No prob man that just means we agree.
Glad to see I'm not the only one doing it this way. It is kinda a hit and miss kinda thing.

RC8T stock wheels work perfect. Try them....no spacers needed and no rubbing.

Ever cracked any. I have been having a chronic AKA wheel cracking problem with my 2.0

None yet.....been running them on my RC8T-E with 6S, so its a little heavier then even the nitro setup. Truck runs great with them and even had some hard smacks into the ground over some big triples and nothing so far.

There will be no AE parts on my truck, thank you. LOL JK. But in all seriousness I am having luck with the 2mm hubs and that way I can run any wheels I like.

I ordered the Tony's Screws kit for the 2.0 and it's awesome. Comes with everything you need and the longer camber/wing bolts you need.

Also with the wing I've noticed that it works real well if you drill through the back of the hole where the bolt goes so that your lock nut gets fully threaded onto the bolt.

I have been on the phone with Mark @ AKA. They have a stonger rim coming out (something to do with the plastic they are made with). I cracked 4 rims and he sent me new rims and tires (siince there were cityblocks). I had to send the cracked rims/tires back to them. No questions asked for the new set. The new rims are in and should be shipping. I will have to pull up my email telling you how to tell the differance between the old and new. If you have a set of the old rims, boil them for 3 minutes before you mount them and you should be fine.

Two things why I changed back to stock:

1. I replaced the stock plastic spindles with the ali ones. Tried to put the hubs back on, I use Xray +2's due to less play, and they were so tight, I could hardly turn the drive shafts. Put the originals back in and they were a lot looser?????

2. I believe it has been mentioned that with the standard hexes, the car will have more traction. I have yet to verify this as I didn't have time last Sunday to try the two on the track back to back.

Is anybody else using the Xray hexes to help take some of the slop out?

I just use shims behind the hexs to keep the slop out. I only shimmed 2 of the hexs because the rest were fine. I use the +2 hubs and I have no problems with traction.

Hey guys

Well I am going to be buying a Losi 2.0 Truggy tomorrow and am wondering what I need to do such as shimming the diffs (also what is this) and other things I have to do before I get on the track... I am going to be using Proline LPR mounted Crimefighters M2 tires...

Thanks

I ran mine for 5 tanks .. before racing .. things that came off were the plastic bits on the end of the shock shafts , they seemed to be just stripped as if they was done up too tight in the factory and a plastic steering servo horn but i changed that for alloy servo arm .. then i ran it for 10 mins of practice, 28 mins of heats and 20 min final with no issues .. although i did bend a rear shock shaft but that was due to a bad landing.
Striipping down as we speak.

Any other issues guys?

Also could you guys supply some links so i buy these extras?

Also what is this diff shimming you guys are talking about?

Thanks

You can shim the diff ring and pinion gears now in the 8ight line of buggy/truggys by placing shimms on one end of the diff or the other.

Call horizon if your shock ends are stripped.

Replace your camber link and shock mount screws. They're too short and will fall out!

I think you meant this.