i order my bearings direct from tko they take around 7 days to get here ....
i love the tko bearings i have them all through my cars aswell they are cheap i thought not nearly expansive as i first thought

I had the opposite experience. The dyn 053 with a long header gave the GRP a lot more power and made it more responsive. The GRP 2053 pipe seemed choked down and less responsive, and I even added the mugen FLS long header to give the bottom end a little more punch. (the long header worked BTW)

I have GRP .28 that for the life of me I can't get the bottom to tune.

I think it is the front bearing is the problem. It leaks when you do the blow test between the inner race and the crank.

I read they all leak with the blow test, but I never experinced it with my other motors just the GRP .28's one GRP Tuned and 1 Ninja .28 grp.

I was told by a modder that he thinks the cranks are just a fuzz small??? Anyone else have this experience?

PS I just put in a new bearing and it still leaks...Have not fired it up yet though..Kind of ticked about it at the moment...

I'm having my Ninja scream with the grp-053, haven't found any good reason to change in to a different 053 model, or a 086 for thats sake.

- I truely believe many people are fooled by louder is faster.

Would you explain the blow test a bit more. Not sure I've heard of this.